Front wheel drive Niva Chevrolet which is better

Finally, a free weekend and a free garage! The drives have been lying in the garage for about 3 weeks now, waiting, waiting... and kept driving and clicking... because. the garage was occupied by a broken fit (Fit was sorted out and he left))))) It was the Nivasik’s turn for an actually planned replacement of the drives because After replacing the drive springs, they began to click when driving under load.

Drives: AR731 TRIALLI and AR730 TRIALLI. I was tormented for a long time about which one to choose, I wanted there to be tripods, it seemed like they wrote that there were tripods, but when the boot blew up to check the lubrication, I was alarmed that there was CV joint grease everywhere, although the CV joint is not suitable for tripods. Pulled it out, stuck in the ring... balls... arrrr... well, there’s nothing else to do anyway, you have to put it in (((

I added lubricants and assembled everything, the anthers seemed to be not bad, with plastic protection.

Then he took off the lower ball joints and moved his fists away.

I unscrewed the fastenings of the front gearbox and the drive bolts, they came out without any problems, if you don’t unscrew the gearbox, it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to pull out the right drive. Then I unscrewed the studs, applied some sealant under the gaskets and put them back together. I screwed in long ball bolts instead of studs to make it easier to remove the drive in the future.

The problem arose only when knocking the old drive out of the bearing... well, I didn’t want to go anywhere... I even flattened the teeth on the end while I was knocking it out...

I installed the oil seals 12019142B CORTECO and I don’t really want to play with Balakovo)

I filled the oil with ZIC synthetic 75w-90 and decided to experiment with the Fenom additive, I hope it doesn’t get worse xDDD

There is a bit of oil left, so I’m wondering whether it’s worth pouring it into the box, in theory it shouldn’t eat up the synchronizers, or should I take pure GL-4.

The oil in the front gearbox was black, and there was a magnetic back on the plug. There is a similar situation in the rear axle... apparently the previous owner didn’t really bother with servicing the car (although I realized this a long time ago from the condition of the car, just another fact).

In the transfer case, the oil was clean and transparent, but it did not flow readily, I assume that the mineral water was being filled in.) All that was left was to move the oil only in the box, but it was transparent, I looked when the engine was turned on.

The next plan is to replace the IAC and TPS. because I'm tired of stalling at the entrances to traffic lights. I bought a contactless Kaluzhsky 36.3855, I felt like I was reacting faster, although most likely it was just a self-hypnosis effect xDD

IAC Start Volt VSM 01203 is the cheapest because... I think I'll take the old one apart and clean it. The removed factory sensors are still visible because years of manufacture 2005 are written)))

I drove it for a while, and it seemed like it stopped stalling and began to react more clearly. The play when starting off has become smaller and there are no clicks, it has become even more comfortable to drive the Nivasik.

After the capitalization, the transfer case began to vibrate more strongly, I think when they removed the front universal joint, they did not put it in the old position. The industrial shaft was turning in neutral and there was no vibration from the transfer case. Of course, I would like to take a new CV joint front driveshaft, it seems to be more or less protected from dirt, etc., etc., but I’d better leave the rear one on the crosspieces. But the toad presses... he says he’s coming! xDD

Today, Niva front-wheel drives use 3 main types of internal CV joints: ball, tripoid and Lebro.

Beerfield, or ball CV joints

On Niva and Chevy Niva, the manufacturer installs internal Beerfield CV joints (constant velocity joints), which consist of a drive grenade (housing) and an internal cage of a separator with balls, rotating along the grooves. Hence the most common name for Bearfields - ball CV joints. A drive shaft is installed in the inner race, which connects it to the outer drive.

For a Nivavod that periodically drives off the asphalt, the factory CV joint is one of the most problematic components of the car.

Its design disadvantages are as follows:

susceptible to loads arising during axial movement due to insufficient longitudinal travel;
subject to wear at large CV joint angles;
does not withstand large torsional moments;
as a result, it “lives” for quite a short time.

All this creates a number of problems for farmers:

a) when, when the separator is destroyed, the balls spill out, the torque stops being transmitted from the gearbox to the wheels and goes to the CV joint grenade, which means the Niva’s front-wheel drive is completely disabled if a differential lock was not installed on your car. In other words, the car simply does not move. In off-road conditions, this is, if not a dead end, then a rather difficult situation.

b) Hence the first conclusion: you need to have spare parts and accessories with you. To install a new separator instead of a damaged stock one, you need to check that the position of the balls in the grooves corresponds to the factory layout. However, separators are not sold separately, and in order to repair the CV joint this way, you still need to get a “donor” somewhere. In addition, it is almost impossible to carry out such repairs in the field; it would be easier to completely replace the grenade.

c) Hence the second conclusion: a nivavod should always have left and right inner CV joints with it

d) Replacing a boot with CV joints is also a very labor-intensive task due to the need to control the position of the balls in the grooves. Therefore, many Niva drivers generally abandon front-wheel drive on a Niva type CV joint and switch to tripoid drives.

Removal and installation of front wheel drives Chevrolet Niva

Tools:

Driver for 3/4 socket bit
Extension for socket wrench
Knob attachment 13 mm
Knob attachment 17 mm
Knob attachment 19 mm
Knob attachment 27 mm
Large flat screwdriver
Small hammer
Mounting blade
Straight box spanner 13 mm
Straight box spanner 17 mm
Rolling jack
Adjustable support

Parts and consumables:

Aerosol lubricant type WD-40
Sealant
Bearing cover gasket

Note:

We carry out the work on an inspection ditch or overpass.

1. Drain the oil from the front axle gearbox as described here.

2. Disconnect the downpipe from the exhaust manifold and exhaust gas converter as described here.

3. Move the exhaust pipe to the engine (this operation is not required to remove the left drive).

4. We disconnect the driveshaft from the front axle gearbox, as described here.

5. Disconnect the shock absorbers from the front suspension lower control arms as described here.

6. We install an adjustable stop under the front axle gearbox. We move the steering knuckle to the side.

7. Using a “13” socket, unscrew the three nuts securing the bearing cap, the inner hinge housing of the right and left drives to the front axle gear housing.

8. Using a 17mm wrench, unscrew the bolt securing the bearing cap of the inner joint housing to the front suspension cross member bracket.

9. Similarly, unscrew the bolt securing the left drive bearing cover to the cross member bracket.

10. Unscrew the four nuts securing the front axle gearbox suspension brackets.

11. We lift the gearbox with an adjustable stop until the eyes of the bearing caps come out of the crossmember brackets.

12. Remove the front wheel hub cap and unscrew the hub nut.

Helpful advice:

The hub nut is tightened to a large torque. Therefore, we recommend using a head with a strong knob.

13. Remove the nut and centering sleeve.

14. Compress the suspension spring by jacking up the lower arm. Unscrew the three nuts and remove the ball joint bolts from the lever.

15. We remove the shank of the outer hinge housing of the right drive from the hub. Move the steering knuckle to the side.

16. Using a mounting spatula, pry the bearing cover of the internal joint housing and slide the cover off the gearbox studs.

17. By rotating the bearing cap relative to the drive, we remove the shank of the internal joint housing from the gearbox.

18. The connection between the cover and the gearbox is sealed with a cardboard gasket.

19. Remove the left drive in the same way.

20. Install the drives and all removed parts in the reverse order of removal, replacing the gaskets with new ones. When tightening the wheel hub nuts, adjust the bearing play as described here.

The article is missing:

Photo of the instrument
Photos of parts and consumables
High-quality photos of repairs

Source: https://mashintop.ru/rukovodstvo_po_remontu.php?id=52;
Chevrolet niva device, operation, maintenance and repair. Publishing house "Behind the Wheel".

Instead of Beerfield - tripoids

Externally, tripoids are practically no different from ball CV joints. They are grenades with three grooves, but there is a significant design difference: instead of a separator with balls, a three-spike is installed here, on the spikes of which three rollers spin on needle bearings.

Tripoids are good because even if they break down in off-road conditions, they allow you to easily get to civilization (that is, the nearest service station).

The main disadvantage of tripoids is their small operating angles compared to CV joints. This is due to their design features. The maximum operating angle of such drives is 22 0, and the optimal one is no more than 4 0.

There is another important point: although if the optimal operating angle is exceeded, the tripoid will, of course, work, but with noticeable vibrations and jerks caused by the fact that the angular velocities of the tripoid parts will no longer coincide. And the larger the angle, the greater the discrepancy in angular velocities

As practice shows, at large angles the drive rod gets caught on the protrusions of the grenade grooves and premature wear of the needle bearing occurs, which manifests itself in significant play in the drives.

How to disable front wheel drive

There are two levers under the dashboard, one serves to change gears, and the second controls the transfer case. Below is the shutdown diagram:

To summarize, we can conclude that if this mechanism is not used, then significant disruptions will occur in the operation of the entire chassis system in the car; in order to avoid negative consequences, it is better to install this mechanism.

Front-wheel drive with Lebro CV joint

There is a third, and as practice shows, the optimal design option for an internal constant velocity joint - a CV joint of the Loebro type. They are included in the Niva front-wheel drive kit from IZH-TECHNO.

What are the features and advantages of this type of CV joint?

Firstly, due to its design, the Lebro CV joint has increased operating angles, which provides greater suspension travel with less vibration (compared to stock CV joints and tripods).

This distinguishes this type of CV joint from Tripod joints, the operating angles of which are significantly limited due to design features. At the same time, Lebro CV joints have a more reliable design compared to birfield ball CV joints.

Secondly, Lebro CV joints are reliable and durable. Niva front-wheel drive CV joints from IZH-TECHNO were tested for strength on a stand, where the wheel was preloaded in such a way as to simulate a load equivalent to the movement of a 2-ton car on asphalt. During the tests, the CV joints performed well: no crunching or breakdowns with a mileage of more than 50 thousand km!

Thirdly, they are easy to install. To replace the grenade, you only need to install the retaining ring of the inner CV joint and tighten the 6 fastening screws. The volume and duration of work is halved! Agree, for off-road conditions, where there are no conveniences for servicing the drives, this is an important factor.

To summarize the above, it should be noted that Lebro CV joints have proven themselves to be the optimal solution for Niva front-wheel drive, meeting the price-quality parameters.

Constant velocity joints (CV joints) of the Chevrolet Niva are an important part of the front-wheel drive. They are a swivel joint that transmits torque from the gearbox to the steered wheels without loss of power. In common parlance, these nodes are called "grenades". This is explained by their external similarity with the ammunition of the same name.

Removal and installation

Removal

. Place the vehicle over the inspection ditch (on a lift), apply the parking brake and perform the following operations on both sides of the vehicle:

lift the front of the car and place it on stands;
disconnect the shock absorber from the lower suspension arm;
compressing the suspension spring, disconnect the ball joint from the lower arm;
remove the wheel hub cap and unscrew the wheel hub bearing nut, and then the nuts securing the inner joint housing bearing cover;
Unscrew the bolt securing the right front axle suspension bracket;
Remove the outer and inner joints from the wheel hub and from the front axle.

Installation

The front wheel drive is carried out in the reverse order of removal. When tightening the front wheel hub bearing nuts, adjust the play in the bearings as indicated in the “Front Suspension” subsection.

Design and operating principle

To drive the front wheels, two drive shafts (half shafts) are used, on which four CV joints are installed (2 internal and 2 external).

Structurally, they consist of the following parts:

two cages (external and internal) in which grooves are made;
bearing balls;
separator.

The design is enclosed in a rubber corrugated boot, which prevents lubricant leakage and dirt from entering the bearing assembly.

The balls transmit torque between the cages and, moving along the grooves, ensure the operation of the unit when the angle between the axes of rotation changes.

For internal hinges, the bending angle can reach 30 degrees, and for external hinges, 60 degrees.

Note! In addition to driving the front wheels, CV joint gears are used in the intermediate and driveshafts of the Chevrolet Niva.

Possible malfunctions, their causes and methods of elimination

Cause of malfunction

Elimination method

Noise, knocking from the front axle when the car is moving (especially when turning)

1. Wear of parts of the external or internal hinges.

2. Deformation of the wheel drive shafts.

1. Replace worn or damaged hinges.

2. Straighten or replace the shafts.

Oil leak

1. Damage or rupture of the protective cover of the internal or external hinges.

1. Replace the grease in the joint and the protective cover. If parts are worn or damaged, replace the hinge assembly.

Prices and manufacturers

The cost of CV joints on a Chevrolet Niva depends on the manufacturer and starts from 1,250 rubles.

These parts are produced by several companies:

LADA is a Russian manufacturer that needs no introduction;
Trialli is an Italian brand that supplies parts for brakes, drive and other vehicle systems;
Pekar is a famous Russian plant that has been producing auto parts for almost 100 years;
DMZ is a Dimitrovgrad mechanical plant that produces spare parts for Russian cars;
Aurora is a Polish brand that unites spare parts manufacturers from different countries.

Manual for removing and replacing inner and outer CV joints on a Chevrolet Niva with your own hands

Detailed instructions for replacing the inner and outer CV joint boots on a Chevrolet Niva

Is it worth installing a driveshaft on CV joints on a Chevrolet Niva and how to do it yourself?

Replacing CV joints on a Chevrolet Niva video

Removing the internal grenade of a Chevrolet Niva

Replacement of the front left outer and inner CV joint at the Niva

This is Tough! Removing the right drive Chevrolet Niva. Comparison of Chevrolet Niva and NIVA 21214 in Self-repair

How to change CV joint boots on Niva yourself

CV joint disassembly reassembly Cause of crunching

Replacing external and internal CV joints: detailed video!

How to knock out an internal grenade. Do it yourself!

Internal and external CV joint. Replacing the CV joint boot (grenade) in 5 minutes. Video

HOW TO REMOVE A NON-REMOVABLE GRENADE, CV joint. SIMPLE METHOD

Removing the outer CV joint (grenade) in 3 seconds. Super puller for CV joints and axle shafts of VAZ foreign cars

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Home » Clips » Replacing CV joints on a Chevrolet Niva video www.chevrolet-perm.ru

Useful video

Watch an interesting video about disassembling a CV joint and identifying possible causes of the crunch:

The topic of the article is the outer CV joint of the Niva. It’s so simple and unpretentious, but informative)) Very often, services and manufacturers began to ask not only for something tuning, but simply for a high-quality standard. And a lot of questions are asked about front-wheel drive. I’ll try to talk separately about the anthers, inner and outer CV joints. What we supply for services, installation features, etc. The usual reminder, the CV joints of the field and the shnivy are the same. CV joint - constant velocity joint, in common parlance an external “grenade”.

Malfunctions

There are three main signs of problems in the operation of the node:

A crunching sound that occurs from the front axle, which intensifies when the steering wheel is turned to its extreme position. It occurs when constant velocity joints wear out. These parts cannot be repaired, so they should be replaced with new ones.
Vibration and noise in the area of the front axle, which occurs when the wheel drive shaft is deformed. It can only be eliminated by replacing the damaged part.
Leakage of lubricant from CV joints. The cause of the malfunction is a damaged boot, which must be replaced immediately. If this is not done in time, you will also have to change the CV joint, which quickly wears out when dirt gets in.

External CV joint Niva, history

The main difference that the owner of a Niva or Chevrolet Niva should know. CV joints come in 22 or 24 splines, for cars with and without ABS. Grenades with 22 slots were installed mainly on carburetor fields. With the transition to injection and restyling in 2008, they were no longer produced. Then there are only 24 slots. The 22 slot grenades had two serious advantages. They were smaller in diameter and, as a result, there was more “meat” on the hub. Such a breakdown as a hat breaking off on the hub almost never happened. Second point. Old fields were exported to Europe in fairly large quantities, and there they spit on AvtoTAZ and made their own spare parts. I brought grenades from Loebro, SKF, GKN-Spidan, GLO - all of these are high-class manufacturers in the field of drives and CV joints. Unfortunately, none of these companies makes CV joints for 24-spline fields. There are a lot of bright boxes on the market, but most of them are brands made only for Russia. In the future we will only talk about CV joints with 24 splines.

External CV joint Niva, manufacturer's choice

I experimented a lot on this topic. And if a worthy alternative has been found for internal factory CV joints, there is practically none for external ones. Only factory ball joint. The most important thing, as usual in Russia, is that it was truly a factory part. Contents: CV joint, boot, two “latch” type clamps, retaining ring, nut. The only difference is the presence of a reference disc on the CV joints for cars with an ABS system (anti-lock braking system). When installing, I recommend washing the CV joint from the factory seal and filling it with a better quality lubricant. I’ll immediately explain why I think this must be done. Several times I opened the drive, on new machines, at subzero temperatures. Molybdenum grease was in the form of frozen lumps. In this situation, there is no need to talk about the lubricating properties and the rolling of the machine. As a result, increased wear of expensive parts and increased fuel consumption. The services serving the fields in the north of our homeland completely confirmed my assumptions.

external CV joint, view from the drive side

In general, it remains a mystery to me why cheap lubricant is used in an expensive part? Probably, at the plant this is considered savings, or perhaps it is called the fashionable word “import substitution.” Well, if we don’t have high-quality MODERN WIDE-RANGE temperature lubricants in our country, then why waste money on the end customer’s wallet. A question without an answer. A good inexpensive lubricant for CV joints, MultiMoS2, is included in the price list. Each CV joint requires no more than 100-110 grams. You can safely install the boot that comes with the CV joint. Good quality. Just don’t put plastic protection on top, it does more harm than good. There is a separate article on the site about anthers, which talks about these nuances. (The nuance from the French language is a subtle difference).

A grenade on a car is a constant velocity joint. The knot received this name because it looks like a military knot. It can also be called CV joint. With its help, torque is transmitted from the engine to the wheel in a car at different angles of rotation of the drive wheel.

Niva Chevrolet replacement of outer CV joint

In Niva Chevrolet cars, the grenade is presented in the form of a constant angular velocity hinge. This name of this node comes from its similarity to a military node. It is also called CV joint; it transmits torque in the car, from the engine itself to the wheels, at different steering angles.

This element appeared at the time when front-wheel drive cars began to be produced, and before that, the transmission of torque to the wheels occurred through a conventional cardan. And since the joint was constantly under load, its service life was short, and this problem led to the creation of a special CV joint unit, which could transmit torque to the wheel at different angles when turning.

Types of CV joints

This element helps to transmit torque evenly, while taking into account the fact that the wheel can be at different angles relative to the car. They come in two types:

External
Domestic

These parts, like any other, wear out over time, so sooner or later the vehicle owner comes to the conclusion that they need to be replaced. Let's take a closer look at the reasons why replacing the outer CV joint on a Niva Chevrolet is necessary and why it fails.

A common reason for failure is the longer service life of the part. As a rule, replacement is required after ten thousand kilometers, but replacement may be required earlier
Driving on a broken road, sharp turns, the steering wheel is turned all the way at speed, at these moments the maximum load occurs on the CV joint
If dust, dirt, or water gets in due to wear of the rubber boot, this also provokes a breakdown earlier than stated. Therefore, you should periodically check the condition of the protection.

Replacement

To change the outer CV joint, it is necessary to remove the grenade jet; it can only be dismantled together with the axle shaft; when the procedure is completed, the following steps must be taken:

We clamp the removed unit in a vice
Removing the old boot
We knock down the CV joint with a hammer
We clean all the existing teeth on the axle gear
We install a new hinge on the axle
We put the boot on and clamp it with clamps
Putting everything in place

Quite often, Chevrolet Niva car owners resort to tuning the engine, as a result of which its power increases, thereby increasing the load on the CV joint and cardan shafts several times, and in order to avoid rapid wear of these parts, it is recommended to strengthen the shaft.

Therefore, if you know all the features of these parts, then you will always determine why one or another element failed, and you will be able to replace it at any time yourself.

expertniva.ru

What is a CV joint (grenade)

Internal grenade on Shniva

This part appeared at a time when manufacturers began producing cars with front-wheel drive. Initially, torque was transmitted to the drive wheel using a conventional cardan. At the same time, the service life of the hinge was short, since it was constantly working under load. This problem gave impetus to the invention of a special unit (CV joint), which could transmit torque to the wheels at different angles of rotation.

Bridge disconnect mechanism

Engineers specifically developed a block for this purpose that removes torque from the front drive driveshaft, thereby disabling the front axle. This unit is not installed at the factory, but if desired, you can install it yourself. This device is controlled from the cabin, thanks to levers that control the transfer case. Most drivers disable it by removing the front driveshaft, and some even remove the rear driveshaft, thereby making the Niva front-wheel drive. This method is of course not prohibited, but it can lead to failure of such elements as:

Transfer case supports
Output shaft bearing
Cardan

Therefore, it is best if you install a special block, thanks to which disconnecting and disconnecting the axles will be problem-free and thereby eliminate the occurrence of negative consequences by completely removing the front or rear cardan. This block is a clutch that connects the front cardan and gearbox in the transfer case and is controlled by levers located next to the gearbox.

CV joint on Niva Chevrolet

With its help, torque is transmitted from the engine to the drive wheels. It's mostly front-wheel drive. Due to the CV joint, torque is transmitted uniformly, taking into account the fact that the wheel is at a different angle relative to the car.

On a Chevrolet, a grenade can be:

CV joints on Chevrolet Niva: what elements are there

Uniform transmission of torque on the driving (in the case of the Chevrolet Niva, front) wheels ensures maneuverability and smooth ride. Reliability on the road is the basis of safety, so maximum attention should be paid to the condition of all components.

According to the design features, the parts are distinguished:

internal;
external.

It is worth considering that the wheel will turn smoothly and quickly if all elements in the assembly are in good condition. There are features in the design of the Chevrolet Niva that do not allow rotation to be transmitted to the wheel using a single CV joint. It is for this reason that two of these parts are always installed in the front drive.

It is also necessary to take into account that the parts experience loads of different intensity. The one located near the gearbox fails faster, since the pressure on the part is higher. It is not difficult to visually distinguish the element - the internal hinge is larger in size than the external one. The task of the second element in the pair is to transmit rotation directly to the wheel. The small dimensions are explained by the limited free space in the area of the drive wheel.

External CV joint Niva, history

External CV joint Niva, manufacturer's choice

external CV joint, view from the drive side

Gentlemen, please advise which front-wheel drive tires to take, we sell some vases and have C&Ps.