Reasons why the injection VAZ 2114 does not start » NaDomkrat

Fuel pressure control

The regulator consists of a membrane and a spring. During a malfunction, it may hang open and because of this, the fuel pressure in the system will not be enough for the engine to operate correctly and to start it, so the engine stalls when cold.

To check the functionality of the valve, it is not enough to simply remove the hose from the pump and see how strong the gasoline pressure is. Diagnostics must be carried out with a pressure gauge. There is a special connector for it on the fuel rail. We connect the device and try to start the engine. If the pressure in the system is below 3.6-4.0 atm , this is an indicator of a problem in the fuel supply system.

It is better to replace the pressure regulator in a special service, but if you want to do this process yourself, then follow the instructions:

1. Disconnect the battery terminal;
2. Remove the hose from the vacuum brake booster;
3. Drain gasoline from the system;
4. After this, start disconnecting the fuel rail from the pressure regulator.
5. Replace and install everything in place.

If all work is performed correctly, the fault in this part of the system will be eliminated.

Weak battery or oxidized terminals

The starter does not turn - this is another common problem. Its cause may be deposits or corrosion on the battery terminals or a dead battery.

Remember that the generator will not be able to charge the battery completely and from time to time it is advisable to charge it from the mains. This will help it not lose its capacity and increase its service life.

If you notice that the terminals have strange deposits on them, you should clean them and treat them with a special lubricant that will prevent a similar problem from occurring again.

INDEPENDENT DIAGNOSTICS IN THE GARAGE

If you have problems with the operation of the injection system, you should first diagnose the ECU. In this regard, the owners of the VAZ 2114 are more fortunate with the German VDO instrumentation - it has a self-diagnosis mode. On cars with a dashboard from Schetmash there is no such functionality.

VDO dashboard for VAZ 2114

Working with the self-diagnosis mode on the VDO panel is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• With the ignition off, hold the odometer button for several seconds;
• turn the ignition to position “1”, release the button;
• if the arrows start running on the display, everything is fine, press once (information message about the firmware version) and release, with a second press an error code will appear;
• You can reset the error by holding the button until “0” appears.

Injection problems that cause the car to stall can be indicated by the numbers 1 (ECU error), 14,15 (coolant sensor errors), 22, 23 (DPS errors), 33, 34 (MAF errors), 42 (ignition malfunction) , 44, 45 (lean or rich mixture). The disadvantage of self-diagnosis on the VAZ 2114 is that if there are several errors, the system sums up the codes. Thus, the number “22” may mean a TPS error or low on-board voltage and a coolant sensor error (8 + 14).

For more accurate diagnostics of the injector, you need to immediately contact a service center or purchase a diagnostic scanner (it costs about 1000 rubles).

If you have another car, you can find the problematic sensor by replacing the sensitive elements one by one with known good ones.

Bad ground on the engine

What to do if the VAZ 2114 starts and immediately stalls? It is worth checking the ground on the body and engine. The terminals there may oxidize or rust. Check their condition, if everything is normal, it is worth checking the wires for integrity.

An undercharged battery may be due to poor mass conductivity through the engine. To avoid such problems, after cleaning and checking, it is worth treating all connections with a special lubricant.

If the starter turns, but the car engine does not start

In this case, first of all you need to check whether there is a spark. You can do this as follows:

• all power wires with candlesticks must be disconnected;
• then one of the candles is unscrewed;
• neatly connects to the armored wire;
• Next, you need to place the spark plug housing on the cylinder block.

You should try to “turn” the starter - if after this a bright blue spark jumps between the central and side electrodes, then there are no problems. If there is no spark or is red, then the spark plug will need to be replaced. Even if out of 4 only one spark plug does not work well, the car will no longer start the first time.

Clogged breather

If the car starts and stalls when cold, then perhaps the reason is a clogged breather. The problem occurs due to the high mileage of the car, the use of low-quality oils, or wear of the piston group.

An engine malfunction can be diagnosed using several points:

• Increased oil consumption. It is thrown out of the engine into the intake and exhaust;
• The spark plug electrodes become oily;
• Drives oil out of the engine under the seals and gaskets.

If obvious signs of malfunction are detected, minor repairs will be required. It is necessary to remove the engine valve cover and thoroughly clean it of oil and dirt. It is also worth blowing through all the channels to clean them. Then we put everything back together.

Main reasons and methods for solving them

Healthy! Maybe you are lucky and resetting the injector errors will help. To do this, you first need to remove the negative terminal from the battery. If after 5-10 minutes the car starts as well, then this is not the problem.

Difficulty starting the engine is influenced by a number of simple reasons, which you can eliminate yourself in the garage, having a standard set of tools with you.

Starter mechanisms (brushes, bendix)

In the process of rebuilding the starter. The arrow indicates worn brushes.

• On used cars, the brushes on the starter wear out. In this case, you need to remove the cover and replace them with new ones;
• A starter that has been in use for a long time can be sorted out, cleaned all the mechanisms, washed with WD-40 and filled with new lithol, since the old one is most likely coked and formed into balls;

Fuel problems

In the process of replacing the fuel pump grid. On the right is the old one, and on the left is the new coarse mesh

Small particles of debris getting into the gas tank. This problem is treated by cleaning the fuel system and replacing the filter.

Incorrect sensor readings

Failure or incorrect signal supply from the sensors to the ECU (their diagnostics are required, and if a malfunction is detected, replacement with new ones):

1. Speed ​​sensor.
2. Crankshaft position sensor.
3. Idle speed sensor.
4. Phase sensor.

Wires, filter and spark plugs

Clogged air filter

• High-voltage wires are broken, poor contact on the tips (oxidation). During a visual inspection, it is rarely determined whether the best option is to replace it with new or known good ones. Before replacing, you can clean (blow out) the contacts on the old wires.
• The spark plugs are flooded, mechanically damaged, or the gap is set incorrectly. If necessary, the following is done: new ones are screwed in, the required gap is set, or the old ones are returned to their place.
• The air filter is clogged, causing the air supply to the engine combustion chamber to deteriorate. It is recommended to replace with a new one.

Gasoline pump

The fuel pump is located under the rear seat

The fuel pump does not provide the required pressure, which is why the injectors do not spray fuel, but simply splash it. In order to discard this option, you need to measure the fuel pressure with a pressure gauge (the nominal one should correspond to the norm of 3.2 bar).

If the result is different, the situation requires replacing the fuel pump.

Engine failure

Reduced compression in the cylinders is one of the most terrible situations for a car owner. In this case, flammable gases enter the crankcase, and new vapors do not ignite.

Preparing to measure engine compression

In this situation, replacement of the piston rings is required, and perhaps a major overhaul of the engine.

Electrical problems

If you notice that your VAZ 2114 is difficult to start, then first of all you should check the main electrical components and assemblies that affect its operation.

These include:

• starter;
• spark plug;
• throttle;
• electronic control unit.

In this case, the check should begin with the candles.

Plaque on the spark plug body

Before you begin troubleshooting, you should check the condition and charge of the battery. If it is too discharged, then this can cause poor starter performance and, as a result, difficulties when starting the engine.

If the battery is in perfect order, then you should carefully examine the spark plugs. The presence of oil, carbon deposits, or colored spots on them may indicate that they are faulty. In this case, there are two options for solving the problem - either clean the existing spark plugs (for example, calcinate them or clean them with fine sandpaper and solvent) or replace them with new ones. The last option is the most preferable, since only it will help you find out for sure whether the spark plugs are to blame for the malfunction or not.

It should be remembered that when replacing spark plugs with new ones, all 4 spark plugs should be replaced. This is done even if only one candle fails.

If upon inspection it turns out that everything is in order with the spark plugs, then you should check the high-voltage coil. This can be made easier by replacing it with a new, similar one. If the ignition coil (or rather the block) is working properly, then you should proceed to diagnosing the starter.

Starter for VAZ 2114

Checking the starter consists of carefully inspecting it and monitoring the condition of the main elements - the degree of wear of graphite brushes, brass bushings, etc. In addition, you should check the starter using a multimeter (tester), “ringing” it between one of the brushes and the armature. If the tester shows an open circuit, then there is a break in the winding and the part will have to be replaced.

Another reason why the VAZ 2114 does not start well with a cold injector may be a malfunction of the electronic control unit. Checking it at home is extremely problematic, since you will need special diagnostic equipment.

That is why you should either contact a service center to check the ECU or try replacing the unit with another one and try to start the car again. If the car starts right away, then the problem was in the block. In this case, you will have to either buy a new ECU or reflash the existing one (for this you will also need to contact a car service).

6. Crankshaft sensor malfunction

If you are looking for the answer to the question “why does the VAZ 2114 stall when cold,” then pay attention to the crankshaft sensor. It is responsible for controlling ignition and fuel, and if its operation is disrupted, then processes in the engine will occur at the wrong time. You can easily diagnose the problem thanks to the check - if there is a malfunction, it will blink or light up. To replace the sensor, it is better to contact a service center. You can do this yourself, but it is advisable to drive onto an overpass or pit for convenience.

Less commonly, the mass air flow sensor fails, which will affect engine performance.

The starter turns, but the car does not start

This is the most common situation if the passage is from a VAZ 2114. The procedure for solving it must begin with answering the question of whether there is a spark. To do this, take an assistant, unscrew one spark plug, put an armor wire on it and very carefully (avoid touching live parts, hold the insulated part of the wire) apply the spark plug to the cylinder head cover. While the assistant turns the engine, watch the behavior of the spark plug. If there is no spark, you need to look for it.

If there's no spark

The ignition module is one of the key problems of the VAZ 2114 on the injector. It breaks often and sometimes a new one comes with a defect. You can read more about checking the ignition module in other material on our website

Please note that the problem may also lie in the chip that is connected to the module. The presence of power on it must also be checked. DPKV is another reason why there may be no spark

Since this sensor monitors the firing phases of the cylinders, it is one of the key elements of the ignition system. Note that the probability of its failure is lower than that of the ignition module. It is checked by an electrician using an oscilloscope; garage methods do not provide an accurate assessment of the sensor’s condition (only replacement with a guaranteed working one)

DPCV is another reason why there may be no spark. Since this sensor monitors the firing phases of the cylinders, it is one of the key elements of the ignition system. Note that the probability of its failure is lower than that of the ignition module. It is checked by an electrician using an oscilloscope; garage methods do not provide an accurate assessment of the condition of the sensor (only replacement with a guaranteed working one).

KEY-DOP

ECU. “January” is a relatively reliable injector, but the “brains” can also malfunction from time to time. Often the problem with them is identified by a violation of the injection phases: for example, a spark is supplied only to cylinders 2 and 4, or only to cylinders 1 and 3. Sometimes the issue can be resolved by simply cleaning the contacts on the ECU chip; it is also subject to oxidation, which causes signal loss.

If there's a spark

Not often, but this problem does happen. By all indications, the car should start (gasoline splashes into the ramp, the starter turns, there is a spark), but the engine does not catch. There are also pitfalls here.

Injectors. In most cases, the problem is in them, it’s worth taking the car for diagnostics and cleaning it with ultrasound

If trouble strikes you on the road, pay attention to the candles. If the injector supplies the mixture, they must be filled with gasoline; if the spark plugs are dry, the probability of an injector malfunction is high. However, keep in mind that injectors rarely fail suddenly and all at once

As a rule, before the car stops starting, the engine should be running

However, keep in mind that injectors rarely fail suddenly and all at once. As a rule, the engine should start running before the car stops starting.

Poor quality gasoline. It is assumed that a serviceable engine should start almost on water, unless it’s bad

work. In reality this is nonsense. There are enough examples of “dead” engines after refueling (both at “Uncle Ashot” and at completely official gas stations of well-known brands). Keep this in mind. If the car stops gripping immediately or a short time after refueling, you should not discount this option. The solution is to drain the gasoline and add another.

The VAZ 2115 does not start well when hot.

Lack of required pressure in the ramp. Here we return to problems with the fuel system. Perhaps the problem is the pump or problems with the TPS (unlikely). If you have January 7.2, the cause may be a malfunction of the mass air flow sensor. Unlike January 5.1, here this sensor is polled at startup and, if there is an error, the ECU may prevent the engine from starting.

Finally, we note that the reasons for non-starting in the presence of gasoline and spark may include the following:

• the phases are incorrectly set when replacing the timing belt, as well as its breakage or rotation - it’s worth checking;
• due to overheating, the cylinder head “started”;
• uneven compression in the cylinders, “stacking” of the rings.

Engine starting

There are several fairly simple rules, following which you can relatively easily start your car engine in cold weather.
Before starting, you should, as they say, wake up the battery. To do this, just turn on the headlights on high beam for just a few minutes. Then, turning on the ignition, you need to wait 10-15 seconds. During this time, the fuel pump will have time to pump fuel into the injection engine. After this, they press the clutch - the starter turns a certain number of parts, and this action will reduce their number and reduce energy consumption.

How to properly start a car in cold weather?

There is an opinion that 8-valve engines, which are installed on 99% of cars of the SAMARA and SAMARA-2 family, start better in cold weather than 16-valve ones. I haven’t delved into what this is connected with, but if it’s true, then we have a better chance!

So, to start a car in cold weather you need to follow a certain algorithm:

1. We get into the car, without turning on any power consumers, and turn the key into the ignition.
2. We wait until the fuel pump pumps fuel and the IAC returns to its initial position (5-10 seconds).
3. Next, turn on the high beam headlights for 10-15 seconds. At this moment, chemical processes will begin to occur in the battery, which will heat up and increase the current output.
4. Be sure to press the clutch.
5. We try to start the engine, turn the starter for no more than 7 seconds. (Personally, my car almost always started on the first try, but the starter had to be turned for up to 5 seconds).
6. If the car does not start, wait 2-3 minutes, otherwise the battery will not be enough for the second and third attempts to start the engine.
7. We start the engine and turn it for no more than 7 seconds. Repeat again after 1-2 minutes.
8. If you feel that the engine is almost starting, but you have been turning the starter for a very long time, then try pressing the gas pedal.
9. If after 2-3 attempts the car does not start, then either your car is faulty or you have filled the spark plugs. The candles are flooded, what should I do?
10. After starting the engine, do not rush to release the clutch, let the engine warm up a little. When you release the clutch, be prepared that your car may move away (even if it is in neutral).

Important: If your battery is dead, try lighting it from another car. “How to light a battery?” Even if a lighted car does not start, there is one last option: push and

To increase the current output from the battery, during severe frosts and long-term parking (overnight), it is recommended to remove and bring the battery home.

Cold weather that comes on, especially suddenly, creates problems for car owners, so many of them will be interested in learning how to start a VAZ 2114 and 2115 in cold weather. Experienced drivers begin to prepare themselves for the coming of winter in advance, and do not forget about their car. Properly prepared and maintained, it will not create problems in winter, otherwise you will have to look for a way out of this situation more than once.

The timing marks are off

Another problem that the engine on a VAZ 2114 is difficult to start can be a skipped timing belt. This happens when there is poor tension or excessive wear. A discrepancy of more than two teeth will be significantly noticeable in the operation of the motor.

To check the mechanism, it is enough to remove the timing belt protective cover. Afterwards we mark it and check it.

If a discrepancy is found, repairs will have to be made. It is better to contact a good service station with this problem.

When faced with the problem of poor cold starting with a VAZ 2114, you should not hope that normal warming up of the engine will help fix it. Cars of this brand are quite simple, and if any problem arises, it should be looked for in the mechanics, since there are not many electronic systems here.

Nothing happens when I turn the key

On a VAZ 2114 , this usually indicates a violation in the ignition switch-starter line, however, one of the reasons for the breakdown “for blondes” is a dead battery, remember this (checked with a voltmeter: there will be more than two 11.8 V - and a hydrometer, if the battery is serviceable: two or more than 1.22 in each jar).

The VAZ 2114 injector does not start well.

Let's move on. The cause of this malfunction may be a breakdown of the ignition switch cylinder, but the injector has nothing to do with it. If, when turning the key, new sensations arise (something catches, turning has become easier, as it is also called, on the contrary, more difficult), this is the problem.

Under the panel, approximately above the clutch, there are two relays: ignition switch and starter release. The reason you will like the malfunction of one book among them. They are checked according to the manual by a good electrician, in other words, by replacing it with a known working one.

Fuel system

If it is below -20 degrees outside the window, it is possible that condensation has formed in the tank. The presence of water in gasoline is a bad sign. Moreover, it is not necessary that it be “diluted” at the gas stations themselves. Due to the temperature difference, condensation forms on the walls of the tank. At low temperatures it freezes. As a result, the VAZ-2115 (injector, 8 valves) does not start. Frozen water can be both in the fuel lines and in the filter itself. There is no point in trying to turn the starter with the hope that the car is about to start. You'll just drain the battery. The only solution to the problem is to warm up the car. It's better if it's in a garage with this problem. By installing an oil or induction heater there, you will quickly warm up the air temperature in the room. And the car will start successfully.