VAZ 2114 no spark injector reasons video

• Failures in the fuel system
• No ignition when turning the key
• No spark at the spark plug
• There is a spark, but the engine does not start
• Useful tips
• Useful video

A car that cannot be started is completely useless, since it cannot fulfill its main task of transporting people and luggage. For example, there are many reasons why the VAZ-2114 does not start, and all of them require a thoughtful approach and experience in repairs.

VAZ 2114 will not start

Failures in the fuel system

It’s worth noting right away that there is no point in considering major engine breakdowns, since the average driver will neither be able to diagnose nor repair them, so you should pay attention not to those faults that can be eliminated with your own hands or in a short time.

For example, if a VAZ-2114 does not start, it is worth checking its fuel system, and first of all, you need to take care of the following aspects:

• presence of fuel in the gas tank (the sensor may be wrong);
• the integrity of the gas pipelines running along the bottom of the car from the tank to the engine;
• serviceability of the coarse filter in the fuel tank;
• the serviceability of the fine filter in the tank below, near the spare wheel.

Controller and fuel pump relay VAZ 2114

Of course, both the fuel pump itself and its relay can fail, which can partly be attributed to the car’s electrical network. You can determine the breakdown yourself by listening after turning the key in the ignition to the characteristic sound of fuel pumping - if there is none, the pump, relay or wiring is faulty.

Additionally, according to the instructions, you can connect a pressure gauge to the fuel network, measuring the fuel pressure in it: a reading below two and a half atmospheres will indicate an unlikely leak. In such a case, you will need to look for leaks in the tank and gas lines - for this it is better to drive the car into a pit.

Gasoline pump VAZ 2114

Unlike the coarse filter, the mesh in the tank under the bottom of the VAZ-2114 may well become clogged and littered, so it is worth checking it first if other faults are excluded.

INDEPENDENT DIAGNOSTICS IN THE GARAGE

If you have problems with the operation of the injection system, you should first diagnose the ECU. In this regard, the owners of the VAZ 2114 are more fortunate with the German VDO instrumentation - it has a self-diagnosis mode. On cars with a dashboard from Schetmash there is no such functionality.

VDO dashboard for VAZ 2114

Working with the self-diagnosis mode on the VDO panel is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• With the ignition off, hold the odometer button for several seconds;
• turn the ignition to position “1”, release the button;
• if the arrows start running on the display, everything is fine, press once (information message about the firmware version) and release, with a second press an error code will appear;
• You can reset the error by holding the button until “0” appears.

Injection problems that cause the car to stall can be indicated by the numbers 1 (ECU error), 14,15 (coolant sensor errors), 22, 23 (DPS errors), 33, 34 (MAF errors), 42 (ignition malfunction) , 44, 45 (lean or rich mixture). The disadvantage of self-diagnosis on the VAZ 2114 is that if there are several errors, the system sums up the codes. Thus, the number “22” may mean a TPS error or low on-board voltage and a coolant sensor error (8 + 14).

For more accurate diagnostics of the injector, you need to immediately contact a service center or purchase a diagnostic scanner (it costs about 1000 rubles).

If you have another car, you can find the problematic sensor by replacing the sensitive elements one by one with known good ones.

No ignition when turning the key

The second broad area of ​​searching for the problem is the electrical system of the car, due to a malfunction in one of the components of which the VAZ-2114 does not start and does not respond at all to turning the key in the ignition switch. To begin with, just in case, it’s worth checking the functionality of the battery under the hood: many drivers, when starting a deep search for a breakdown, forget about such a banal reason for the lack of current.

You must carefully and calmly make sure that the ignition switch itself turns smoothly, without encountering obstacles or jamming, which in theory could lead to an unsuccessful engine start

VAZ 2114 battery

Next, you should turn your attention to more specific components and assemblies, checking their serviceability one by one:

1. Check the instructions for two relays - the starter and the ignition switch, which are located above the clutch pedal. You can evaluate their performance using the car manual, but usually they are simply replaced with ones that are known to be good for diagnostic purposes.
2. A faulty starter, or more precisely, a solenoid relay: if it breaks down on the road, you can try tapping it lightly if it just jams. Having reached the overpass, you need to turn it manually - connect the body to zero on the battery, and the other contact to positive.
3. If the starter actively begins to turn, the problem is not with it; if there is a current supply, but it does not turn, the brushes are broken. Lack of response will indicate a malfunction of the retractor relay, and a sharp and unpleasant sound will indicate a breakdown of the overrunning clutch in the starter.

Starter VAZ 2114

The connection of the contacts itself also requires study, since it is likely that they have broken or oxidized due to moisture - they will need to be cleaned or re-twisted, and then insulated.

Checking the ignition elements

After the coil, the switch is first checked, which is responsible for converting the voltage entering it. It is worth noting that you cannot check the device with a multimeter. In this case, you need to resort to the option of test replacing the old switch with a new one.

In such a case, drivers are advised to regularly carry a spare switch with them, which can be purchased at any store that sells car parts. When conducting a test check, you will be able to find out whether the reason is in this element or not. If, after installing the spare element, a spark appears during ignition, it means that the fault was still in the switch. If not, the check is carried out further.

The next element to check is the Hall sensor. In this case, it is also necessary to resort to replacing the old element with a new one. The replacement process will be a little more complicated, because for this you will have to disassemble the distributor.

If the Hall sensor turns out to be serviceable, the next in line is the ignition switch. In this case, you can resort to using a 20 V multimeter. The device has several probes, one of which must be connected to the terminal, and the second to ground.

A fault in the circuit will be detected if the device shows a voltage significantly less than 12 V. In this case, it is worth inspecting for a faulty wire or fuse. If the multimeter produces 12 V or more, it means that the circuit is working normally and no damage has been detected. The following system elements must be checked.

No spark at the spark plug

Just among all the reasons that the VAZ-2114 turns over but does not start, most often motorists are faced with the absence of a spark at the spark plug. You can check this this way: by unscrewing one spark plug, connect it to a high-voltage wire and carefully, touching only the insulated parts, apply it to the cylinder head cover. At the same time, a second person must turn the starter from the passenger compartment, and if there is no spark, we need to look for the problem.

Difference between new and old candle

If the VAZ-2114 injector does not start, you need to pay attention, firstly, to the ignition module and the chip that is connected to it - these components not only often break, but also often come from the factory defective.

The condition of the crankshaft position sensor should be assessed: by monitoring the phases of movement of the cylinders in the block, it is an important component of the entire ignition system.

Although this sensor does not break down very often, it is necessary to check it, although in the absence of service it is practically impossible to do this - a professional oscilloscope is required.

Finally, a unit such as the electronic control unit of the injector could fail: electronic brains tend to fail on more expensive cars, so it is necessary to organize basic diagnostics for them:

• apply a spark to the first and third or second and fourth cylinders;
• recognize injection phase irregularities;
• As a preventative measure, clean the contacts on the electronic control unit from oxidation.

The starter spins at idle

Posted 11 June 2010 — 15:28 #1

messages:

48 Thanked: 5

• City: Kazan.
• Car: Mazda 3 Sport Black HB

I go out in the morning and try to start the car: there is a grinding noise and the starter starts to idle. You do this a couple of times, and finally the starter starts to turn the engine, after which it starts with half a kick.

Has anyone encountered this? Is the relay messing with your brain? Maybe the contacts have oxidized? where are these contacts located? which side is the starter? how to get to it?

messages:

913 Thanked: 500

• City: Ryazan
• Car: Mazda 3, 1.6 AT2007, Rover SD1, V8, 3500, 1982.

Posted June 11, 2010 — 21:59 #3

I'll object now

I go out in the morning and try to start the car: there is a grinding noise and the starter starts to idle. You do this a couple of times, and finally the starter starts to turn the engine, after which it starts with half a kick.

Has anyone encountered this? Is the relay messing with your brain? Maybe the contacts have oxidized? where are these contacts located? which side is the starter? how to get to it?

Mileage 850002007gv Mazda 3 sport 2.0MT

It was so. I bought a new Bendix - it’s gone!)))) The new Bendix is ​​there, the starter is working))) But it’s definitely a Bendix.

Posted June 11, 2010 — 10:57 pm #4

Perhaps you have the following.

The engine, after it is turned off, usually stops in the same position (I mean the position of the flywheel teeth and the place where the starter is installed), as a result, in this place the flywheel crown wears out more strongly, the starter simply breaks this place. You can check this easily. you catch the moment when the starter turns to idle, turn on the speed and push the car a little so that the engine turns over a little, if after that the starter immediately grabs, then we have the malfunction described above. Repair - replacement of the crown or flywheel (if they are not collapsible). This malfunction usually occurs due to serious mileage or manufacturing defects.

Another option is that the “retractor” is not working well, does not completely move the starter rotor to the flywheel - just dirt and rust - can be treated by removing and cleaning.

Good luck on the ZUB roads.

Posted 15 June 2010 - 14:26 #5

messages:

359 Thanked: 148

• Moscow city
• Car: Toyota Camry R4

Perhaps you have the following.

The engine, after it is turned off, usually stops in the same position (I mean the position of the flywheel teeth and the place where the starter is installed), as a result, in this place the flywheel crown wears out more strongly, the starter simply breaks this place.

Don't tell me, the author has a problem with the bendix or the solenoid relay)

There is a spark, but the engine does not start

If the starter turns, there is fuel in the tank, the pump delivers it, and the spark plug gives a spark - but the engine still does not start - you will have to turn to more specific units, since this situation is uncommon in the practice of owning a VAZ-2114.

First, you will need to check the injectors: this cannot be done in a garage; you will need to tow the car to a repair shop and clean them with ultrasound. If there is a breakdown on the road, you can easily diagnose faulty injectors - if the spark plugs are dry and not filled with gasoline, it means the injectors are not supplying fuel.

Another thing is that something incredible must happen for them to break in all four cylinders at the same time, and before that they did not force the engine to triple for some time.

Checking the injectors of the VAZ 2114

Even less common are problems with insufficient pressure in the fuel system, caused by failures in various electronic sensors of injection VAZs. In addition to the pump, for some reason the throttle position sensor or mass air flow sensor may fail. The electronic injector control unit will simply not allow the engine to start if at least one of the sensors gives it an error when accessed.

Why does the MH fail?

The cause of failure of the ignition module is aging and insulation breakdown. Most often, the MZ fails along a vein of broken high-voltage wires, which causes a spark from the module to hit the housing, thereby exposing it to excessive currents.

Old spark plugs have high resistance due to carbon deposits, which can cause a breakdown in the housing, which leads to failure of the ignition module.

You should change spark plugs every 30-40 thousand kilometers, and also inspect high-voltage wires for breakdown.

Useful tips

Additionally, experts advise turning your attention, when all other options have already been excluded, to the timing belt - when replacing it, the technicians could have set the phases incorrectly.

In addition, a banal belt break or excessive rotation is likely.

Very exceptional situations include a skewed cylinder head (for example, due to overheating), impaired compression in the cylinders and misaligned rings.

Gasoline for VAZ 2114

One should not discount such a banal reason as low-quality fuel: in places far from cities, where there is nothing to choose from, cunning entrepreneurs can pour in a completely indecent mixture.

The engine will not start immediately from such gasoline, which will serve as an additional diagnostic sign, and there can only be one solution - drain the low-quality fuel and fill it with normal gasoline. In such situations, however, there is nowhere to take it from, so you will have to rely on a tow truck or compassionate motorists who will stop to help.

Reason one - spark plugs

I wrote in detail about how to determine faults in car systems using spark plugs
here .
I recommend reading it - it turned out to be useful, judging by your reviews, thank you.

We unscrew the spark plugs one at a time and look at their insulator. If it is covered with dense carbon deposits, then it is difficult for a spark to penetrate it. The current seeks the path with the least resistance, so the spark will not be between the electrodes, but will “go” along the insulator to the side. Its energy will not be enough to set fire to the air-fuel mixture. This cylinder will not work.

Heavy carbon deposits on the spark plug electrodes may cause the engine to trip.

We inspect the external condition of the spark plug insulator. If there are microcracks, then part of the current will not be converted into a discharge, but will escape through these damages. You need to look at the internal insulator, which is screwed into the cylinder head, and at the external one, onto which the armor wire cap is placed.

Any chips or damage can lead to poor sparking or its complete absence.

A superficial breakdown of the spark plug insulator is one of the reasons why the engine began to fail. A large or small gap between the electrodes. Many people have heard or know that for certain engines, ignition systems and types of fuel used, spark plugs with a certain gap are required. Usually its value is indicated by the manufacturer of engines and cars.

In order for the spark plug to work well and the engine not to stall, a certain gap between its electrodes is needed

Why does the starter spin but the car won't start?

For a successful start, a fuel supply with operating pressure, air and a timely spark are required.

It is also extremely important to prepare the correct fuel-air mixture. These conditions need to be checked first when the engine refuses to start.

Burnt contact of the starter solenoid relay VAZ 2110

Difficulties with starting or its impossibility can arise for a variety of reasons. The culprits should be looked for in the following devices:

1. Fuel system malfunctions for all types of engines;
2. Problems in the electrical equipment of the machine.

It should also be taken into account that starting the engine in cold weather is significantly different from carrying out this operation at above-zero temperatures. We will not touch upon problems with the battery and starter; we will assume that everything is in order with them, so we will focus only on the problems of the power unit.