Replacing the rear spar of VAZ 2105/07 cars

Spars on VAZ “classic” cars, i.e. VAZ from the first to the seventh models have the same design. The weak points of these side members are the mounting points for the steering mechanism, cross beam, stabilizer bar mounting and on the right side of the pendulum mounting. By design, these places cannot be called weak, since it is in these fastening points inside the spar that amplifiers are installed, but they also do not withstand our road conditions and the service life of these vehicles.

Since the beginning of this spring, several cars have already been received for repair of side members at the place where the beam is attached and the steering mechanism is attached. Basically, cracks on the side members are discovered by technicians when diagnosing the chassis and refuse to adjust the wheel alignment angles until these defects are eliminated. The main cause of cracks is loose fastenings, road conditions, and, as they say, metal fatigue.

Most often, the rigidity of the steering mechanism fastening on the left front spar is broken and a crack appears in the area of the lower mounting bolt, resulting in a backlash of the body relative to the spar, which significantly affects the violation of wheel toe adjustment. In the initial stage, there may not be a crack, but play has already appeared, this indicates that there is a crack on the amplifier, inside the spar. All this means that this defect cannot be eliminated by simple welding on the outside of the spar, and it is impossible to weld along the mounting plane, since the correct installation of the steering mechanism will be disrupted.

In this situation, an operation is required to penetrate the internal cavity of the spar, the procedure for which we will familiarize ourselves with.

The internal steering gear mounting reinforcements can be accessed from the mudguard side; in this case, you need to remove the left front wheel and unscrew the lower steering gear mounting bolt without completely disconnecting it.

We drill out several welding points (the number of points depends on the required size of the window, in our case there are 4 of them) and cut them out with a grinder as shown in Figure 1. We cut them down along the edge. As can be seen in Figure 2, a second layer has appeared - this is an amplifier, which also needs to be removed.

Around the hole you can see three points that also need to be drilled - this is the fastening of the spacer sleeve to the inside of the amplifier and then open it. In this case, the spacer sleeve no longer held on the inner wall of the spar and was removed along with the amplifier plate, as we see in Figure 3.

And here is a crack that definitely had to be there and it is located on the amplifier, as a result of which the spacer sleeve broke off during welding at three points. Next, you need to weld everything and install the reinforcing lining of your design.

In order to accurately install the spacer sleeve, we tighten it with the same fastening bolt, only with a nut on the side of the steering mechanism, which is in its place and does not interfere with the repair of the spar. We weld the bushing with three points.

Next, remove the bolt and weld the window with the same overlays and through the drilled holes.

All that remains is to treat the welding areas with anti-corrosion materials, install the lower steering gear mounting bolt, install the front left wheel and the repair is complete.

In this case, the destruction of the spar was at the initial stage, so the window had to be cut to a minimum size and only one bolt was unscrewed. As they say, any treatment is always easier to carry out at the initial stage, and the result is always better.

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VAZ 2105 (Zhiguli)

A selection of body dimensions, data on body geometry and control points of the VAZ 2105 (Zhiguli) from factory documentation.

A significant part of body repair work is carried out on damaged vehicles, which in most cases require checking the geometry of the attachment points of components and assemblies of the chassis of the VAZ 2105 (Zhiguli) car.

0 – baseline; 1 – upper radiator mount; 2 – fastening the steering gear housing and the pendulum lever; 3 – axis of the brake and clutch pedals; 4 – center of the steering mechanism; 5 – center of the wheel; 6 – mounting of rear suspension shock absorbers; 7 – center of the rear technological hole of the central reinforcement of the trunk floor; 8 – rear mounting of the gas exhaust muffler; 9 – front muffler mount; 10 – fastening of the transverse rod of the rear suspension; 11 – rear wheel axle; 12 – axes of bolts for fastening the upper longitudinal rods of the rear suspension; 13 – axes of bolts fastening the lower longitudinal rods to the body brackets; 14 – fastening of brackets for lower longitudinal rods; 15 – center of the rear technological hole of the front spar; 16 – center of the technological hole of the front spar; 17 – center of the wheel; 18 – attachment points for the front suspension cross member; 19 – mounting of the anti-roll bar; 20 – lower radiator mount; 21 – car axle; 22 – upper radiator mount; 23 – front wheel axle; 24 – rear engine mount mount; 25 – fastening of the cardan shaft support; 26 – mounting of rear suspension shock absorbers

0 – reference line; 1 – intersection of the axes of the front anti-roll bar mounting bolts with the surfaces of the side members; 2 – center of the axes of the lower bolts securing the steering gear housing and the pendulum arm bracket; 3 – intersection of the centers of the front technological holes of the front floor with the surfaces of the side members; 4 – intersection of the rear technological holes of the front floor side members with the surfaces of the side members; 5 – center of the axes of the bolts for fastening the lower longitudinal rods; 6 – center of the mounting axes of the upper longitudinal rods; 7 – intersection of the axis of the crossbar mounting bolt with the body bracket; 8 – intersection of the center of the rear technological hole of the central reinforcement of the rear floor with the surface of the amplifier; 9 – center of the axles of the front anti-roll bar mounting bolts; 10 – intersection of the centers of the axes of the lower mounting bolts of the steering gear housing and the pendulum arm bracket with the surfaces of the side member mudguards; 11 – centers of the front technological holes of the front floor side members; 12 – centers of the rear technological holes of the front floor side members; 13 – intersection of the axes of the bolts for fastening the lower longitudinal rods with the outer surfaces of the body brackets; 14 – intersection of the axes of the bolts for fastening the upper longitudinal rods with the outer surfaces of the middle side members; 15 – intersection of the axis of the bolt securing the transverse rod with the body bracket; 16 – center of the rear technological hole of the central reinforcement of the rear floor; 17 – longitudinal axis of the car

Damage to the body can be very different. Therefore, the repair rules in each individual case must be their own, most suitable for these damages.

In almost all cases of damage, it is necessary to remove some parts in order to detect damage, straighten and align the frame. In cases of severe damage, remove all easily removable interior upholstery parts to facilitate measurement, control and installation of hydraulic or screw jacks to correct distortions and deflections.

By editing it is necessary to restore the original linear dimensions of the body frame.

The diagonal dimensions of window openings should be 1375±4 mm for the wind window, and 1322 4 (1322–2) mm for the rear window. The distances between the flanges of the window openings along the axis of the car must be equal to 537 3 mm for the wind window and 509 3 mm for the rear window.

The difference in the diagonal dimensions of the wind window opening, as well as the openings of the rear window, hood, and trunk lid of one body must not exceed 2 mm.

Most often, when repairing the frame, replacement of the fenders, roof panels, front and rear panels is required. Methods for replacing and repairing these parts can be used as a basis for repairing other frame parts. It is also necessary to know the location of the welds.

Correct replacement of the VAZ 2107 spar

This is the spar

The VAZ 2107 spar has problems:

with a place for fixing the steering mechanism,
with cross beam,
with stabilizer bar mounts.

Amplifiers are installed in the above locations. But they are not able to withstand the load created by existing road surfaces and work out the entire service life characteristic of a given vehicle. Auto mechanics often discover cracks in the side members when repairing the chassis. In this case, the wheel mounting angles are not adjusted until the specified defect is eliminated. The main reasons for the appearance of cracks are weak fastening, poor road conditions and “fatigue” of the metal used.

Replacing the front spar on a classic with your own hands

The story of this repair is simple, a young guy - an old car and, as a result, driving fast over uneven surfaces, the old and weak spar could not stand it, the studs came out, the beam broke. But we drove to the last, and the fender liner also suffered.

Basic work when repairing a part

If the rigidity of the steering system fixation is violated, a crack will form in the area of the lower fixation bolt on the left front side member. As a result, there is a backlash in the body in relation to this design, which has a negative effect on wheel toe adjustments. If there is no crack, but play has appeared, then we can talk about the presence of a defect on the amplifier, inside the VAZ 2107 spar. It is impossible to fix the problem using conventional welding. It is forbidden to weld along the fixation plane, as the correct installation of the steering mechanism will be disrupted.

Auto mechanics recommend getting to the inner plane of the VAZ 2107 spar. To do this, you will need the following tools: keys, welding, grinder, screwdriver, pencil, ruler. You can approach the mechanism from the side of the mudguard. First, the front left wheel is dismantled by unscrewing the lower bolt securing the steering mechanism.

Further repairs involve drilling out several welding points. The exact quantity depends on the parameters of the window that is cut using a grinder. The amplifier is removed in the same way.

3 points appear around the hole and are drilled. With their help, the spacer sleeve of the amplifier is attached. Often this element no longer adheres to the inner wall of the VAZ 2107 side member, so it is removed along with the amplifier plate.

Now you can see the crack that has appeared on the amplifier itself. This defect can be eliminated by welding and installing a reinforcing lining. The same mounting bolt is used to install the spacer sleeve. In this case, the nut is screwed on from the side of the steering mechanism, which is in its place (it should not interfere with repair work on the VAZ spar). The bushing is welded with 3 points. After removing the bolt, the window is welded using the same pads. All welding points are treated with special anti-corrosion materials.

The final stage is the installation of the lower bolt for fixing the steering mechanism and installation of the wheel. It is easier to repair the spar at the initial stage of problems, since you will need to cut the window to a minimum size and unscrew only 1 bolt.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the spar

The reason for replacing the side member often lies in fast driving on uneven roads. At the same time, the studs and beam fail. In this situation, you will need to disassemble the suspension and release its fastenings. Replacing the front spar is carried out without removing the engine from the car, but after dismantling the oil filter and exhaust system pants. To do this, you will need the following equipment: keys, screwdrivers, grinder, pencil, screwdriver, welding.

The suspension on the right is disassembled.
The anti-roll bar is removed.
The axis of the lower arm is knocked off the beam on the left (the supports should remain in place).
The damaged part of the old spar is drilled out or cut off.

Upon completion of the dismantling work, the splash guard is welded. The new spar is cut to the required length. It is recommended to cook with an overlap. The welds will be visible, but the resulting structure will be very strong and reliable. This is explained by welding work through the holes made and at the junction of the old and new unit of this type. The formed joints are cleaned and welded.

When fitting a new spar, special attention should be paid to matching the hole for the bolt that secures the beam on top. This bolt acts as a guide for correct installation of the spar back and forth. Otherwise, the location of this unit is determined by other methods, taking into account body dimensions.

After accurately aligning the VAZ 2107 spar using the holes made, this element is welded to the mudguard. It is recommended to apply a 10 cm wide metal strip to the welded joint; this will significantly strengthen the seam.

Hello! The next post on my blog will be about replacing the front side member on a classic VAZ, since this problem can befall both an old, tired car and a fairly fresh one.

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Crack on the front side member of a VAZ

In practice, there are three most common problems with the front spar:

Corrosion, the spar rots, and accordingly the front part of the body in the suspension area loses rigidity, a beam or anti-roll bar may fall off
The second option is when the spar does not seem to have holes, but the studs that secure the beam to the spar have broken out.
The third problem is the fatigue of the spar at the place where the steering column is attached; when the steering wheel wobbles, the column body moves.

There are two options, but there is only one solution - replacing the VAZ front spar with your own hands . Practice has proven that it is not necessary to replace the entire spar; it is enough to replace most of it; if, for example, a beam has broken out of the spar, then it is enough to replace the front part of the spar, 10–20 cm long, by the beam mounting studs.

This replacement option is less problematic and suitable for the average user; it gives fewer problems, since when replacing an entire spar, you will need to remove the interior carpet and weld the spar from below, at the junction with the whip. And it’s not particularly convenient to work there, I’ve already replaced more than 10 side members in parts - no problems have arisen with any car, the main reason for asking for a side member replacement is that the studs that secure the beam have broken out.

If you have a problem in the place of the spar where the steering column is attached, then a complete replacement cannot be avoided. When replacing the spar for this reason, I would recommend also increasing the rigidity of the mudguard.