Replacing the heater radiator on a VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107: DRIVE2

I removed the heater radiator for the first time for a trivial reason: the heater tap was leaking. Replacing it involves removing the radiator completely.

Also, the reasons for removing the radiator may be due to the fact that the stove does not heat well, as was the case for me.

And it is possible that the radiator itself may leak, as my friend had, then you will have to buy a new radiator (preferably copper).

And these are the main reasons when it is necessary to remove the heater radiator on a VAZ classic.

Now let’s look at how to remove the heater radiator using the example of VAZ 2105 and 2107 (on other VAZ cars, the process is similar).

Replacing the heater radiator Lada 2101 (VAZ 2101)

Removing the heater radiator on a VAZ 2101-2107 and those models between (2102, 2103, 2104, 2105 and 2106) is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance, the only thing you need is to stock up on antifreeze or antifreeze, depending on what is filled.
I removed the heater radiator for the first time for a trivial reason: the heater tap was leaking. Replacing it involves removing the radiator completely.

Also, the reasons for removing the radiator may be due to the fact that the stove does not heat well, as was the case for me.

And it is possible that the radiator itself may leak, as my friend had, then you will have to buy a new radiator (preferably copper).

And these are the main reasons when it is necessary to remove the heater radiator on a VAZ classic.

Now let’s look at how to remove the heater radiator using the example of VAZ 2105 and 2107 (on other VAZ cars, the process is similar).

The stove blows slightly warm air

Every owner of a VAZ classic has probably encountered this phenomenon, because all big problems begin with small ones.

However, even with diagnostics, things are not so simple here, because there can be many reasons why warm or cold air is blowing from the VAZ 2101-2104 stove.

For example, due to the fact that the heater fan motor rotates much slower than the nominal operating mode. This malfunction is a consequence of oxidation/contamination of the collector. Cleaning the commutator brushes or completely replacing the electric motor are possible repair options.

Bearing jamming usually leads to the same results - it is diagnosed by the appearance of creaks from the side of the stove, which intensify over time, up to the jamming of the armature shaft.

The second common reason why the VAZ-2101 stove heats poorly is insufficient warming up of the engine. If the temperature gauge needle does not rise to the required 90 degrees, it can be assumed that the thermostat is jammed, and in a position where coolant is constantly circulating through a large circuit. In this case, you will need to replace the thermostat, which can be done independently on a penny:

you need to work with a cooled power unit installed on a level surface;
unscrew the plugs of the main radiator and expansion tank;
pour the antifreeze into a previously prepared container of suitable volume (about 3 liters);
tighten the drain plug;
Using a flat-tip screwdriver, loosen the clamps of the pipes connected to the thermostat;
dismantle the thermostat;
We replace it with a known working one;
We carry out all other work in reverse order.

After the coolant is added to the norm, we start the engine and monitor how the thermostat behaves by feeling its pipes - the lower one should remain cold until the engine warms up to 85-90 degrees.

Another common reason why the VAZ-2101 stove does not heat is contamination of the stove radiator. As a result, the heat transfer of the device is sharply reduced (which is facilitated by both the deterioration of antifreeze circulation and the decrease in heat transfer due to the adhesion of scale and other contaminants on the external and internal walls of the tubes).

How do you know if a clogged radiator is to blame for the lack of heat? It’s very simple: with the engine warm, check the inlet and outlet hoses by touch. If the first one is hot, and the second one is much colder, it is obvious that heat loss occurs precisely in the stove radiator.

It can be revised, but it is better to replace it with a new one - the decision is made after its dismantling based on the results of the inspection.

Here is the algorithm for dismantling the “kopek” stove:

the user instructions recommend draining the antifreeze, but in this case, due to the loss of a small volume of liquid, this may not be done (no more than a liter of antifreeze will spill out);
From the engine compartment side, loosen the clamps on the radiator flanges and pull off the pipes. You need to work carefully - the hoses usually stick, and it will take a lot of effort to remove them;
unscrew the cover of the rubber seal and dismantle it;
go to the interior, unscrew the screws holding the car radio panel (if any);
loosen the fasteners for the heater faucet drive, disconnect the cable;
unscrew the brackets securing the fan casing;
we move the casing down and to the left - it will not be possible to completely dismantle it due to the electrical wiring;
remove the stove radiator from the casing.

Now you can begin a thorough inspection of the radiator, as well as the stove faucet. If the tubes have traces of through or almost through corrosion, further inspection can be stopped - it will not be possible to repair such a radiator.

If the condition of the radiator is more or less tolerable, you can try to clean it using store-bought or “folk” remedies.

We also check whether the faucet handle is stuck - this usually happens if the stove has not been used for a long time (it has not been turned on throughout the warm season). We replace the faucet if traces of leakage are also found on its surface.

When installing a new or restored radiator, do not forget to install new gaskets, which can be pre-lubricated with silicone - this will prevent possible leaks. We perform the same operation in relation to the rubber pipes connected to the radiator. Add the required amount of antifreeze and check the operation of the stove, as well as the tightness of all connections.

Signs of a malfunction of the VAZ 2107 heater radiator

A malfunction of the heater radiator can be due to two reasons:

Coolant leakage from the radiator.
Clogged internal channels.

It is necessary to remove the radiator of the VAZ 2107 cooling system; if any of these problems are detected, after dismantling it is repaired or replaced with a new one. The replacement process itself is not very complicated; you need to be careful and careful. To replace the heater radiator you will need the following tools:

Key to 7;
Key for 10;
Crosshead screwdriver;
Rags;
Coolant;
two new rubber gaskets.

Features of the heating equipment on the VAZ-2106

Problems with the stove on VAZ-2106 cars are not so common, since this unit is considered relatively reliable. But in some situations it is necessary to intervene in it, carrying out partial repairs or performing a full replacement of failed heater elements. To properly carry out repairs or replacements, you must first become familiar with the diagram and structure of the stove.

The stove doesn't heat

If the engine is warm, the heater valve is open, but cold air is coming from the heating system, then most likely the radiator is clogged or there is a low level of antifreeze in the cooling system. To check the coolant level, just look at the level in the expansion tank or unscrew the main radiator cap with the engine off. If there are no problems with the level, then you need to deal with the heat exchanger, you may have to flush it or the entire cooling system. To avoid possible clogging of the heater radiator, you should not add various additives that eliminate small leaks. Such products can easily clog the stove tubes.

Cold air flow from the heating system can also be caused by air in the system. In this case, you will need to remove the air plug and add coolant.

Airing is the appearance of an air lock in the cooling system during repair work or when replacing the coolant.

In addition, the problem is possible with the tap itself, which over time can become clogged or scale may form if water is used instead of antifreeze. If there is a problem with the tap, the part is disassembled and cleaned or simply replaced. Another, although rare, but possible cause of a cold stove, may be pump failure. In this case, the engine warms up, but the pipes going to the heater radiator remain cold. In this case, the water pump must be repaired immediately. Warm air may also not enter the cabin due to problems with the heater fan. The problem may be with the motor itself or its power circuit, for example, if a fuse blows.

Improvement by replacing the fan

Since the radiator in a VAZ gives off a sufficient amount of heat, poor interior heating is associated with deficiencies in the fan. Simply put, there is not enough air to heat the entire interior of the car.

To solve this problem, it is worth replacing your fan, which is too small and not productive, with a better fan - from a VAZ-2108 or VAZ-2109, which have a higher rotation speed.

Refinement of the VAZ-2101 stove is carried out in several steps.

Step-by-step instruction

In the cabin, we remove the shell of the lower part of the heating, where the fan is located.
We remove, in fact, the fan, which we will no longer need.
If you install a part from a figure eight, you need to cut the ridge that supplies air to the floor of the car.
We remove the fan with two blades, since a fan with five blades will work instead.
Don’t forget to check the new fan before installation - connect it and see if the blades move and there is air flow.
We fix the new device instead of the old one and securely fasten the entire structure.
Along with the fan, it is worth reinstalling the resistor, buttons and regulators - we also take them from the figure eight. This must be done, since due to the difference in currents the elements will quickly become unusable.

Tuning the VAZ-2101 stove, based on replacing the fan and other elements, although it will not make the stove work quieter, will allow it to heat the interior faster and better.

How to change the stove in a VAZ 2107

Having found out that the heater needs repair, it will require complete or partial dismantling. If there is a problem with the motor, then it is enough to remove the lower part of the assembly. If there is a problem with the radiator, you must first drain the coolant from the engine cooling system. To carry out repair work you will need the following tools:

Phillips and flathead screwdrivers;
set of open-end and socket wrenches.

To replace the stove you will need a set of keys and screwdrivers

Heater removal

After the coolant has drained and the necessary tools have been prepared, you can begin disassembly. It is carried out in the following order:

Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
In the engine compartment, loosen the two clamps that secure the hoses to the heater pipes. When the hoses are pulled together, a small amount of antifreeze will leak out.

Unscrew the clamps and pull the hoses off the radiator tubes
Unscrew the screws and remove the rubber seal.

Unscrew the screws and remove the rubber seal
We move into the cabin, unscrew the fastening of the shelf under the glove compartment and remove it.

To remove the shelf located under the glove compartment, unscrew the fasteners in the form of screws
Remove the panel with the clock and cigarette lighter by unscrewing the screws on the right, left and bottom.

To remove the panel with the clock and cigarette lighter, you will need to unscrew the corresponding screws
Disconnect the wires from the cigarette lighter and the clock, and then move the panel to the side.

Disconnect the wires from the cigarette lighter and clock
We dismantle the internal cavity of the glove compartment in order to move the right air duct aside and provide access to the heater valve. The left air duct is also dismantled (when the stove is completely removed).

It is necessary to disconnect the right and left air ducts from the heater
Using a 7 key, unscrew the bolt that secures the crane control cable.

Using a 7 key, unscrew the cable fastener
To partially disassemble the stove, you will need to dismantle the lower part of the housing. To do this, use a screwdriver to pry up the metal latches (2 on the right and 2 on the left).

To remove the lower part of the heater you will need to pry off 4 latches with a screwdriver
After removing the latches, pull the lower part towards you and gain access to the motor. If repair or replacement work is required for this unit, we will carry it out.

After dismantling the lower part, access to the heater fan opens
To dismantle the radiator, we take it out of the housing along with the tap.

To remove the radiator, simply pull it towards you.
To completely dismantle the stove, remove the upper part of the body, which is secured with four 10mm wrench bolts.

To completely remove the stove, you need to unscrew 4 10mm wrench bolts.
We unscrew the 2 bolts securing the heater control bracket and loosen the screws that hold the rod mounting brackets.
We remove the remaining part of the stove.

When the fasteners are unscrewed, remove the upper part of the stove body

Replacing the heater motor

The following sequential steps must be performed:

The electrical network is completely de-energized.
The positive wire should be disconnected from the motor. It is located under the dashboard.
It is necessary to unscrew two bolts located in the engine compartment. They serve to hold the stove casing.
Then you need to disconnect the mass.
Unscrew and remove two bolts that serve to secure the fan to the heater housing.
The air duct grille is being dismantled. To do this, the element is rotated 90 degrees and removed from the casing.
The device should be assembled using the reverse sequence. The power supply contacts must be securely fixed. Otherwise, the assembly will have to be disassembled a second time.

Simple rules that, if followed, will extend the life of the heater radiator

In order for the radiator to last a long time, you need to follow a number of rules:

When purchasing, you should not save money and buy a low-quality unit. You should pay attention to the material of manufacture and the manufacturer.
Only high-quality liquids should be poured into the system. Do not pour water and mix antifreeze with antifreeze. No lubricant or fuel should enter the system.
When idle during the warm season, when the heater is not in use, you need to open the heater tap at least twice a month so that liquid enters the radiator. Thus, the unit will not dry out and the heater tap will not stick.

If you carefully operate the heating system and fill it with high-quality antifreeze or antifreeze, then its components will last for many years.

Design and main malfunctions of VAZ stoves

The standard radiator of the VAZ 2106 stove, despite its small size, copes quite well with its task of cooling the water and warming up the interior. You can see the design of the interior heater more clearly below.

The mechanism of operation of this device is shown in the figure.

Read

The type six heating system is one of the most common designs based on the use of water from the cooling system of the power plant. It consists of three main components: the stove

, the price of which is acceptable for Russian car enthusiasts, mounts with control devices in the form of taps and air ducts with a radiator.

The air intake damper and valve of the VAZ 2106 stove are connected to control devices using flexible and elastic rods. The maximum right position of the upper device means the maximum opening of the tap and the greatest flow of coolant through the radiator into the heating system. If the lower device occupies this position, then this means the maximum opening of the air intake damper, which directs the greatest air flow through the stove further into the heating system.

Plastic deflectors with a variable angle of airflow into the cabin make it possible to change the direction of air flow and direct it in the desired direction. Structurally, sometimes called the air flow distribution cover, it is not connected in any way to the system central stove control switch. This damper is adjusted to open and close using a lever device mounted for comfort on the driver's side of the seat.

Replacement procedure

You can buy a new heater radiator for a VAZ 2107 at any auto store; an aluminum one will cost about 1 thousand rubles, and a copper one will cost a little more, but it can be soldered, which, however, is only a temporary measure. The kit should include spare parts necessary for installation.

First you need to disconnect the battery terminal so as not to damage the car's electrical system during operation. Radiator installation begins with draining the coolant. To do this, use a 13mm head to unscrew the drain plug, which is located on the cylinder block; there is no need to drain the cooling system radiator.

Installing a new stove

Assembling the heater does not cause any difficulties, since all actions are performed in the reverse order of disassembly. However, there are some points to consider. When replacing a radiator, new rubber seals must be installed. They are pre-coated with silicone sealant. The nuts should be tightened without exerting much effort, so as not to squeeze out the seals, thereby breaking the tightness.

When the heat exchanger is installed in place and the stove is completely assembled, the edges of the inlet and outlet tubes are lubricated with sealant. If the pipes are in normal condition, that is, the rubber is not cracked, leave them after wiping the internal cavity with a clean rag. Then put on the hoses and tighten the clamps. After assembly, all that remains is to fill in the coolant and check the tightness of the connections.

While operating the vehicle after repair, you should also monitor the connections for leaks.

If problems arise with the “seven” stove, you can fix them yourself, which is due to the simplicity of the unit’s design. To remove and replace the heater, you will need to prepare a tool kit and follow step-by-step instructions.

What does the stove consist of?

Before you start improving the stove, you need to understand what elements it consists of. Any VAZ stove consists of:

radiator;
air flow distributor;
three-blade or 5-blade fan and its shell.

If the theater begins with a hanger, then the stove begins with an air intake duct. It is located at the rear of the engine block. It is here that the air coming from the street is purified from moisture. The box is protected from a hot engine by special gaskets - they act as a partition.

After the air is cleared of moisture, it enters the heating system. The steam then comes out. There is a device above the dashboard that allows some of the air to escape when driving.

The heating housing is located in the interior of the car: it is fixed to the partition with the engine.

The heater radiator has inlet and outlet channels. These channels are connected to each other by tubes. The first tube has a built-in heating valve that regulates the supply of cooling liquid. Using a lever located on the dashboard, the flow of fluid into the machine's ventilation system is reduced or increased.

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The control unit on Kalina does not have a habit of failing, but there are exceptions, just like everywhere else. If, nevertheless, a problem arises that the block needs to be replaced, then this process is described in the bottom article.

For work we need a regular screwdriver. Open the fuse cover; to do this, pull the cover towards you with a little effort.

Disconnect the plug from the module to control the light.

The figure shows how you can remove the cover with the module; there is nothing holding it in place other than latches.

Now that the cover is removed, we begin to pull out the control unit; here you need to be very careful, the design is weak. And it holds tightly on the latches, of which there are two. In order to remove it, you need to apply force by pressing on one latch using a screwdriver from the inside and releasing one of the sides, while the second side can be removed without wasting effort.

If replacement is required, then carry out it in the reverse order; the light control unit is inserted from the outside until it stops until it is secured with latches.

When replacing the light control unit on Kalina, the main thing is to be careful and not break the fragile latches, otherwise there is nothing complicated.

If the time has come to change the backlight bulbs of the heater switches on Kalina or you just want to change the bulb to a different color, then you will have to tinker a little, since the procedure is not the easiest, you need to be patient and get started.

Do-it-yourself bleeding of the brake system

To carry out the work you will need:

Empty transparent jar.
Thin transparent hose.
Brake fluid.
Socket wrenches, open-end wrenches, and crimp wrenches 8.
Jack, wheel chocks, car stands.

The pumping scheme is as follows:

First, get rid of air pockets in the system circuit connected to the right rear cylinder.
Once finished, move to the left wheel and repeat the procedure.
The third in line is the front right mechanism.
The last thing to bleed is the front left wheel caliper.

To get rid of air pockets in the tubes, you need to install the hose on the bleeder fitting. It must be torn off in advance using a 8mm crimp wrench. The lower edge of the hoses must be lowered into a container with a small amount of brake fluid. This way you can monitor the amount of air leaving the system. All work must be carried out with an assistant. After the expansion tank has been filled, you can begin the procedure. The assistant presses the brake pedal all the way several times.

With the last press, it is fixed in the extreme position at the pole. At this moment, you slightly unscrew the bleeder fitting, and liquid with air bubbles will flow through the hose. The cycle is repeated until brake fluid starts to come out without any air. From time to time it is necessary to check the presence of liquid in the expansion tank and add if necessary. This procedure is carried out on all four wheels according to the scheme given above. Upon completion of the work, the efficiency of the braking system increases significantly.

And a short video on the topic of the article:

If the rear brake cylinder on a VAZ 2101-2107 begins to jam or perform its function ineffectively, it should be replaced with a new one. To do this we need the following tool:

Split wrench for unscrewing brake pipes
Penetrating lubricant
10mm socket with ratchet or regular 10mm wrench

So, the first step is to perform some preparatory procedures, which are listed below:

Raise the rear of the car with a jack
Remove the wheel
Remove the rear wheel brake pads

After this, the rear brake cylinder becomes free and its location is shown in the photo below:

So, first you need to spray the brake pipe with penetrating lubricant, and then unscrew it:

After this, you need to unscrew the two bolts securing the cylinder, which are located on the reverse side:

The most convenient way to do this is with a socket and ratchet:

And now you can safely remove the VAZ 2101-2107 brake cylinder from the reverse side, as is clearly demonstrated in the photo below:

Next, we buy a new cylinder, the price of which for all classic models is about 300 rubles apiece. If you change a pair, you will have to buy two pieces and spend 600 rubles. Installation is carried out in reverse order.

If necessary, after replacement, bleed the brakes if there is air in the system.

Sources

https://vaz-russia.ru/remont/zamena-glavnogo-tormoznogo-tsilindra-na-vaz-2101-vaz-2107.html
https://vazpro.ru/zamena-zadnego-tormoznogo-tsilindra-vaz-2101-prokachka-sistemy.html
https://zarulemvaz.ru/zamena-zadnego-tormoznogo-cilindra-na-vaz-2101-2107/