Why does the VAZ-2114 window lifter not work, and what should I do?

If a problem with the window regulator on a VAZ-2114 occurs while the car is moving, and the driver himself cannot correct the situation on the spot, you need to call a tow truck. The movement of a car when the window has stopped going up or down due to a breakdown, from the point of view of traffic regulations, threatens the safety of passengers and the driver himself. Why does the VAZ-2114 window lifter not work? There are many reasons: lowering is difficult because the fuse has blown, there is a malfunction in the door, etc. This article contains information about the types of failures of window regulators on the VAZ-2114, about methods for adjusting and dismantling the mechanism.

Device classification

Window lifters on the VAZ-2114 are standard for other models of the Samara series. They are classified by drive type into:

mechanical;
electric.

The latter are divided depending on the method of transmission of the motor impulse:

lever;
rack and pinion;
cable

By type of construction:

collapsible;
whole.

Each model has its own advantages, disadvantages and price. Standard configurations of window lifting mechanisms on the VAZ-2114 consist of two types. Electric drive mechanisms are installed in front, while the rear doors are equipped with mechanical devices.

Major breakdowns of power windows

Depending on the configuration of the car, it can be equipped with both mechanical (manual) and electric windows. It is from which of these options is installed on your car that you should begin searching for the corresponding faults.

Thus, for manually operated window regulators the following types of damage are most typical:

failure of rods (bending of rods when excessive force is applied);
jamming of traction joints;
spontaneous unwinding and loss of fasteners.

It is quite simple to fix all these malfunctions with your own hands; you just need to correctly dismantle the window regulator and carry out repairs (we will tell you how to remove the device mechanism below).

In turn, if the power windows on a VAZ 2114 do not work, then the possible reasons for this may be:

fuse blown (at the same time playing the role of a fog light fuse);
failure of relay K5;
break in the power supply circuit of the lifts;
drive motor burnout.

In this case, you should start your search by checking the fuses designated F5 and F16 (this can be done by replacing them with new ones or by regular “diagnosis”). If the fuses are working, then you should continue to look for the problem; if not, replace them with others designed for the same amperage.

The next thing to check is relay K5 in the power window circuit. To test it, you need to replace it with a known working (new) relay and check the functionality of the device. If a malfunction is detected, the old relay must be replaced.

An indirect, but at the same time, objective way to test virtually any relay is to test it by ear. So, when the power circuit is turned on, the working relay should emit a characteristic click, which indicates its serviceability. If, after applying current, no sound is heard, then the relay has soured and does not work.

The next stage of the test will be to “test” the wires in the power window circuit using a multimeter. If a break is detected, it will be necessary to replace the burnt wire with a new one with the same (or slightly larger) cross-section.

If the wiring is in order, then all that remains is to check the functionality of the electric drive itself. The easiest way to do this is to connect the lift motor to the network “directly”. A failed electric window motor cannot be repaired and must be replaced with a similar one.

If after such a thorough check it is still not possible to find a fault, then you should check the mechanical parts of the electric lift, namely, inspect the condition of its gears. Most often, it is their breakage or chipping/abrasion of individual teeth that causes the malfunction. The solution in this case will be to replace the gears themselves, which can be purchased at almost any auto store.

The most common reasons why the VAZ-2114 window regulator does not work

There is no point in arguing that power windows significantly increase the operating comfort of a car. But most drivers also know that they cause a lot of trouble. By the way, when it comes to the breakdown of the mechanism, we must not forget that the problem may not be in it, but in the glass itself. Over time, the holder or seals wear out, which often leads to a banal misalignment, which significantly impedes the freedom of movement of the glass.

The design of the window lifting mechanism is quite simple, but not reliable. And the fact that the safety block is placed in a place where moisture and dirt can easily get in is also not a plus. As you know, the slightest wear of the insulation can lead to a short circuit and breakdown of the entire system.

The most common reasons why a window regulator fails are the following:

Damage to the components of the control unit.
The contacts have oxidized and the circuit has opened.
Disconnecting the power supply.
The control button has stopped performing its functions.

Yes, most often car enthusiasts are faced with the fact that this component of the window regulator fails.

VAZ 2114 power windows failed

Suddenly the power windows on the VAZ 2114 stopped working, the fuse was intact on both doors, I removed the relay, rang it - it was intact. According to the electrical diagram, the plus fits separately for each door, the minus for each door. There is one plus for the backlighting of the buttons and for the opening buttons themselves, the buttons light up, therefore there is a plus.

What could be the problem?

It's easy and interesting to communicate here. Join us!

you pick the button out of the door, turn on the ignition, and call the wires right on the button, there are 2 pluses, two minuses, and two for the motor, + one for the backlight, everything is very simple

Great answer above! How did you check the relay? It is tested in the closed and open state. In general, it works when the ignition is turned on, it’s not difficult to check by clicking. Well, check if power is coming out of the mounting block. The backlighting of the buttons is usually powered by turning on the headlights. Total weight. As a rule, two buttons do not fail at once.

I'm tired of writing, these advisers who write to any question about electrical engineering: - there is no mass! ! !look for your mass elsewhere, the person needs help and you are here. Dear Nikolai, all negative things come to us suddenly! ! !

Since you have knowledge of the electrical part, it will be easier for us to explain, this is good.

Most often, malfunctions of this type come from the power window control unit, or simply from the buttons

let's divide the circuit into 2 parts and check each one separately,

1 disconnect the plug to the buttons and disconnect the wires going to the window motor, check the motor using + and - connected separately, you can use another battery, check the plug to the buttons with a simple light bulb, if both here and there everything is normal, then the reason is in the buttons, or rather in the jumper plastic contact type swing

if you have any questions, please sign up, today my advice has already helped 2 out of 2 people, and the presence of working backlighting in the buttons does not indicate the working condition of the button itself, the system is like a regular switch in our home

What could be the problem?

Since you have knowledge of the electrical part, it will be easier for us to explain, this is good.

Most often, malfunctions of this type come from the power window control unit, or simply from the buttons

let's divide the circuit into 2 parts and check each one separately,

Broken power window button

Why does the VAZ-2114 window lifter not work? A very common reason for this is that its buttons fail. If the mechanism begins to work at a slow speed after a certain time, the plates inside it may have oxidized. This caused a breakdown in contact: it appears intermittently or disappears completely.

It makes sense to check the version with a broken button, replacing it with a working one. Just swap them. The part is dismantled using a knife or screwdriver. Use the tip to pry it from below and remove it from the chip.

If after installation it turns out that the non-working window regulator began to move the glass, and the working one began to move, on the contrary, then it is worth purchasing a new part and replacing it. If the problem is not with the button, then you need to continue searching for the causes of the breakdown.

Principle of operation

Why do the power windows not work or only the right window does not go up? To understand exactly why the malfunction occurred, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the operating principle of the unit. Typically, such a system has a trapezoidal design, which allows the windows to be raised and lowered by pressing switches. The buttons themselves can be located in all car door cards or located only in the driver’s door. It is also worth noting that an electric motor is mounted in each door, which operates in two directions.

In addition, each system is equipped with a special relay, the purpose of which is to control the voltage supplied to the electric motors of the structure. Depending on the vehicle, some car models may be equipped with automatic switches that are installed separately for each electric motor. The use of such structural elements makes it possible to ensure normal operation of the entire system if the window regulator is poor on only one door.

Relay

One of the reasons for the breakdown of the glass door lift mechanism may be that the relay does not work or the fuse has blown.

Find the safety block under the hood of the car.
According to the diagram, determine the location of the relay itself and the fuse, which make up the links of the electric glass lifting mechanism (ESM) chain.
The legs of the elements must be clean, with a pronounced metallic sheen.
If traces of oxidation, dirt deposits, etc. are found, you need to clean them off. Mechanically or using special means, for example, WD-40.
You can check the relay for functionality in the same way as a button. The working element should be removed from another unit and mounted into the ESP system.
If newly installed parts fail again within a short period of time, then the problem is in the wiring itself.

A breakdown may occur with the lift motor. It either burns out completely, or the worm mechanism inside it fails. In the latter case, the device makes a characteristic sound when the button is pressed, but the glass remains motionless.

The reason for the breakdown of the ESP may be that it has a common power source and the external lighting. And if the fuse for the foglights is blown out, the window regulator will not work.

Situations

There are situations where power windows stop working under repeated circumstances.
For example, after driving on a dirt road or bumps, the mechanism begins to move the glass in jerks. When opening the casing, it is sometimes discovered that the wire has come out of the chip or from the connector, or after visiting a car wash, incidents begin with the glass. Perhaps the depressurization of the insulation contributed to the fact that moisture penetrated into the electrical components of the system and short circuits or disruption of communication between contacts began. Chafing of the insulating layer of the wiring is one of the most common causes of problems with ESP. To facilitate diagnosis, it is worth observing what causes the standard fuse F6 to blow.

If this moment is the activation of the lift itself, then, most likely, this place is somewhere under the door trim.
If then, when you turn on the ignition, then it is worth checking the insulation of the wires from the door to the safety assembly block.

One of the weak points is where the bundle of wires goes from under the hood to the door trim.

Dismantling the old unit

If the electrical elements have been more or less decided, then the mechanical part of the problem is much more complicated. The described VAZ models have non-separable ESP structures. They are characterized as the most reliable, but in case of breakdown they require a complete replacement from the owner.

How the structure is dismantled.

Remove the handle and rod.
Lowering the glass, remove the holder.
The glass is raised to the maximum and secured with tape.
Unscrew all the nuts holding the mechanism to the door.
Dismantling is complete and the device can be completely removed for diagnostics.

Next, you will decide whether to repair or replace with a new device.