Do-it-yourself instructions for repairing and replacing the cylinder head on a VAZ 2106

How to remove the cylinder head without errors. Stages of work

1. Firstly, if you are going to repair the engine, then you must drain the coolant.
2. Then you need to remove the camshaft, since the cylinder head bolts are located under it. And it is simply impossible to get to them without removing the camshaft.
3. It is also necessary to disconnect the coolant supply tube to the head. It is located on the right rear side of the engine, as shown in the photo below:

And disconnect the tube, moving it slightly to the side:

You also need to disconnect the plug from the temperature sensor, which is shown in the photo:

Now everything is ready. You can begin to unscrew the bolts securing the cylinder head to the engine block. In this case, we use a fairly powerful wrench with a head:

Once the bolts have been loosened, you can use a ratchet handle to complete this procedure several times faster:

After all the head bolts have been unscrewed, you can lift it by grasping the front part, or whatever is more convenient for you:

Athlon1 › Blog › We repair the cylinder head (cylinder head) at home VAZ.

I warn you right away that without plumbing skills and special tools (see photo below) it is impossible to do this work yourself.

Repair of the cylinder head is usually required after the car has driven more than 200 - 300 thousand kilometers, which means replacing worn valve guides and the valves themselves. We will not consider replacing oil seals as repairing the head, since this procedure does not require removing it from the engine and has already been mastered by many motorists, and requires 2 to 3 hours of time. But! I want to warn “amateurs” and professionals that this simple procedure often ends in real head repair. Be very careful and careful when removing and pressing oil seals. The metal of the guide bushing is very fragile and inexperienced “masters” sometimes break off the upper part of the bushing on which the cap sits. And then the procedure begins, which I will discuss below.

I won’t tell you how to remove and install the head, I’ll just briefly remind you. Don’t forget to drain the antifreeze, before removing, align the timing marks of the crankshaft and camshaft, prepare a new head gasket and get a torque wrench.

So let's get to work. The head has been removed and we have it in our hands, if you are new to this business, then remember how the camshaft is positioned so as not to rack your brains later (use the groove of the pulley key on 08s and the pin under the gear on 01s). We remove the camshaft (on 01s this has already been done, on 08s it can also be removed on the engine), one by one loosening the fastening nuts, according to the diagram. We loosen and unscrew little by little so that the camshaft “bed” does not crack, this especially applies to the 08s. (When we unscrew the head bolts, we also adhere to this rule)

Disassembling the cylinder head, lapping valves VAZ 2106

We dry out the valve (see Replacing the oil seals of the gas distribution mechanism).

Pressing the valve plate against the seat, we turn it alternately in one direction or the other.

After thoroughly washing, we install the valve in place, replacing the oil seal cap (see Replacing the oil seal caps of the gas distribution mechanism).

Video about “Disassembling the cylinder head, lapping valves” for VAZ 2106

Grinding in valves of the cylinder head of
a VAZ 2106 Replacing Seals and Grinding in Valves (Part 2)

Repair of VAZ head (classic). Do it yourself!

↑ Valves

The valves are driven by a camshaft rotating in a bearing housing through intermediate levers. The gap between the camshaft cams and the lever is set with an adjusting bolt, on the spherical head of which the lever swings. The bolt is kept from loosening by a locknut.

The valves have two cylindrical springs - external and internal, sandwiched between a plate (top) and two support washers (bottom). The spring plate is held on the valve stem by two crackers, which when folded have the shape of a truncated cone. Each lever is pressed against the end of the valve with a special (hairpin) spring.

To increase the wear resistance of the rod, both valves are nitrided, and the ends of the rods on which the levers rest are hardened with high frequency current.

In what cases is it necessary to remove and repair the unit?

There may be several reasons for repairs, let’s consider them in order:

1. The first and most common reason for which it is necessary to remove the VAZ 2106 cylinder head and repair it is wear of the gasket. The sealing gasket wears out over time and holes may appear in it, which can result in antifreeze getting into the engine fluid and oil into the coolant.
2. The appearance of microcracks in the cylinder head structure. In this case, it is necessary not only to remove the cylinder head of the VAZ 2106, but to have special equipment that will allow for high-quality repairs.
3. Broken guide bushings. Failure of these elements requires urgent replacement of components.
4. The need to repair the head seat or replace it.
5. Replacement of the camshaft or the need for its repair and troubleshooting.

In fact, there may be many reasons, but we have given the most common and most frequently encountered in the case of VAZ 2106 cars. You can find out more about how repairs and dismantling, boring and modification of the cylinder head on a VAZ 2106 occurs below.

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Head milling

There are several cylinder head malfunctions that you cannot fix on your own. When the engine overheats systematically, the aluminum cylinder head becomes deformed. The perfectly flat surface of contact between the head and the engine block ceases to be so.

This leads to the gasket between the block and the head starting to leak. Replacing it with a new one does not solve the problem. In this case, grinding the adjacent surface may be the solution. Milling is performed on a special machine, which allows the work to be completed with perfect precision.

In the conditions of your garage, it is unlikely to carry out such a procedure yourself. Using a hand sander (as some garage “kulibins” advise) for this purpose means completely ruining the adjacent surface. In this case, repairing the cylinder head will lead to a complete replacement of the head - it is impossible to grind it indefinitely.

If overheated, the housing may also rupture in the form of cracks. They are not always visible to the eye, but their presence greatly affects the proper operation of the engine. If cracks have formed in the areas where the head and block meet, or in the valve seats, you will have no choice but to replace the block head with a new one. All other areas can be restored using argon welding. It is impossible to do such a cylinder head repair yourself due to the lack of specialized equipment - not all service stations have such welding.

As you can see, not everything can be repaired on your own. By correctly assessing the scope of work, you will nevertheless be able to save money on your budget.

Malfunctions when removal and installation of the cylinder head are required

There are a number of malfunctions due to which the cylinder head of the VAZ “six” has to be removed from the car for further diagnostics or repairs. Let's look at them in more detail.

Gasket burnt out

The following signs indicate that the cylinder head gasket has failed (burnt out or was punctured):

• the appearance of leaks or gas breakthrough at the junction between the engine block and the head. With this phenomenon, extraneous noise appears in the operation of the power plant. If the outer shell of the seal ruptures, traces of lubricant or coolant may appear;
• formation of an emulsion in motor oil. This happens when coolant gets into the oil through the gasket or when a crack forms in the BC;

  
  The formation of an emulsion indicates that coolant has entered the oil.

• the appearance of white smoke from the exhaust system. White exhaust occurs when coolant enters the combustion chamber of the engine. In such a situation, the liquid level in the expansion tank gradually decreases. Untimely repairs can lead to water hammer. Water hammer is a malfunction that is caused by a sharp increase in pressure in the sub-piston space;

  
  If the gasket is damaged and coolant is leaking into the cylinders, thick white smoke will come out of the exhaust pipe.

• entry of lubricant and/or exhaust gases into the engine cooling system. You can detect whether lubricant has entered the coolant by the presence of oil stains on the surface of the liquid in the expansion tank. In addition, when the seal of the gasket is broken, bubbles may appear in the tank, indicating that exhaust gases have entered the cooling system.

  
  The appearance of air bubbles in the expansion tank indicates exhaust gases entering the cooling system

Video: Damage to the cylinder head gasket

Damage to the cylinder head mating plane

The following reasons can lead to the formation of defects in the mating surface of the block head:

• long-term operation of the power unit;
• motor overheating;
• poor quality coolant.

Defects of this kind are eliminated by processing the plane, with preliminary dismantling of the head.

Damage to the mating plane using the example of the Kalina cylinder head

Cracks in the block head

The main reasons that lead to the appearance of cracks in the cylinder head are overheating of the engine, as well as improper tightening of the mounting bolts during installation. Depending on the nature of the damage, the head can be repaired using argon welding. In case of serious defects, the cylinder head will have to be replaced.

Overheating of the engine can lead to a crack in the cylinder head.

Wear of guide bushings

With a high mileage of the engine or the use of low-quality engine oil, the valve guides wear out, which leads to a violation of the tightness between the seat and the valve plate. The main sign of such a malfunction is increased oil consumption, as well as the appearance of bluish smoke from the exhaust pipe. The problem is resolved by replacing the guide bushings.

Valve seat wear

Valve seats can wear out for several reasons:

• use of low quality fuel;
• long engine mileage;
• Incorrect ignition setting.

The malfunction can be solved by straightening or replacing the saddles. In addition, the ignition system must be checked.

Seat defects lead to a loose valve fit and loss of combustion chamber tightness.

Broken spark plug

Quite rarely, but it happens that as a result of over-tightening the spark plug, a part breaks off on the thread in the spark plug hole. To remove the remains of the cylinder head spark plug element, you need to dismantle the threaded part and unscrew it using available tools.

CPG malfunctions

If there is a problem with the cylinder-piston group of the engine, the cylinder head also has to be removed. The most common failures of the CPG include:

• increased wear of cylinders, rings and pistons;
• piston damage;
• occurrence of rings.

If the cylinders are worn excessively, the engine is completely disassembled to replace the piston group, as well as to bore the internal cavity of the cylinders on a machine. As for the damage to the pistons themselves, although they rarely burn out. All this leads to the need to dismantle the cylinder head and replace faulty parts. If the rings are stuck, normal operation of the cylinder and the engine as a whole becomes impossible.

If the rings are stuck, normal engine operation is disrupted

Ring sticking - rings are stuck in the piston grooves due to the accumulation of combustion products in them. As a result, compression and power are reduced, oil consumption increases and uneven cylinder wear occurs.

Replacing the cylinder head gasket of a VAZ 2106

Replacing the cylinder head gasket of a VAZ classic on an engine with a chain drive is generally a fairly simple job; the main difficulty is aligning the crankshaft and camshaft marks during assembly. If the marks are set incorrectly, the engine will not work normally, or may not start at all.

You can change the cylinder head on a “Classic” without a pit or a lift; before performing work, you should prepare the necessary tools and a container for draining the coolant. From the tool you will need:

• a set of car keys;
• slotted and Phillips screwdrivers;
• pliers;
• knob with extension;
• head 19 (for old style bolts) or multi-faceted head 12 (for new type bolts);
• hammer;
• mount.

We replace the PGBC on engines 2101/03/06 as follows (on a carburetor engine):

• turn off the ignition, put the car in neutral gear and on the handbrake;
• remove the terminal from the battery;
• drain the antifreeze from the radiator, also from the cylinder block. Even if the coolant is gone, there is still some left in the radiator;
• unscrew the nuts securing the air filter housing, remove the housing to the side;

• disconnect the gas rod and choke cable from the carburetor;
• free the block head from the water pipes (radiator and upper stove);
• discard the vacuum brake booster hose;
• unscrew the four nuts securing the exhaust pipe of the muffler;

• disconnect the high-voltage wires from the head;
• remove the distributor (you don’t have to dismantle it, but it will get in the way);
• disconnect the gasoline hose from the carburetor;
• remove the valve cover and place it aside;
• unscrew the 13 mm bolt with edges securing the cylinder head;

• remove the chain tensioner, unscrew the camshaft gear fastening;
• we throw the chain off the sprocket (gear), the chain can be dropped down, and then it will not be difficult to get it;

• unscrew the camshaft nuts (key 13), remove the shaft,
• pull off the cylinder head mounting nuts, unscrew the bolts and remove the cylinder head. In order not to lose the rocker, it is better to remove them from the head.

After dismantling the head, we carefully protect the surfaces of the block and the cylinder head itself; there should be no irregularities on them. During assembly, all parts are installed in place, but there are some features:

• so that the installed gasket does not slip on the surface of the block (if there are no guides in the block), the gasket can be carefully spread over the entire surface with lithol;
• before installing the cylinder head, install the piston of the first cylinder at TDC (at the top point);
• in order not to remove the chain from the pallet, you can fasten the chain to the shoe;

• Having installed the cylinder head, we place the rocker, making sure that they are all in their places;
• Tighten the cylinder head bolts evenly, from the middle, in several steps, in the order as in the figure below;

• We adjust the camshaft so that it is aligned with the fourth cylinder (the pin on the flange is located almost opposite the upper bolt on the body, picture below);

• after installing the camshaft, a sprocket with a chain is installed, and then the marks are aligned exactly, but first you need to tighten the chain with a tensioner;

• Before installing the tensioner, it should be recharged - loosen the central cap nut, recess the plunger, and tighten this nut;

• after assembling and tensioning the chain, the timing marks must match - the mark on the crankshaft pulley is located opposite the large mark of the chain cover;

• the alignment of the camshaft marks is indicated by arrows below in the figure;

• Having completed the assembly, fill in antifreeze and start the engine, check how it works.

We do everything with our own hands

Sometimes inexperienced motorists perform actions that require certain knowledge and skills. And very often such repair work turns out badly for car owners. We strongly advise that you only tighten the cylinder block pins if you have already performed this procedure. Let's consider the process for a VAZ 2106 car. But keep in mind that each individual engine has its own specific operation.

What to prepare?

In general, you won't need anything other than a torque wrench. When tightening, this special key will be simply necessary, since only with the help of this tool can the torque be determined. You are unlikely to find this key in home tools, so you should purchase it at an auto store or borrow it from a service station. Of course, it’s unlikely that anyone will give it to you for free, since its cost varies from 1,200 rubles (350 hryvnia) and more.

Special torque tool

It is also worth noting that very often “garage specialists” recommend using a regular wrench. Like, “Well, what’s going to happen with this, after all, Petrovich, a neighbor in the garage, actually tightened the bolts on his “cop” by eye, without any of these modern gadgets.” To avoid negative consequences, it is better not to listen to such people, since not everyone understands the importance of this procedure.

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Step by Step Actions

First, perform a visual inspection of the pins. If you see that the quality of the bolts is unsatisfactory, then, according to the recommendations of experienced specialists, it is better to refrain from tightening them. Also pay attention to the quality of the thread itself. Before tensioning, it should be lubricated with engine fluid or other lubricant. In addition, if the screws have already been used, then in any case they need to be replaced with new ones. These, again, are recommendations from experienced automotive technicians.

In general, the procedure for tensioning the bolts is similar to other VAZ models, but in the case of 2106 it occurs in two stages. As for the diagram, you can see it below.

Lubricate the threads with engine fluid

Tighten all cylinder head components

According to the diagram for the cylinder head of VAZ 2106

1. Take a torque wrench and tighten all the pins in the order shown in the diagram. In this case, the pulling torque should be 3.5 - 4.1 kgf*m. First of all, you need to tighten the two screws located in the middle. Then, in order to maintain the correct order, two upper and lower pins are tightened, located on each side of the middle elements. Next, the two outer pins are tightened - first the left ones, then the right ones. In this case, the element numbered eleven does not need to be touched.
2. After these steps are completed, you need to tighten the pins again, in the same sequence. Please note that now the tightening torque with a torque wrench should be 10.5 - 11.5 kgf*m.
3. After these steps, you only have to tighten screw number 11. Do this using a torque wrench, and the torque should be 3.5 - 4.0 kgf*m.

Actually, at this point the stretching procedure can be considered complete. Be careful when carrying out this work, since incorrect actions can lead to negative consequences in the work. 2106 Once again, it is necessary to remind you to respect the timing. If elements are overtightened, cracks may appear on the cylinder head. This, in turn, will cause the need to re-dismantle the cylinder head and correct the breakdown.

Replacement process

If signs of damage to the gasket are detected, it should be replaced immediately.

Set of tools

To carry out the replacement procedure you need to prepare:

• set of wrenches;
• pliers;
• screwdriver;
• torque wrench;
• coolant container;
• clean rags.

  
  A set of necessary tools

The car must be washed before replacement to prevent dirt from getting into the disassembled engine.

Step-by-step removal and repair guide

1. Removing the cylinder head is a critical step in our case. Before you begin removing and modifying the cylinder head, you need to drain all the antifreeze from the engine, and also remove the air filter along with the carburetor. Before doing this, disconnect all pipes and hoses of the system in advance. To carry out the work, you will need a standard set of tools, something that every driver should have, including wrenches, screwdrivers, and so on.
2. When the carburetor is removed, it is necessary to begin dismantling the cylinder head cover, as well as aligning the marks on the crank pulley disk and the camshaft. In addition, the marks on the camshaft disc must match the mark on the housing. Read more about this in the video and photo.
3. The next stage of dismantling will be to loosen the chain tensioner and remove the support washer. You need to sharply remove the screw and dismantle the cylinder head sprocket. You should also dismantle the VAZ 2106 camshaft along with the housing. Next, the rockers are removed, after which all high-voltage cables from the spark plugs are disconnected and the screws that secure the cylinder head itself are unscrewed. Next, the cylinder head is removed for repairs and first cleaned of deposits and carbon deposits.

Replacing the plug

New plug installed

1. Replacing the plug can be a bit of a hassle, as you'll see in the video. Corrosion and deposits can make it difficult to remove. Use a hex wrench, but first spray the screw generously with VD-40. This does not always help, but it may be advisable in your case.
2. If it was not possible to unscrew the plug in this way to replace it, you will have to drill it out. To do this, several holes should be drilled around the perimeter of the plug (drill through without fear, there is a thick wall under this plug, so you will not damage the unit). The main thing in this matter is not to damage the thread.
3. The next step is to install the plug. There is nothing complicated about this issue. Before installing the plug, you will need to completely clean the threads of carbon and deposits; for this you can use a sharp object like an awl. Only after the threads have been cleaned can the plug be installed.

Replacing guide bushings

Installing bushings in the cylinder head

1. Use pliers and a clamp to remove the bushings. When the elements are removed, measure their outer diameters; in practice, it is usually 0.05 mm less than the factory ones.
2. To install failed bushings, you will need a hammer with a mandrel and motor fluid; you may need to heat the metal, for which you can use an electric stove.
3. After the bushings are heated (if necessary), they are lubricated with oil to make them fit easier.
4. When all eight bushings have been replaced with new ones, you need to wait some time until the cylinder head cools down. In this case, the inner diameter of the bushings must be turned so that the valves do not dangle inside, but at the same time they can move freely and do not jam.

Countersinking the head saddle

Scheme for seat countersinking

1. As you can see from the video, replacing the cylinder head seat can cause some difficulties.
2. You need to cut the metal layer in a circle, a detailed diagram is given above.
3. After this, the cylinder head must be cut at an angle of 120 degrees until a round edge appears.
4. Then you need to make a working chamfer up to 0.2 cm thick. This is done so that the valve rubs tightly.

Head milling

There are several cylinder head malfunctions that you cannot fix on your own. When the engine overheats systematically, the aluminum cylinder head becomes deformed. The perfectly flat surface of contact between the head and the engine block ceases to be so.

This leads to the gasket between the block and the head starting to leak. Replacing it with a new one does not solve the problem. In this case, grinding the adjacent surface may be the solution. Milling is performed on a special machine, which allows the work to be completed with perfect precision.

In the conditions of your garage, it is unlikely to carry out such a procedure yourself. Using a hand sander (as some garage “kulibins” advise) for this purpose means completely ruining the adjacent surface. In this case, repairing the cylinder head will lead to a complete replacement of the head - it is impossible to grind it indefinitely.

If overheated, the housing may also rupture in the form of cracks. They are not always visible to the eye, but their presence greatly affects the proper operation of the engine. If cracks have formed in the areas where the head and block meet, or in the valve seats, you will have no choice but to replace the block head with a new one. All other areas can be restored using argon welding. It is impossible to do such a cylinder head repair yourself due to the lack of specialized equipment - not all service stations have such welding.

As you can see, not everything can be repaired on your own. By correctly assessing the scope of work, you will nevertheless be able to save money on your budget.

Remove the cylinder head from the engine (see Replacing the cylinder head gasket ).

We unscrew the seven nuts securing the manifolds to the block head and remove them (see Replacing the gaskets of the intake and exhaust manifolds ).

Using a 10mm wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the pipe.

. and remove the pipe.

Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the double pipe.

. and remove it from the block head. Sealing gaskets are installed between the pipes and the head.

We place an improvised stop (a nut, but preferably a wooden block) under the valve.

We dry out the valve (see Replacing the oil seals of the gas distribution mechanism ).

We remove the valve from the guide sleeve.

Apply lapping paste to the valve plate.

We install the valve in place. We put a lapping device on the valve stem.

Pressing the valve plate against the seat, we turn it alternately in one direction or the other.

If necessary, for easy access to the outer valves, use a 13mm wrench to unscrew the two outer studs, having previously locked two nuts on them.

We continue grinding the valve until a smooth matte rim appears on the seat and chamfer of the valve plate.

After thoroughly washing, we install the valve in place, replacing the oil seal cap (see Replacing the oil seal caps of the gas distribution mechanism ).

Use a 12mm socket to unscrew the bushing.

. and remove it along with the adjusting bolt and locknut. If necessary, we replace them.

Use a metal ruler to check the mating plane of the cylinder head. The permissible gap is 0.15 mm.

The cylinder head is one of the vehicle components that requires high-quality maintenance, otherwise repairs simply cannot be avoided. How to repair, bore and modify the cylinder head of a VAZ 2106 with your own hands at home? How to dismantle and install the cylinder head? We will tell you about this with photos and videos in this article.

Installing the cylinder head

Now a few words about installing the cylinder head back onto the block. Firstly, be sure to replace the gasket, since it is installed only once. Of course, you must first clean the block and the surface of the head from traces of old gaskets. I did this using a special Dutch-made Ombra gasket remover, applying this liquid to the entire surface of the cylinder head:

As a result, after about 10 minutes of waiting and careful work with a regular clothes brush, you get a fairly noticeable result. For comparison, I decided to do it as follows: I cleaned the first three combustion chambers with various means, from gasoline to WD-40, and the last one with this special tool. You can see the result clearly:

After all this is done, you can begin to install the cylinder head back. In order to do this, you will need a special torque wrench, since these bolts must be tightened with a certain torque in the following order:

• First technique: moment of force from 33-41 N*m.
• The second is from 95 to 118 N*m.

It is also worth noting that the following order must be observed:

We install all the removed parts in the reverse order and finally assemble the VAZ 2106 engine. This is how you can remove the cylinder head yourself and install it back. I wish you success.