Why is there no spark at the spark plugs?

The other day, out of the blue, the car (Kalina 1.6, 8 valves) began to shake terribly. Diagnostics showed misfires in cylinders 1 and 4. After a little checking (see how to check correctly here), I came to the conclusion that there was no spark . And only in cylinders 1-4.

Next, in order to find out the reason for the loss of spark, I will go in order.

The first thing to check is the spark plugs. The spark plug looked normal, so I didn’t have much hope that replacing it would fix the situation. And so it happened - the new spark plug still refused to produce a spark.

The second is checking high-voltage wires. They are checked with a conventional multimeter in resistance measurement mode. The resistance should be within 15 kOhm. The wires also turned out to be fine.

Third, and probably most important, is the ignition coil. She, like no one else, is responsible for the spark. Its operability is also checked with a multimeter in continuity and resistance measurement mode. First you need to check the resistance between pins 1-4 and 2-3. It should be about 4 kOhm. If the tester shows infinity, then the coil is broken and must be completely replaced. Next, check the resistance between pins 1a and 1b. There shouldn't be a break here. And the last thing is to check the central contact for breakdown to the housing. The tester should show infinity.

My reel passed the test perfectly. It seems that all the main parts are working properly, so why is there no spark? After digging a little on the Internet, I realized that I still need to check the circuit from the ECU to the coil itself.

A 3-pin chip is placed on the ignition coil, therefore you need to check these 3 wires. The central contact is +12V, which is constantly supplied when the ignition is on. The extreme contacts - 1a and 1b - provide a control signal (negative) at the moment when a spark is needed. How can all this be checked? Very simple - using a regular light bulb.

You need a lamp with a power of 1-2 W or an LED with an additional resistance of 500-700 Ohms.

We connect the lamp to the central terminal and contact 1a and ask a partner to crank the engine a little (first remove the fuel pump fuse and relieve the pressure in the rail). When cranking the starter, the lamp should flash. The same procedure must be done with pin 1b - the lamp should also blink.

When I turned on the ignition, the lamp started to light up, just constantly on (pin 1b and central). This means that the control wire has a short to ground somewhere or that the transistor (VT1) in the ECU is broken. To find out, we need to find the ECU, disconnect the wiring harness from it, find the wires we need (1b) and test them for integrity.

Having found the contact diagram, I found out that contact 1b goes to pin 5 of the ECU, 1a goes to pin 2, 3 goes to ground of the ignition circuit. I rang them for integrity - they were all intact. I called ground and everything is fine too. Therefore, you need to check the transistor in the controller itself.

My car has a January 7.2 controller. Inside there are 2 transistors that pass control signals to pins 1a and 1b of the ignition coil. So one of these transistors was broken, i.e. was constantly in the open position.

How to check the transistor for serviceability? It has 3 pins - 2 of which are soldered. It is necessary to ring each outer terminal with the central one. In both cases, the tester should not beep. The contacts must not be closed.

Now all that’s left to do is to unsolder the broken transistor (its marking is gb10nb37lz), solder a new one in its place and rejoice at the spark that appears.

No spark VAZ (injector, 8 valves)

The other day, out of the blue, the car (Kalina 1.6, 8 valves) began to shake terribly. Diagnostics showed misfires in cylinders 1 and 4. After a little checking (see how to check correctly here), I came to the conclusion that there was no spark .
And only in cylinders 1-4. Next, in order to find out the reason for the loss of spark, I will go in order.

The first thing to check is the spark plugs. The spark plug looked normal, so I didn’t have much hope that replacing it would fix the situation. And so it happened - the new spark plug still refused to produce a spark.

The second is checking high-voltage wires. They are checked with a conventional multimeter in resistance measurement mode. The resistance should be within 15 kOhm. The wires also turned out to be fine.

Third, and probably most important, is the ignition coil. She, like no one else, is responsible for the spark. Its operability is also checked with a multimeter in continuity and resistance measurement mode. First you need to check the resistance between pins 1-4 and 2-3. It should be about 4 kOhm. If the tester shows infinity, then the coil is broken and must be completely replaced. Next, check the resistance between pins 1a and 1b. There shouldn't be a break here. And the last thing is to check the central contact for breakdown to the housing. The tester should show infinity.

My reel passed the test perfectly. It seems that all the main parts are working properly, so why is there no spark? After digging a little on the Internet, I realized that I still need to check the circuit from the ECU to the coil itself.

A 3-pin chip is placed on the ignition coil, therefore you need to check these 3 wires. The central contact is +12V, which is constantly supplied when the ignition is on. The extreme contacts - 1a and 1b - provide a control signal (negative) at the moment when a spark is needed. How can all this be checked? Very simple - using a regular light bulb.

You need a lamp with a power of 1-2 W or an LED with an additional resistance of 500-700 Ohms.

We connect the lamp to the central terminal and contact 1a and ask a partner to crank the engine a little (first remove the fuel pump fuse and relieve the pressure in the rail). When cranking the starter, the lamp should flash. The same procedure must be done with pin 1b - the lamp should also blink.

When I turned on the ignition, the lamp started to light up, just constantly on (pin 1b and central). This means that the control wire has a short to ground somewhere or that the transistor (VT1) in the ECU is broken. To find out, we need to find the ECU, disconnect the wiring harness from it, find the wires we need (1b) and test them for integrity.

Having found the contact diagram, I found out that contact 1b goes to pin 5 of the ECU, 1a goes to pin 2, 3 goes to ground of the ignition circuit. I rang them for integrity - they were all intact. I called ground and everything is fine too. Therefore, you need to check the transistor in the controller itself.

My car has a January 7.2 controller. Inside there are 2 transistors that pass control signals to pins 1a and 1b of the ignition coil. So one of these transistors was broken, i.e. was constantly in the open position.

How to check the transistor for serviceability? It has 3 pins - 2 of which are soldered. It is necessary to ring each outer terminal with the central one. In both cases, the tester should not beep. The contacts must not be closed.

Now all that’s left to do is to unsolder the broken transistor (its marking is gb10nb37lz), solder a new one in its place and rejoice at the spark that appears.

Kalina won't start, the starter won't turn

Burnt starter commutator, stuck brushes or severe wear

Open or short circuit in the starter armature winding

Reasons why the Lada Kalina may not start?

Lada Kalina has been in production for more than ten years, and is being improved, acquiring new functions and bells and whistles, but drivers of new cars may have problems.

The most common reason why any car may not start, and the Lada Kalina is no exception, is low quality fuel. Many drivers began to notice that after filling the car with gasoline, it began to lose momentum. It seems that everyone would fill up with low-quality gasoline, the car would become capricious, but this could lead to unpleasant consequences - repair of the fuel system, which is not very cheap, or even worse, repair of the engine itself. Low-quality gasoline also has a detrimental effect on the electronic system, since it contains a lot of different impurities, and the electronics are very sensitive. Actually, we have come to the second most common reason why the Lada Kalina may not start - this is a failure of the electronic system. Modern injectors that are installed on Lada Kalina cars are still very far from perfect; they are very sensitive to factors such as fuel, moisture, air.

If these are not the first two reasons, then it’s worth taking a deeper look; it may not be a high-quality fuel pump. Very often, owners of VAZ cars have complaints about it, and the Lada Kalina is no exception. The good news is that a new fuel pump is not expensive and can be easily replaced. Signs of a fuel pump malfunction may include: 1) the car does not start the first time; 2) to start the engine you have to crank the starter for a long time.

Another problem is the spark problem. Many motorists save on buying high-quality spark plugs, without thinking about the important role spark plugs play. Good engine starting and stable operation directly depend on the spark plugs. If your “swallow” starts and stalls, or you hear that the engine is shaking, there is a problem with the spark plugs. If the spark plugs are ok, check the starter. It’s worth listening to how it works, to see if it makes any characteristic clicks.

In this article we have highlighted the most common reasons why the Lada Kalina may not start. The most important thing is to keep an eye on your car and pass it during maintenance. maintenance and try to refuel only at proven gas stations with higher quality gasoline.

Kalina won't start, the starter turns

Lada Kalina won't start: reasons, how to fix it - AutoExpert

Regardless of the patriotic mood, few will argue that the Lada Kalina is still far from Mercedes or BMW. The point here is not so much in design and appearance, but also in the fact that domestic cars often have to be repaired immediately after purchase.

on which the Lada Kalina does not start the first time, and every year it gets worse and worse. The cause and treatment are considered.

The main culprits of the engine not starting

So what to do if Kalina does not start and does not turn the starter? There are many reasons. Some problems can be fixed on your own, while others can only be fixed at specialized service stations.

Immobilizer

Not all Kalinas have the immobilizer activated from the factory, but you can disable it if you are afraid of its glitches. If you do not have it activated, then this problem should not affect you.

This may be the first reason why the car won't start. You can fix it yourself. If the immobilizer starts blinking, then in order to understand the specific cause of the malfunction you need to sit down and read the manual: what each light means, as well as the frequency of flashes and buzzers. In the cold season, the car can only be started after 5-6 times.

The photo shows a red key for clarity. The red block in the photo is a memory element for the immobilizer; it can become out of sync or break.

This problem can be solved by reflashing the key.

Starter

In the case when the previous system is in good condition, another reason why the car does not start may be the starter. Only a deaf person would fail to notice that this unit is not working.

Starter under the hood of Kalina. Check the power to the starter, circled in red.

If the starter does not make any sounds when turning the ignition key, the battery may also be discharged. When, after checking the starter relay and, if necessary, recharging the battery, the starter does not spin, then most likely it is not working.

There may be a breakdown in the unit itself or in the wiring. To check whether voltage is being supplied to the starter, you need to use a voltmeter. After connecting to the car network, it should have 12-14 volts. Cleaning the contacts will also help here.

If this does not help, then you should go to a service station.

Control unit (ECU)

This is also a common reason why the engine will not start. Usually, if you don't touch it, there are no problems with it. Often the unit can fail when it is flooded with water. This is a design flaw, or rather a flaw in the location of the ECU (a known problem with Kalin).

The ECU in Kalina is located at the bottom; due to leaks during rain, it can easily be flooded with water

In this case, the block will have to be replaced completely. To protect yourself, you should insulate it well or move it to another place under the hood. You cannot wrap the block in polyethylene, as it will fail due to condensation.

Candles

Condition of the candles in the photo

They are usually flooded in the cold season. This can also happen when the battery is weak. In this case, you need to dry the candles. They can be cleaned from carbon deposits with a toothbrush. The gap should also be kept within 0.8-1 millimeter. You can also use a hairdryer. If you have spare spark plugs, you can replace them.

Fuel

It can also be the reason why the engine will not start. To protect yourself from low-quality fuel, you need to refuel your car only at time-tested gas stations.

Fuel pump and relay

The fuel pump is universal and fits all models of the VAZ family.

If the engine does not start when the starter cranks the engine, then the cause may be the fuel pump and it needs to be replaced. You need to open the hood and find the cap to the left of the injectors. When you press it, gasoline should spray out. When gasoline enters the engine, it is not the fuel pump. The relay may fail.

Lada Kalina does not start when cold

1. If the crankshaft rotates slowly, the battery may be discharged or the engine oil may be frozen.
2. The vehicle's fuel system is faulty. The water in the ramp may have frozen.
3. The coolant temperature sensor (DTOZH) of the engine management system is faulty.
4. Fuel injectors are leaking.
5. Low compression in cylinders.
6. The engine control system is faulty. Run diagnostics.

Let us remind you that regular vehicle maintenance will help eliminate engine starting problems.

Source: xn--80aal0a.xn--80asehdb

Why Lada Kalina does not start, causes of malfunctions

December 25, 2014 Lada.Online 168 548
To ensure that the engine starts, an electric spark must appear, igniting the air-fuel mixture in the engine cylinders at the right moment. Problems with starting the engine occur if one or more elements of the system fail. Do you know how to determine why a Lada Granta car won’t start?

Kalina won't start, the starter won't turn

Possible malfunction Diagnostics Remedy

Battery is low	The voltage at the battery terminals with consumers turned off is less than 12V. When trying to start the car, a crashing sound is heard from under the hood.	Charge the battery or replace it with a new one
Oxidation of battery terminals or wire terminals, their fit is not tight	When you try to start the engine, the voltage in the on-board network drops much more than at the battery terminals. In this case, a crash may be heard under the hood.	Clean the contacts, lubricate them with petroleum jelly and tighten the terminals
The engine or attachments are jammed	Check the rotation of the crankshaft, coolant pump and alternator pulley.	Repair engine, generator, pump
The starter is faulty, the starter drive gear or flywheel ring teeth are damaged	Inspect the starter after removal.	Repair or replace starter
The starter switching circuit or starter relay is faulty, the wires are damaged, or the ignition switch contacts do not close	When the key is turned to position “II”, the starter traction relay does not operate (a click is not heard under the hood). Check the +12V supply to the control contact of the traction relay.	Replace starter relay, wires, ignition switch
The starter traction relay is faulty, there is a short circuit or break in the retractor winding, the relay armature is stuck	When the key is turned to position “II”, the traction relay does not operate (there is no click under the hood), but + 12V is supplied to the control contact of the traction relay. Remove the relay and check its operation.	Replace the traction relay
Contacts or wires of the traction relay are oxidized, poor ground contact	When the starter is turned on, a clicking sound is heard under the hood, but the starter armature does not rotate. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance of the Battery-Starter circuit, as well as the ground wire. If the circuit is in good condition, remove the starter and check the operation of the traction relay by applying +12V to it from the battery	Tighten the terminals, clean the contacts, replace the traction relay
Open or short circuit in the holding winding of the traction relay	When you try to start the engine, you hear a crashing sound under the hood. The battery voltage is within normal limits. We check the traction relay with an ohmmeter or by its excessive heating.	Replace the traction relay
Burnt starter commutator, stuck brushes or severe wear Open or short circuit in the starter armature winding	The starter armature rotates slowly or does not rotate at all. Check the traction relay by applying voltage to the starter contact bolt directly from the battery	Replace starter or armature
Freewheel slipping	When the starter is turned on, the armature rotates, the flywheel is stationary	Replace clutch or starter

Kalina won't start, the starter turns

Possible malfunction Diagnostics Remedy

Fuel tank empty	The needle on the fuel gauge is at zero.	Pour gasoline
Battery is low	The voltage at the battery terminals with consumers turned off is less than 12V. When trying to start the car, a crashing sound is heard from under the hood.	Charge the battery or replace it with a new one
Oxidation of battery terminals or wire terminals, their fit is not tight	When you try to start the engine, the voltage in the on-board network drops much more than at the battery terminals. In this case, a crash may be heard under the hood.	Clean the contacts, lubricate them with petroleum jelly and tighten the terminals
Unreliable connection of electrical circuits of engine control and power supply systems	Check the connections of the connectors and the reliability of the contacts in the blocks.	Fix faulty wire connections
Increased resistance to rotation of the crankshaft (scores on the shafts, bearing shells, cylinder-piston parts, deformation of the shafts, frozen engine oil, jammed generator, jammed coolant pump)	The crankshaft turns slowly. If the engine is started in severe frost, and the engine was working properly the day before, then most likely the engine oil has frozen. If you hear extraneous noise when starting the engine, check the free rotation of the pump and generator pulleys.	Use the recommended engine oil. Repair the engine. Replace the pump and generator.
Malfunction in the ignition system	Check for spark.	Check the circuits and devices of the ignition system. Replace faulty system elements.
The high voltage wires are connected in the wrong order or the wire is disconnected	Inspect.	Connect the wires in the correct order
The timing belt is broken or the belt teeth are cut off	Open the front timing cover and check.	Replace timing belt
Disturbed valve timing	Check the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys.	Set the correct shaft position
Malfunction of the computer (brains), its circuits, crankshaft position sensor or coolant temperature	Check the supply of +12V to the ECU, the sensor circuit, and the absence of damage to the sensors themselves.	Replace ECU, sensors.
The idle speed controller or its circuit is faulty	Check the idle air control. When starting the engine, lightly press the gas pedal. If the engine starts and stalls when you release the gas pedal, the sensor is faulty.	Replace sensor
The fuse is blown or the main relay of the control system is faulty	Check fuse and relay.	Eliminate the cause of the blown fuse. Replace fuse and relay
Fuse blown, fuel pump relay. Circuit, relay or pump is faulty.	When the ignition is turned on, there is no sound of the pump running. Check the fuse. Apply voltage to the pump from the battery.	Clean contacts, replace faulty circuits, replace fuse, pump and relay.
The fuel filter is dirty, the water in the fuel line is frozen, the fuel line is damaged	Check the pressure in the fuel rail and the condition of the fuel lines.	Replace the filter, blow out or replace the fuel lines.
Insufficient pressure in the fuel rail	Check the pressure in the fuel rail, the pump strainer and the condition of the fuel lines.	Clean the filter. Replace pump, fuel pressure regulator
Faulty injectors or their power supply circuits	Check the injector windings with an ohmmeter. Check the chains for breaks.	Replace injectors, replace chains
Air leak into the intake tract	Inspect the joints and fittings of the hoses and clamps. During start-up, turn off the vacuum brake booster and plug the receiver fitting.	Eliminate air leaks, replace vacuum booster

Lada Kalina starts and immediately stalls

1. Ignition coil electrical connections are loose or damaged.
2. Insufficient pressure in the fuel rail.
3. The connections of the intake tract parts are not tight (catalytic manifold or intake manifold receiver).
4. The engine control system is faulty. Run diagnostics.

Missing spark

MISSING SPARK

So, the engine won't start? In previous conversations, we figured out how to check the electrical circuits of the fuel pump and injectors. Well, what to do if the control signal does not arrive at them? Let's start “from the stove” - the master disk. This is a gear wheel combined with a generator drive pulley (2 in photo 1). If it turns (for example, a rubber damper has peeled off), the engine will not be able to start. Perhaps you will use the experience of those who talked about this in ZR, 2003, No. 4. Otherwise, you need a new pulley.

Let's assume that the pulley with the toothed disk is in order. Then let's move on to the electrical part. If there is no spark at the same time at the spark plug and a signal at the injector, then with a high degree of probability the crankshaft position sensor (DPKV - 1 in photo 1) or its circuit is to blame. Not receiving a signal from this sensor, the controller regards the situation as an engine stop and interrupts control of the injectors and the ignition module.

To check the performance of the DPKV, remove the high-voltage wire from the spark plug of any cylinder, insert a working spark plug into the tip (possibly from a spare one) and, placing it on ground, turn on the starter. Is there a spark and signal at the injector? This means that the DPKV and its circuit are working properly and the spark plugs may need to be replaced. During this check, a reliable connection of the spark plug body to ground is extremely important, otherwise the high voltage will break through the insulation of the secondary winding of the ignition module and that will be the end of it. And for a new one you will pay about 1,500 rubles. If you do this together, then you must press the spark plug body tightly against the “ground” (for example, a valve cover), after which your assistant will turn the ignition key. And not vice versa. If you work alone, the spark plug must be secured so that the spark can be seen even from the driver’s seat. We show one of the options for fixing the spark plug in photo 2: a wire connects its threaded part to ground.

...What if there is no spark? Then we’ll check the DPKV itself. Its signal is an alternating voltage, which when cranked by the starter is about 4.5 V. How can you verify this? It is best to use a simple device - a DPKV connector with two wires.

Having disconnected the harness block from the DPKV, replace it with a connector with wires, connect a multimeter to them, switch it to the AC voltage measurement mode and turn on the starter. No signal? The sensor is at fault. Is the AC voltage around 4.5V? The sensor is ok. But perhaps its circuit is faulty. In this case, let’s check the signal coming from the DPKV to the controller contacts (diagram 1).

Having removed the negative terminal from the battery, disconnect the harness block from the controller, connect a multimeter to pins 48 and 49 of the harness block, then restore the connection between the battery and ground and crank the crankshaft with the starter. The voltage is normal, which means there is a defect in the controller itself. No signal - the sensor circuit is damaged.

It is possible that a signal is sent to the injector, but there is no spark at the spark plug. Then the ignition module circuit comes under suspicion. We remove the connector from it and turn on the ignition - voltage from the battery is supplied to contact D (photo 3 - first on the right). No 12V? We check if there is a break in the 68GP wire (diagram 2). Is there 12 V? We check the ground circuit of the module (this is contact C - second from the right in photo 3).

Most often, chain damage occurs. Failures of the controller itself are quite rare, and as for the ignition module, if the insulation of one of the secondary coils is broken, the engine, although on two cylinders, will work.

So, the algorithm is very simple: fuel pump - checking the spark on the spark plugs - checking the signal on the injectors.

Source: www.zr.ru

The main reasons why there may be no spark

1. First of all, make sure that there is no dust, dirt, oil stains, etc. on the ignition system elements. If any of the above is present, take a rag and wipe everything thoroughly, or blow it out with compressed air, and then try to check the spark again and start the engine.
2. The spark plugs are faulty (“flooded”, insulator burst, breakdown, etc.). Check the spark plugs individually and make sure there really is no spark. If there is no spark on all the spark plugs, then the reason is most likely not in the spark plugs, but in the coil or, for example, the starter. Read: how to check the starter here. If there is a spark, but it is weak or yellow, check the coil or BB wires.
3. The problem is in high voltage wires (HV wires). This could be a break, a ground fault, or poor contact. Carry out a detailed inspection of the explosive wires, make sure that there are no cracks or fractures on their surface. Move the wires and try to start the engine, if the engine starts or at least tries, most likely the reason lies in the wires. Details on how to check BB wires.
4. Malfunction of the ignition module or ignition coil. how to check the ignition coil here.
5. The crankshaft sensor has failed, read here how to check.
6. The problem is in the switch, distributor, incorrect clearance, burnt contacts.
7. There is no contact on the ground wire or it is very bad.
8. ECU malfunctions.

Methods for checking spark on spark plugs:

1. Check for weight;
2. Using a multimeter;
3. Using a tester based on a piezoelectric element.

Lada Kalina won't start

Added by avtorin on 01/06/2018

Lada Kalina will not start - a common problem for car owners, especially after 100 thousand miles. The reasons can be very different, and so can the solutions. Why the Lada Kalina won’t start, as well as small diagnostic tricks, are in the article.

The content of the article:

All cases when Kalina does not start can be divided into several groups. So to speak,

what is needed in order to narrow down the troubleshooting range as much as possible. In addition, if you understand individual points, then it is easier to imagine the operation of the system in general.

No gasoline

Of course, for normal mixture formation you need fuel and a spark, in the case of gasoline engines. Therefore, let's pay attention to this point.

So, the first thing you should pay attention to if the Lada Kalina does not start is the operation of the fuel pump when the ignition is turned on. It should work, especially if the car was parked before. If the fuel pump does not work, first of all, check the integrity of the fuse; it is located next to the diagnostic connector, on the central tunnel. We need the middle one.

The next step is to check the fuel pump relay. It is very easy to check - turn on the ignition and listen for a click. If there is one, then feel free to go under the back seat, arm yourself with a multimeter or test light, and then connect to the connector instead of the fuel pump. Gray is a plus, black is mass. We turn on the ignition, the lamp should light up, if it doesn’t light up, then we look for a break along the path from the fuse block to the tank. But in general, most likely, it will catch fire, then we change the pump and the Lada Kalina starts and drives.

But it also happens that the Lada Kalina does not start, but the fuel pump works. It is worth clarifying that a working fuel pump does not mean that fuel is getting into the cylinders. If the starter turns, unscrew the spark plugs and look, they should be damp. If they are dry, then turn on the ignition, unscrew the cap on the fuel rail and briefly press the spool. It should hit you with a stream of gasoline.

If it doesn’t hit, we find the fuel pressure regulator (FPR), hit it a couple of times with a 13-14 key, sometimes they stick. If this does not help, we clamp the return line that goes from it to the fuel tank. Then turn on the ignition again and again (with the return line pinched) press the spool. If the fuel does not hit again, we change the fuel filter and the mesh in the tank. This will help. If it hits, it means that the RTD does not hold pressure in the ramp; it must be replaced.

If the Lada Kalina does not start, there is pressure in the fuel rail, this means that the injectors simply do not open. First, let's start with something simple - look at the crankshaft position sensor. The fact is that the control unit receives pulse signals from it, after which, in accordance with these signals, it sends pulses to the injectors. They are controlled by a minus, that is, when the ignition is turned on, they should constantly receive a plus through a common black and pink wire. There is almost always power on it, if not, we look for a break to the ECU.

If there is power, look at the crankshaft position sensor and the drive disc on the pulley. It happens, it comes off the damper and scrolls. In this case, the control unit does not understand what position the crankshaft is in, and a discrepancy with the camshaft position sensor leads to the Kalina not starting. We read how to check the crankshaft position sensor, as well as the connector to it, this is generally a disease.

No spark

As has already become clear, the first thing to do if Kalina does not start is to check the fuses and unscrew the spark plugs. They will tell you if there is fuel. Now let's consider a situation when the Lada Kalina does not start, the starter turns, there is gasoline, but there is no spark.

This is easy to check. We take either a spare spark plug or unscrew it from the cylinder. Then we put one candlestick on it and place it on the block head. Next, ask an assistant to turn the starter and watch for a spark.

The operating principle of the system is as follows. Based on the readings of the DPKV (crankshaft sensor), the processor opens the transistors installed in the ECU, there are two of them. The first is for 1.4 cylinders, the second is for 2.3 cylinders. After the transistor has opened, a short-term minus is supplied to the ignition module, despite the fact that there is always a plus on it. With a short-term passage of current through the primary winding, an induction current of the order of 13-17 kV is formed on the secondary. Then the current flows through the high-voltage wires, and then strikes a spark between the electrodes of the spark plug.

Accordingly, diagnostics of the Lada Kalina ignition system is divided into several stages. Firstly, look at the gap in the spark plugs, it should be 1.1 mm. The best spark plugs for the Kalinovsky eight-valve engine are A17DVRM. They are cheap, 300 rubles per set, but they do not last more than 15 thousand. On the other hand, at this price they can be changed every 10 thousand. In return you will get stable starting, smooth operation and good traction.

Then we take a multimeter and check the resistance of the high-voltage wires. It should not exceed 10 kOhm on the longest and 5 kOhm on the shortest wire. Well, now the most interesting thing - the ignition module. Of course, ideally it should be diagnosed using a motor tester, but not every city has one. Therefore, to begin with, we remove the chip from the module, insert the multimeter probe into the central wire, then the second one to ground and turn on the ignition. It should be 12 volts. If not, we look for a break with the ECU or change the ECU.

If we are talking about an ignition module with a 4-pin block, then the voltage is measured on the first or second pin. Next, we measure the resistance of the primary coil (where the chip fits). It should be about 1.2 kOhm; it’s unlikely to be measured more accurately. Then we measure the resistance of the secondary winding of the coils. It should be approximately the same, but there is no exact figure. Each manufacturer has its own and can vary from 7 to 12 kOhm.

There is a spark, there is gasoline, the starter turns

In this case, it is unlikely that there is a problem with mixture formation. Most often, the problem lies in decreased compression due to wheel wear or valve burnout. Normal compression should be at least 12 atmospheres. Again, you also need to look at the DPKV, as well as the master disk. Of course, it is easier to determine such moments using a scanner, at least an ELM.

Lada Kalina does not start, the starter does not turn

In this case, first of all, you need to find out the battery voltage and bring it back to normal. Next, turn the key and listen to see if the relay clicks. If it clicks, it means that voltage is supplied to it from the ignition switch. If not, it is better to replace the starter relay with a known good one.

If the Lada Kalina does not start, the starter clicks but does not turn, then first you should try knocking on the starter while an assistant clicks it. Most likely the starter will seize at some point. In this case, you need to disassemble it and change the brushes, as well as clean the spots on the solenoid relay.

Source: avtorin.ru

conclusions

Loss of spark on a 16-valve VAZ-2112 may be a consequence of the failure of several vehicle components at once or each individually. But, if the operations indicated in the article did not help, then you should contact specialists at a car service center who will accurately identify the cause and eliminate it.

It is unlikely that several nodes will fail at once. This has not happened in my practice. Unless, of course, you hit the car properly.

The ignition coil rarely fails because it is initially reliable. But the spark plugs and fuel pump often fail.

Even if the timing phase is off, there should be a spark!

There will be a spark, but not at the right time when the air-fuel mixture arrives.

the article sucks. wrote the teapot. Moreover, the pump and the spark, and the timing belt. even with a broken timing belt there will be a spark. Kettle...boil somewhere else

What does the fuel pump and broken phases have to do with it? The author is in the furnace.

Wrote 100% who themselves have no idea what they are writing, if on the 12th engine if the spark disappears completely, then 80% is the module, and then 5% each of the crankshaft sensor, ignition switch, ECU and a break in the bus from the brain to the module or crankshaft all

Oh yes, I almost forgot the immobilizer and the signaling may be glitchy

I have a VAZ 2110 2001. First, the fuel pump failed, I found and eliminated the cause; the spark disappeared from the fuel pump; I can’t find the cause yet.

Still haven't found the spark?

I have the same problem. What helped in the end?

Guys, such garbage, no spark, no prior, crankshaft sensor called, coils too, they put another prior on mine and vice versa, I tried everything and it’s not there??

You write specifically for not all kinds of bullshit.

but there is a spark from the central one, that is, it goes to the distributor, but from the spark plug... oops! Everything was replaced with new ones, BREMI, and it’s still there!

Hello everyone, I have a 2112 16 valve, I turn the starter on the dashboard, all the lower indicators are blinking and the relay is knocking on the right side at the bottom, the car won’t start, I checked the spark and it hits every other time, can the module show off like that?

Exactly the same problem. Didn't find a solution?

Charge the battery, everything will be fine

VAZ 21124 1.6 16kl engine 124 The cylinder head gasket in the 4th cylinder was broken. I dismantled it, cleaned everything, washed it properly, ground the valve, changed the gasket and reassembled it, and now, disappointingly, the engine does not start, there is a spark, there is also fuel. Ignition is normal. The motor sat disassembled for a month. Having rummaged around on your website, I found the reason for the installation, due to inattention, I mixed up the camshafts. Because of my carelessness, I had to re-open the engine and, as it turned out, the truth justified itself. I swapped the camshafts, fortunately the valves on my engine don’t bend. I cleaned the old sealant, degreased it, applied a new one, and assembled everything in the reverse order. And as a result, the engine also does not start, I was upset about my work, it seemed like I was doing everything according to the instructions. This time the reason was the lack of fuel and spark. I racked my brain and checked everything several times but to no avail. I had to resort to this site again, and still found the reason, I started the engine with an uninstalled generator drive pulley. Eliminated the cause, everything was fine, the engine started, everything is normal, thanks for the information

Immobilizer

If the car refuses to start, then this is one of the possible reasons. You can notice problems in the operation of this system yourself. If the corresponding icon blinks on the dashboard and a characteristic beeping sound is heard, then you should read the operating instructions. If the Lada Kalina does not start, the immobilizer is a common problem. The problem is not easy to fix. In the instructions for the car, the manufacturer indicates the decoding of sounds and blinking lights - the car owner needs to count the time between flashes, the number of buzzer signals, and then read what the manufacturer writes about this.

How and why the immobilizer fails

Let's dwell on this topic in a little more detail. The thing is that the ECU controller on this model is located under the heater radiator. In second-generation models, the controller was moved.

First of all, when exposed to liquid, the output switch burns out. The chip can be re-soldered, but after such repairs the problems will go away for literally two months, and then they will appear again. The heater radiator will need to be replaced. If this problem exists, then experts recommend installing a new controller between the engine compartment partition and the stove.

Now about the immobilizer - in Kalina cars the manufacturer installs APS-6 immobilizers. In very rare cases, these devices fail on their own. Often, the problem is hidden in the wiring or control panel. The key fob body is held together with one self-tapping screw - the screw can be overtightened or undertightened. A crack appears on the remote device chip between the transponder contacts. In this case, if the Kalina does not start, only a spare or training key, or replacing the remote control will help.

Checking for spark

Let's say your fuel-injected car has stopped responding to the ignition key and refuses to start. It is quite irrational to immediately complain about a malfunction in the ignition system. First of all, you need to make sure that it is the spark that has disappeared and not something else that has broken. To check spark plugs for the presence of the coveted “light”, you can resort to several procedures at once. Perhaps the most effective and simple ones are the following:

• The first method is a mass test. To implement it, you need to turn off the ignition, unscrew each spark plug in turn and, placing its body against ground (the metal body of the engine), try to start the engine;
• The second method is checking with a multimeter or a tester based on a piezoelectric element. This diagnostic option is quite similar to the method described above, except that the spark plug is applied not to ground, but to the contacts of the tester or multimeter. However, in this case there is no need to “turn” the starter; the spark must come from the devices themselves.

Starter

The immobilizer has been checked and does not give any alarms, but the engine still does not want to start. Another reason for this behavior is the starter. It’s easy to notice a problem with the starter – you won’t hear the characteristic sound of the engine starting. The mechanism simply does not spin, which means the engine will not be able to start. Everything is clear here - you need to remove and check the starter.

If the Kalina does not start, the starter does not turn, then the first reason may be the battery. It may simply be discharged. If the lights in the cabin and on the dashboard are not lit, the driver will be able to immediately notice this. However, it often happens that everything is in order, but the starter still does not work. For diagnostics, turn on the high beams and get out of the car. Dim headlights are due to the battery. It is discharged, but only to a critical level, when there is not enough power to turn the starter.

If the Kalina does not start, the starter does not turn, the best way out of this situation is to charge the battery. But if the headlights are bright in high beam mode and are not going to dim, then you will have to look for the reason elsewhere.

Starter or wiring problems

You can use a multimeter to test the wiring. The red wire is connected to the starter contact, the black wire to ground. In a normal situation, the device will show from 12.5 to 14.5 V. If the reading is less or even zero, then there is something wrong with the wiring.

The first step is to clean the contacts, check the integrity of the wires and fuses.

This is another popular problem when Kalina does not start. ECUs are the “brains” of the car; they themselves are quite reliable, and if you don’t touch them, then no problems will happen. However, most often the ECU is flooded.

This often happens when antifreeze leaks. This has already been discussed in the section on the immobilizer. When installing an alarm system or when pulling car wires, they forget to install the plugs - water gets into the ECU. Repairing an electronic unit is a futile task.

Gasoline pump

The vagaries of the fuel pump are often observed, especially in winter. The starter works, but the Kalina car refuses to start, the fuel pump cannot be heard, and an exclamation mark may flash on the dashboard.

First of all, check the pressure in the fuel system. To do this, open the hood and look for the cap on the ramp with the injectors. You can see the nipple there - if you press it, fuel should spray out. If it splashes, then the problem is not with the fuel pump.

Another reason is the relay. There is a cover in the transmission tunnel on the passenger side. It contains power coils. To eliminate the malfunction, just knock or warm them up.

If the fuel pump does not work, then you need to get to it and check the voltage. If the multimeter shows about 12 V, then the fuel pump is working. If not, then it is worth checking the fuses, as well as the relays.

Why does the coil not produce a spark?

Among the reasons that the vehicle does not want to start are:

• fuel does not flow to the carburetor;
• no spark from the coil;
• the current signal does not reach the coil;
• the ignition distributor is broken;
• there is no spark between the spark plug electrodes;
• no current flows to the toggle switch.

In addition, sometimes it happens that the operation of the power unit is blocked by the starter. But, first of all, you should inspect the winding of the electric motor. Perhaps there are cliffs there. If not, then, for the most part, the starter will be fine. In this case, you should inspect the coil.