Tightening the handbrake VAZ 2107. Adjusting the handbrake

How to tighten the handbrake of a VAZ 2107. Adjusting the handbrake

Locking the wheels when parking a car is the task of the parking or hand brake. It is more often used on bumpy road sections.

A well-adjusted handbrake should lock the car in one place when tightened by 4-6 teeth with a surface slope of 25%. If this does not happen, the parking brake needs to be adjusted or repaired.

The breakdown of the handbrake is a common occurrence, since it is enough to just start the car without removing it from the handbrake. In this case, the pads will wear off and will no longer reach the brake drum.

Reasons for failure of the VAZ 2107 handbrake

Most likely, the cause of the breakdown lies in a stretched or unadjusted handbrake cable. A tightening should be performed if the car does not lock even after 5-7 clicks. This procedure on a VAZ 2107 can be done no more than 4 times, after which the brake pads will need to be replaced.

Another source of handbrake malfunction may be cable looping due to moisture, rust, or dirt that gets on the cable while moving. This can be eliminated by cleaning the cable and lubricating it. If after some time the breakdown occurs again, the handbrake cable 2107 needs to be replaced .

How to change a torn or stretched parking brake cable on a VAZ classic

All work must be done in the same way as during adjustment, placing the car above the inspection ditch, or lifting it using a lift. There are also some pitfalls. The brake drums, which will have to be removed, are tightly “stuck” to the axle shaft flanges. Beating the drums themselves is more expensive, they are fragile and break easily. Therefore, we will do this: – by hanging the wheels, we will reliably strengthen the car from rolling in a way suitable for your conditions; – fourth gear, release the clutch, “accelerate” and sharply “hit” the brakes; – we repeat this “procedure” until the inertia tears the drums away from the flange; – we clean off the rust from the hub flange with a file - it interferes with pulling out the drum; – rocking from side to side, using wooden drifts, remove the drum. A protrusion on its inner side, formed over years of wear, can also prevent successful removal of the drum. Now, inspect what is inside - the pads and cylinders. Severe wear on the linings is a reason to replace the pads. The cylinders should not leak brake fluid, the boots should be intact without breaks. The cable sheath is bolted to the brake shield. You need to unscrew them very carefully, generously watering them with “Vedashka”, otherwise you will twist the “head” and will have to drill it out. Have you turned away? Wonderful! All that remains is to pull out the old cable and lay a new one in its place. We put everything else back together, and then, having installed the drums and wheels in place, we adjust the parking brake, as described above. Everything is ready, we have successfully replaced the parking brake cable of a VAZ classic. Video on this topic

Read, it might come in handy: Replacing rear brake pads: which ones are better, how to spread and install the spring, instructions with photos and videos
And one more thing

Also check out

• Self-replacement of the VAZ 2110 CV joint
• Instructions for replacing the VAZ 2115 wheel bearing at home
• How to replace the rear wheel bearing and brake drum of a VAZ 2114

In addition, to correct the breakdown, it is necessary to remove the jamming defect of the handbrake lever, and perhaps also the ratchet mechanism of the ratchet.

Therefore, before repairing the handbrake, you should make sure that it is adjusted correctly and that the cause of the problem is not in the cable. At the same time, the technical condition of the rear brakes, cable, and handbrake drive must be good.

Required tools:

• 2 keys for “13”;
• pliers;
• jack.

↑ Diagram of the brake system of the VAZ-2107 car

1 — brake disc; 2 — brake pedal; 3 - vacuum booster; 4 — master cylinder for hydraulic brakes; 5 — pipeline of the front brake drive circuit; 6 — front brake protective cover; 7 — front brake caliper; 8 - vacuum pipeline; 9 — master cylinder reservoir; 10 — parking brake lever button; 11 — parking brake drive lever; 12 — lever latch rod; 13 — lever latch; 14 — bracket for the parking brake drive lever; 15 — return lever; 16 — pipeline of the rear brake drive circuit; 17 — flange of the cable sheath tip; 18 — rear brake wheel cylinder; 19 — rear brake pressure regulator; 20 — pressure regulator drive lever; 21 — brake pads; 22 — lever for manual drive of the pads; 23 — rod of the pressure regulator drive lever; 24 — bracket for fastening the tip of the cable sheath; 25 — rear cable; 26 - lock nut; 27 — adjusting nut; 28 — bushing; 29 — rear cable guide; 30 — guide roller; 31 — front cable; 32 — parking brake warning lamp switch stop; 33 - brake light switch.

How to tighten the handbrake of a VAZ 2107 yourself

1. Place the car on a viewing hole or lift.
2. Jack up the rear of the car, hang the rear wheels (they should rotate freely).
3. Tighten the handbrake to the locking position (5-7 clicks).
4. Remove dirt from the adjusting bolt and handbrake nuts.
5. Using keys “13”, tighten (or loosen) the nut that adjusts the tension of the handbrake. It is worth pulling until the free rotation of the wheels stops (at this time you can make sure that there is no play or friction).

How to tighten the handbrake of a VAZ 2107. Adjusting the handbrake

1. After tightening the adjusting nut and locking the wheels, you need to tighten the adjusting nut completely. This will reduce the free play of the handbrake.
2. Make sure the wheels brake, then tighten the locknut.

How to tighten the handbrake of a VAZ 2107. Adjusting the handbrake

1. Lubricate the threaded holes (optionally, “Litolom” lubricant).
2. Make sure that the protective sheath of the hand rope is not damaged.

This the tightening of the VAZ 2107 handbrake .
All that remains is to lower the car from the jack and check the handbrake in action.

Replacing the handbrake: instructions

1. After dismantling the rear wheels and brake drums, you need to head into the pit and find the tension adjustment rod. This rod is equipped with a spring that must be unscrewed with a screwdriver.
2. Next, you need to unscrew the 2 nuts and begin dismantling the adjusting bar. Then the cables (rear and front) of the parking brake are dismantled.
3. Use a wrench to unscrew both nuts securing the brackets. The latter just prevent the cable from falling. There are screws under the nuts that prevent them from unscrewing unintentionally.
4. The next step is to remove the rear drums and then remove the springs that secure the brake pads. The latter are also timely to be replaced if they are worn out excessively.
5. Now you need to pull the cable. This way it will be possible to disengage it with the bracket where it rests.
6. Next you need to remove the brake pads. There is no need to remove both elements on the wheel. To replace the rear cable, you only need to remove one rear block.
7. On the opposite side of the brake shield of both wheels, you need to unscrew 2 mounting bolts, with which the cable tip is secured. After unscrewing both bolts, pull the cable.
8. Using a 10mm wrench, you now need to unscrew the front cable fastening brackets. When the bolt is unscrewed, carefully remove the roller. To do this, you will need to roll it forward in the direction of the tip.
9. To remove the front part of the mechanism, pull the device to remove it from the intermediate support and bracket structure.
10. Then you can get out of the inspection hole and head to the S7’s interior. The handbrake is kept in the down position throughout the entire process. While in the cabin, you need to unscrew the 2 screws that secure the handle trim.
11. So, there are 4 bolts under the cladding. They need to be unscrewed, and then proceed to dismantling the handle with the front cable.
12. To disconnect the cable fastener from the handle, use pliers to remove the small cotter pin that clamps the device to the parking brake handle.
13. Now the device can be removed from the car and a new cable can be installed. The installation procedure for both mechanisms is carried out in the reverse order of removal. After all, you need to fix them and move on to adjusting the tension.

Note

When installing the rear cable, it is important to remember that this part has both a right and a left side. On the right there is a rubber tube that serves as auxiliary insulation of the braid from the hot pipe of the resonator located nearby

The procedure for adjusting and replacing the parking brake cable is not as complicated as it seems. Any VAZ-2107 car owner can cope with the task.

In conclusion, we note that the process for replacing the handbrake cable is identical for both models of the VAZ family and for most types of cars.

↑ Parts of the parking brake drive

1 — cover; 2 — front cable; 3 - lever; 4 — button; 5 — thrust spring; 6 — latch rod; 7 — bushing; 8 - roller; 9 — rear cable guide; 10 — spacer sleeve; 11 — tension spring; 12 — spacer bar; 13 — lever for manual drive of the pads; 14 — rear cable; 15 — rear cable mounting bracket.

When installing, lubricate the rear cable guide, the axis of the parking brake lever, the roller bushing and the tip of the front cable with LITOL-24 or LSTs-15 grease.

• Carefully check the condition of the parking brake parts.
• If a break or fraying of the wires is detected, replace the cable with a new one.
• Make sure that the sector teeth and handle latches are not damaged; Replace parts that are too worn.
• Check the spring's condition. It should ensure that the lever returns to the non-working position.

Check the condition of the rear cable sheath and the fastening of the lugs on the sheath, and also make sure that the cable moves freely inside the sheath. If the sheath is damaged and the ends are loose, replace the cable.

Replacing the handbrake and front cable on a VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107

Removal

Remove the guide from the tip of our cable, for more details see the article: “Replacing the rear cable”, points 3-4.

Take a wrench and remove the bolt securing the roller to the bracket (the bracket is indicated by the blue arrow). Carefully remove the roller by rolling the roller towards the tip of the front cable, as shown in the figure, and remove it from the car.

Note! Be careful: inside the roller there is a bushing (number 3 in the photo below) and a fastening bolt (number 1). Don't let the parts fall and get lost.

We recommend using Litol-24 or LSC-15 lubricant, lubricating the contacting surfaces of the bushing itself (the surface is indicated by the letter B) and the surface of the roller (the letter A). To do this, remove the bushing from the socket.

Now pull the cable to the bottom and remove the cable from the bracket and the intermediate support of the cardan drive (indicated by the blue arrow).

Get out from under the bottom of the car and move into the interior. While inside the car, remove the two screws securing the handbrake trim, remove it and set it aside.

You will see four handbrake mounting bolts. By unscrewing them, you will remove the handbrake from the car along with the attached cable (front).

Note! If necessary, disconnect the cable from the handbrake: using pliers, remove the small cotter pin (looks like a small twisted wire inserted into the hole; a washer is placed under it, holding the parts in place) that goes into the hole indicated by the red arrow. Unfortunately, the hole is hard to see in the photo, but it is present in the so-called finger, where the cable tip is installed. Remove the cotter pin securing the end of the cable and remove the washer with the cable as shown in the figure below.