Inspection and testing of the VAZ (Lada) Kalina 1118 steering control

Steering components Lada Granta, Kalina

Steering of Lada Kalina/Granta VAZ-2190 cars with electric booster and tilt-adjustable steering column.
The steering wheel is mounted on the splines of the steering shaft and secured with a self-locking nut. On vehicles equipped with a driver's airbag, an airbag module is installed in the steering wheel instead of a pad.

The steering shaft is composite. It consists of an upper and intermediate shaft. The upper shaft rotates in two bearings pressed into the steering column tube.

An ignition switch with an anti-theft device is installed on the top of the column pipe. The intermediate shaft is collapsible and has two cardan joints at the ends.

The Lada Granta/Kalina steering column is assembled with a gear motor and an electric power steering control unit. The efficiency of the electric booster depends on the speed of the vehicle.

The electric booster only works when the engine is on. The steering column brackets are attached to the body on four studs with self-locking nuts. The brackets are pivotally connected to the steering column pipe.

The upper bracket is equipped with a steering column fixation mechanism. By moving the locking lever to the lower position, you can change the angle of the steering column. When the lever is raised, the column is fixed in the selected position.

The steering mechanism of the Lada Kalina/Granta VAZ-2190 is rack-and-pinion type, consisting of a crankcase, a drive gear and a rack in gearing. The mechanism is secured to the partition of the engine compartment with two brackets on rubber supports.

When the steering wheel is turned, rotation is transmitted through the upper and intermediate shafts of the steering column to the drive gear, which, when turning, moves the rack.

Steering rods, which consist of the rods themselves, tips and adjusting bushings, are bolted to the Lada Granta/Kalina steering rack. At the inner ends of the steering rods there are eyes with rubber-metal bushings pressed into them.

Ball pins are installed in the outer rod ends, with which the steering rods are connected to the swing arms of the front suspension struts. When the rack moves, the rods rotate the front suspension struts.

The length of the tie rods can be changed by rotating the adjusting bushings and thereby changing the toe-in of the front wheels. The bushings are secured against spontaneous rotation by tightening bolts wrapped in the flanges of the tie rod ends.

Fig.32. Steering Lada Granta/Kalina

1 — tie rod end; 2 — adjusting sleeve; 3, 6 — brackets for fastening the steering mechanism; 4, 5 tie rods; 7 right protective cap; 8 — right steering gear support; 9 – protective cover of the steering mechanism; 10 — steering mechanism; 11 - seal; 12 — intermediate shaft with lower universal joint; 13 — upper universal joint; 14 — steering column with electric power steering; 15 — steering wheel; 16 — contact ring; 17 — steering wheel fastening nut; 18 — steering wheel pad (driver airbag); 19 steering shaft bearings; 20 left protective cap; 21 left steering gear support

Checking the steering of Lada Granta/Kalina

Visually check the condition of the protective covers of the tie rod ends and steering mechanism. Damaged covers (torn, cracked) must be replaced.

Make sure that the steering column locking lever is raised all the way. Trying to move the steering wheel in a vertical plane, we check that the steering column is securely fastened with the locking mechanism.

If the steering column of the Lada Kalina/Granta VAZ-2190 moves, remove the steering column lining and use a 13 mm wrench to tighten the nut of the steering column fixing lever axis.

Trying to move the steering wheel along the axis of the steering shaft, we make sure that there is no play in the steering wheel on the splines of the shaft and shaft in the steering column.

To check the play in the steering, turn the steering wheel to the position corresponding to straight forward movement. We place a slotted screwdriver on the instrument panel so that its blade is located next to the rim of the steering wheel (for reliability, it can be secured with masking tape).

Turning the steering wheel to the right until the wheels begin to turn (selecting play), and then to the left and using the blade of a screwdriver as a guide, use chalk, pieces of wire, or otherwise mark these positions on the rim. The play should not be more than 5″ (or 18 mm) when measured along the outside of the rim.

Increased play indicates the need to troubleshoot and fix the problem. As a rule, the tie rod ends in the Lada Granta/Kalina steering system are the first to fail.

To check that there is no play in the tie rod ends, an assistant slightly rocks the steering wheel from side to side. We place our hand at the junction of the steering rod with the swing arm of the suspension strut so that the palm touches them at the same time.

When play appears in the tie rod end, a displacement of the steering arm relative to the rod will be felt. Check the tightness of the nuts on the steering column universal joint bolts. We repeat the check on the other side of the car. We replace faulty hinges.

When rocking the steering wheel from side to side, listen to the operation of the steering mechanism. A knocking sound from the right edge of the steering gear indicates wear of the support sleeve. We remove the faulty steering mechanism and repair or replace it.

Turn on the ignition - the electric power steering fault indicator light on the instrument panel should light up. Let's start the engine.

The warning light should go out and the steering wheel should turn easily with one hand. If the lamp lights up while the engine is running, it indicates a malfunction of the electric amplifier and the need for repair.

Replacing the steering column of Lada Kalina/Granta VAZ-2190

Depending on the purpose of the work, the steering column can be removed as an assembly with the steering wheel and steering column switches. The operation is described with partial disassembly of the steering column.

– Turn the steering wheel to the position corresponding to driving in a straight line. Removing the steering wheel

– Remove the decorative lining of the steering column.

– Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the three screws and remove the lower trim of the instrument panel.

– Disconnect the wiring harness blocks from the steering column switches and the slip ring.

– Loosen the coupling bolt and remove the connector assembly with the steering column switches and the slip ring.

– Disconnect the ignition switch wiring harness connectors.

– By releasing the clamps, we disconnect the two wiring harness blocks from the electric power steering of the Lada Granta/Kalina.

– The steering column can be removed complete with the intermediate shaft. However, it is more convenient to remove and install the steering column if you disconnect the intermediate shaft.

– The connection of the intermediate shaft universal joint flanges is possible only in one position, so you do not need to mark their relative position.

– Unscrew the nut of the coupling bolt connecting the universal joints of the intermediate shaft. We remove the bolt.

– Loosen the two nuts of the lower mounting of the Lada Granta/Kalina steering column.

– Using the same wrench, unscrew the two nuts of the upper mounting of the steering column.

– Remove the steering column assembly.

– Unscrew the nut of the coupling bolt of the flange of the lower cardan joint of the intermediate shaft. We remove the bolt.

– Use a slotted screwdriver to open the flange and remove the universal joint from the splines of the steering rack mechanism shaft of the Lada Kalina/Granta VAZ-2190.

Disassembling the steering rack and repairing it when jammed

If steering rack repair is required, it begins with disassembling it. During repairs, a steering rack repair kit is used. Disassembly is carried out in a certain order. First, the adjusting nut is unscrewed, which sometimes requires considerable effort. Then the thrust bushing is removed.

If it is difficult to remove, you can use a mallet to lightly hit the rack body. The side plugs and boot are removed after cutting off the plastic fasteners. For preventative purposes, it is recommended to replace the boot with a new one in any case. The shaft is removed from the rack housing by hitting the body with a mallet.

Steering rack parts: 1 – rack bushing ring; 2 – rack support sleeve; 3 – steering gear housing; 4 – roller bearing; 5 – drive gear; 6 – ball bearing; 7 – retaining ring; 8 – protective washer; 9 – sealing ring; 10 – bearing nut; 11 – lock washer; 12 – boot; 13 – rack; 14 – protective cap; 15 – rack stop; 16 – sealing ring; 17 – retaining ring; 18 – stop nut; 19 – clamp; 20 – protective cover; 21 – inner tie rod end; 22 – connecting plate; 23 – locking plate; 24 – bolt securing the rod to the rack; A - mark on the boot; B - mark on the crankcase

Inside the freed cavity of the housing, a plastic sleeve will become noticeable, which can be removed using a screwdriver. It must be replaced with a new one from the repair kit. All old grease is removed from the cavity of the steering rack housing; the surface is thoroughly cleaned, washed and blown.

New lubricant is applied both inside and outside the housing. Lithol is used for this purpose. Particular attention should be paid to lubricating the gearing areas. All rack parts are inspected and, if necessary, replaced with new ones from the repair kit. If the steering wheel is jammed, it must be removed. This operation for Lada Kalina is carried out as follows.

First, the airbags are disconnected from the battery, their locks and clamps are loosened. The cushions are released and moved to the side. The two horn wires are disconnected. On the steering wheel mounting shaft, in the place marked with an arrow, a mark is made on the location of the steering wheel before it is removed.

The steering wheel nut is loosened (but not completely unscrewed). When the steering wheel swings from side to side, it is tightened until it stops against the nut. Then you should align the car's wheels and ensure that the steering wheel is straight. The pin is removed and inserted into the switch block below the steering wheel.

The steering wheel must be locked at this time. Next, the wires are removed and the steering wheel is pulled out. All elements are checked and lubricated. The steering wheel is assembled in the reverse order.

Every Lada Kalina car owner will sooner or later be faced with the problem of steering rack failure and repair. Of course, experts and auto mechanics recommend changing this element, but not everyone can buy this element, so repair is the way out.

Video about steering rack repair on Lada Kalina:

The video material will tell you how to repair the steering rack, give basic recommendations and assembly features.

Steering of Lada Granta

It is designed to control the car while driving. Structurally, it consists of the following main elements:

The work of the mechanical part is that the driver acts on the steering wheel, the impulse through the steering mechanism and rack transmits force to the front wheels through the levers, and the car turns in the desired direction. A characteristic feature of a passenger car steering wheel is its smaller diameter (compared to a truck). The design of the mechanism also differs. The steering of the Lada Granta is complemented by an electric booster. The steering wheel can be adjusted in height. Unfortunately, there are no settings for departure.

The steering mechanism of the Lada Granta is rack-and-pinion type, the simplest and most inexpensive option.

The drive is mechanical, structurally consisting of levers, rods and hinges. For more efficient and convenient control, the Lada Granta is equipped with an electric amplifier. This is a complex mechanism that provides force through the use of electricity. An electric power steering, or simply EPS, is used to improve dynamic characteristics and controllability. And, according to some data, it allows you to save fuel by increasing the vehicle’s maneuverability.

Steering mechanism malfunctions and their elimination

The steering mechanism of the Lada Granta is quite reliable and rarely causes problems for the owner. However, this does not mean that problems do not occur at all. There are problems. And you need to know how to eliminate them.

Cause of problems

Elimination

Like the braking system, engine operation and other important components and assemblies, the steering system must be periodically inspected for malfunctions. If there are no signs, protective boots and other smaller structural parts must be inspected. The steering rack of the Lada Granta is a key control mechanism. It is thanks to this that the car is controlled by turning the wheel.

Not only the comfort of control, but also the safety of the driver and his passengers depends on the serviceability of the steering mechanism. Unit problems must be diagnosed and corrected in a timely manner.

Basic steering rack faults

The main sign of a breakdown is a knocking sound when turning. At first it is almost invisible and appears when hitting potholes. If you ignore the first symptoms, the noise will not go away and will constantly get worse. Then the knock will be transmitted to the steering wheel. If you ignore this symptom, the rack will simply jam, and this risks getting into an accident due to loss of control. The rack knocks due to wear of the hinges, teeth or rubber-metal bushings (damper).

Lyrical digression

In Lada Kalina, the steering rack never makes a knock when we are talking about a new car. This is also true for the break-in period. Let's say in your case this is not done. Then, do not try to repair anything, but go straight to the dealer. According to reviews, the defect in question is covered under warranty, and most car dealers do this: the steering rack assembly is replaced with a new one.


This is what the replacement unit looks like, the rack assembly

There is a logic here. At the factory, adjustments are made correctly (this is true in 99.9% of cases). If a defect appears, the dealer replaces the assembly without expecting that adjustment will solve the problem. The owner does not need to hope for this either. The choice is yours.

Steering rack adjustment

The unit knocks for various reasons. In fact, this is a real disease of the control mechanism, inherited from the Lada Kalina, since the components are identical on these cars. You can adjust the rack yourself.

To do this you will need a minimum of tools:

  • steering rack calibration key;
  • socket heads for 10 and 13;
  • shaped screwdriver.

To tighten the slats, you can use two methods. The first involves using a special key that can be inserted into the gap of the arch on the left side. The second method is more labor-intensive and is suitable if it is not possible to stick your hand into the gap. To do this, you will need to dismantle the battery and its platform; this is the only way to get to the nut for tightening the gearbox. The first method is simple, so it’s better to consider the second option.

To do this, you need to disconnect the battery terminals and remove it, and then remove the platform under it. Now you can get to the nut located on the inside of the gearbox housing. You can buy a combination wrench for tightening, on the one hand - for tightening the rack, on the other - for tensioning the timing belt.

To tighten the nut, turn it clockwise.

Why do you need a steering rack tightening on Kalina?

How to tighten the steering rack

The working parts of any, even the most reliable and most expensive car, inevitably fall into disrepair and need to be replaced. What to say about Russian economical models like Lada

Kalina?

It’s time to get used to the fact that repairs are a common condition for such cars. Regarding the control mechanism, it should be noted that although it is similar, just like on other models, and tightening the control rack on Kalina is also often done, just like on its brothers in the assembly line.

Do-it-yourself Mazda 6 steering rack repair.

To find out the reason for the need to tighten the control rack on Kalina, you should remember the design of the control mechanism:

  • The control wheel transmits rotational motion to the drive gear through the column and flexible coupling;
  • the gear, having a movable connection with the rack, transmits rotational motion to it and forces it to move;
  • The ends of the control rods are attached to the rack, which turn the wheels.

An elementary-simple device, just like in many cars. In this entire structure there is a very small part that can only be seen from the inspection hole - this is a pressing spring that regulates the force with which the rack is pressed against the gear.

The video is essentially how I repair steering racks

and cardan shafts
Kalina
, Granta, Priora. Significantly suffered from the steering.

The spring is made of a cone type, but during operation it rapidly loses its elasticity and the pressure force decreases. In this regard, you need to clamp the spring harder to return the required force.

Tightening the steering rack on Kalina is done using a special key, but due to the design features of this particular model, the operation can only be performed by removing the rack from the car.

Do-it-yourself repair of the VAZ 2112 steering rack.

Therefore, services are reluctant to take on this function. Work for 5 minutes, and with dismantling. fuss.

their steering wheel repaired.

Kalina slats without the help of others, this is not so difficult, especially if you just need to tighten the spring.

Steering wheel tuning on Lada Granta

There are few options for upgrading the steering wheel on the Lada Granta. The most popular of them is installing a sports version. Such a steering wheel will not only make the interior more attractive, but will also increase the comfort of control, especially if it is selected correctly. You can install a multi-steering wheel, but only if the configuration is maximum, in other cases there will be nothing to control with its help.

The sports version must be injury-proof, that is, in the event of an accident it must be deformed without causing damage to the driver. Among the shortcomings, it can be noted that although there is an airbag in the standard steering wheel, the sports one does not have it. You can also modify the steering wheel by installing braid. More advanced ones install a heating thread under it.

To install the sports steering wheel, you will need to carry out the following operations.

  1. Align the front wheels straight (you can drive a little forward and back so that the trajectory is straight).
  2. Disconnect the battery terminals by de-energizing the vehicle's on-board network.
  3. The airbag control module must be disabled (if the Granta equipment is equipped with it). If you do not turn it off when removing the factory steering wheel, it may shoot out.
  4. Remove the steering wheel and install a horn on the adapter. The wiring must be stored in the adapter; to do this, carefully inspect all contacts.
  5. Connect the adapter to the shaft, but do not secure it with a nut.
  6. A sports steering wheel is installed on the adapter and secured with special screws.

You cannot throw away or sell the factory product; the sports version will raise questions when passing inspection.

How to disassemble and repair a rack when jammed

The repair procedure, like replacing the steering rack, begins with disassembling the unit. To perform a set of actions, we purchase a repair kit.

  1. To disassemble the rack, unscrew the adjusting nut and then remove the thrust bushing. If at the moment we are experiencing difficulties, then we use a mallet, with which we apply gentle blows to the rack body.
  2. We dismantle the side plugs along with the boot. First cut off the plastic fasteners.
  3. We must replace the boot with a new product.
  4. We also use a mallet to remove the shaft from the rack body.
  5. Inside the freed crankcase we find a plastic sleeve, which we remove using a screwdriver. We also replace this component with a new analogue (present in the repair kit).
  6. We clean the internal cavity of the rack housing from old grease. Wash and dry.
  7. Apply new grease. We lubricate the gear pair with special care.
  8. We inspect all other components of the rack and pinion mechanism and if wear is suspected, we replace them. Removing the steering wheel in a Lada Kalina works like this.

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Turn off the airbags. Loosen the clamps and move them to the side.

3. Disconnect the two-wire horn connector.

4. We move on to the steering shaft and in the area where the arrow is present, we outline the location (until removal).

5. Loosen the steering wheel nut, but do not completely unscrew it.

6. We take the steering wheel and, using rocking movements to the sides, move it close to the indicated nut.

7. Now we align the wheels and place the steering wheel in a strictly straight position.

8. We take out the pin, and then insert it into the switch block located directly under the steering wheel. At this moment, the steering wheel rim should be clearly fixed.

9. After removing the wires, we proceed to removing the steering wheel itself.

10. We check the integrity of all elements.

11. Assembly is carried out using the reverse algorithm.

Power steering and power steering: do-it-yourself installation

The electric booster first appeared on Kalina, then on Grant and on the new Priora. You can drive a car without an ESD. But if a car owner previously owned a car equipped with a hydraulic or electric booster, then, at a minimum, he will experience great inconvenience. On the Lada Granta in the minimum configuration, the manufacturer does not install electric power steering, so many owners of such cars decide to install the power steering themselves. This procedure is not the easiest, and the unit is not cheap. But its presence means a comfortable ride, maneuverability and safety.

Installation does not require any special knowledge or skills; minimal experience and a set of tools are sufficient. If, nevertheless, the question arose about installing electric power steering on the Lada Granta, then when purchasing an electric power steering unit, you should pay attention to its number.

The set of numbers contains a definition of the place of production, these are the last two digits:

  • 00 – made in Makhachkala (not the highest quality, has many negative reviews);
  • 04 – Korean amplifier, you can buy it in a store, a rare copy at auto wrecking yards;
  • 02 – made in Kaluga, a good medium option.

To install the amplifier you will need a set of wrenches, screwdrivers and an angle grinder (grinder). Before proceeding with installation, the steering wheel, all steering column switches, the ignition switch, and the steering column with cardan must be removed. The further algorithm of actions is as follows.

  1. Knock out the bolts from the removed bracket in the form of a plate and cut off about 3 cm from the top with a grinder.
  2. Drill holes in the plate to mount the electric amplifier.
  3. Fix the cardan to the EUR.
  4. Place washers under the bracket (where the electric booster is mounted), and you can use them to adjust the steering wheel.
  5. Attach the electric booster, and then install the cardan into the rack.

Electric power steering Lada Kalina | Auto repair

Removal and installation of electric power steering (EPS) Lada Kalina

On Kalina, the electromechanical power steering (EPS) is removed as an assembly with the steering column, for replacement, repair, or during the process of dismantling the instrument panel (dashboard).

To replace the EUR, you will need the following tool:

  • two screwdrivers, Phillips and flathead
  • socket wrench
  • key
  • spanner wrench
  • knob
  • head
  1. First of all, remove the negative terminal of the battery
  2. Using a curved screwdriver, unscrew the screws securing the lower and upper steering shaft housings
  3. lower the steering shaft adjustment lever and remove the covers

4. remove the steering column switches, having previously disconnected the harness pads

5. remove the horn switch cover by pulling it towards you

6. disconnect the wires from the horn switch

7. Using a wrench and a socket, unscrew the steering wheel fastening nut (we do not unscrew the nut completely)

8. Rocking the steering wheel from side to side, pull it towards you and remove it from the splines

9. Unscrew the nut completely and remove the steering wheel (before removing the steering wheel, use a marker to mark its position relative to the splined part of the shaft)

10. Unscrew the three screws securing the transverse reinforcement of the instrument panel and remove it

11. Using a socket wrench, unscrew the 4 nuts securing the bracket and lower the steering column

12. disconnect the wiring harness blocks from the ignition switch and the power steering controller

13. lower the steering column to the floor

14. Mark with a marker the position of the propeller shaft relative to the steering column shaft

15. Use a wrench to unscrew the bolt securing the intermediate cardan joint to the lower cardan joint, remove the bolt, and remove the steering column assembly with the electric power steering.

Reassemble in reverse order

Rack and pinion steering

If we talk in general about the steering mechanism of the Lada Grant, then the following are its main characteristics and features.

  1. The steering column provides the ability to adjust the tilt of the steering wheel. And the steering wheel itself can be locked by installing an anti-rotation device connected to the ignition switch.
  2. The steering mechanism is of a rack and pinion type, where it is possible to change the gear ratio in different operating modes.
  3. The mechanism is mainly equipped with electric power steering.
  4. The electric amplifier is equipped with a unit that allows you to independently diagnose the technical condition of the device, and, if necessary, exclude the amplifier from operation.

The schematic diagram of the Lada Granta steering device is quite simple. The rack-and-pinion type mechanism is fixed in the engine compartment on a special shield through rubber supports. Reliability of fastening is ensured by bolts welded to the body. Steering drive is provided through two separate tie rods, which interact with the steering arms of the front wheel struts.

Reliability of engagement of the gear pair on one side is ensured by a special gap set at the factory. On the other hand, the precision of engagement is maintained by a spring stop, which presses the rack itself against the gear teeth.

The above gap under normal conditions is 0.1 mm, but during operation it may be violated due to wear of individual parts. Thus, one of the main reasons why an extraneous knock appeared in the steering mechanism is a violation of the set gear clearance. It should be noted that there are other malfunctions that can lead to an unpleasant knocking sound in the car:

  • loosening of the steering rack itself on the mounting bolts;
  • loosening of the tie rod ball joint;
  • wear or destruction of mechanical transmission teeth.

The process of removing and installing the steering rack

Technologically, repairing the Kalina control rack is not much different from repairing this part on other VAZs. The necessary tools, as needed, can be found in the repair kits of other VAZ models.

Removal technology:

  1. You need to unscrew the bolt securing the spitz mechanism.
  2. Having previously raised the car on a jack. The front wheels need to be removed. You also need to knock out the control tips from the steering knuckles.
  3. Next, using a ratchet, you need to unscrew the nuts securing the control mechanism.
  4. remove the battery and pad from under it.
  5. It is necessary to unscrew the upper nut on the heat-reflecting plate, it is located near the passenger seat, behind the exhaust manifold. bend the plate itself towards itself.

Let us immediately describe the process of installing the rack backwards:

It is better, of course, to work together, in this case one presses the rack, and the second attaches it to the flange of the control shaft. If you are not lucky enough to work alone, then it is recommended to attach nuts to the body and press down the rail with something.

When the shaft splines and the axle with the flange are aligned, you can begin to screw the rack. A ratchet wrench is used in such cases, but do not use excessive force.

Next we screw the rods to the rack; the bolts that secure the rods must be tightened quite a lot. You need to put a locking plate on top to prevent the bolts from unscrewing.

Removing the steering gear

If a knock does occur, the car owner will have to dismantle the mechanism. It is more convenient and faster to carry out this work when the vehicle is on a lift. To carry out the work you will need the necessary tools, which in this case include:

  • socket wrench or socket wrench 13;
  • flat screwdriver;
  • durable knife;
  • special 24mm wrench for the steering rack;
  • hexagon 6 with wrench.

Before starting work, the battery is disconnected, thereby taking the necessary safety measures. At the initial stage, you need to first loosen the bolts securing the front wheels. The wheels themselves should be left in the “straight” position before lifting the car onto the lift. Next, the steering wheel driveshaft is disconnected from the rack and pinion drive shaft.

This work is carried out from the salon. Therefore, the car is not raised high. The swing rods can now be released by unscrewing them from the swing arms. And as soon as this work is completed, you can begin to dismantle the steering mechanism. Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the nuts securing it and remove the mounting clamps.

The steering mechanism is removed along with the disconnected steering rods. The next stage of repair work is disassembling the removed device. Here you should free the steering rack from all protective covers that are put on the mechanism. For this purpose, cut off all the fixing clamps, which will subsequently need to be replaced with new ones.

Removing the Kalina electric power steering column

  • Medium Phillips screwdriver
  • Large flat screwdriver
  • Marker
  • Open-end wrench 10 mm
  • Open-end wrench 13 mm
  • Driver for socket attachment
  • High nozzle on the wrench 13 mm
  • Knob attachment 13 mm
  • Knob attachment 24 mm

1. Set the wheels to the straight-line position of the car.

2. Disconnect the wire terminal from the negative terminal of the battery.

3. Remove the steering wheel as described here. We remove the steering column switches as described here. Disconnect the ignition switch wire connectors from the instrument panel wiring harness connectors. If necessary, remove the ignition switch from the steering column.

4. Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the three screws.

5. Then remove the lower cross member of the instrument panel.

6. Pressing the latches, disconnect the two wiring harness blocks from the power steering control unit. Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the steering column switch connector as described here.

7. Using a high “13” head, unscrew the four nuts securing the bracket (the fourth nut is not visible in the photo).

8. Lower the steering column to the floor.

9. If necessary, remove the connector for the steering column switches, as described here. Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the lower cardan joint to the steering gear shaft. If the bolt turns, hold it with a 13mm wrench.

10. Remove the bolt.

11. Using a powerful slotted screwdriver, release the terminal connection of the hinge.

12. Remove the intermediate propeller shaft from the steering gear shaft.

13. Before disconnecting the intermediate propeller shaft from the steering shaft, use a marker to mark the relative position of the upper joint of the propeller shaft relative to the steering shaft. Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the nut of the hinge coupling bolt. If the bolt turns, hold it with a 13mm wrench. We take out the bolt.

14. Using a screwdriver, open the terminal connection of the hinge.

15. Remove the intermediate driveshaft from the steering shaft.

Intermediate cardan shaft

16. Install the intermediate driveshaft in the reverse order. When connecting the upper joint of the intermediate propeller shaft to the steering shaft, it is necessary to align the previously made marks. Install the steering column in the reverse order. Installation this way is best done with an assistant.

However, it is more convenient to install the column when the lower hinge of the intermediate propeller shaft is installed on the steering gear shaft in advance. To do this, after connecting the intermediate propeller shaft to the steering shaft, use a 13mm wrench to unscrew the nut of the intermediate shaft coupling bolt.

Diagnostics, repair and reassembly

Before determining why there is a knock in the steering, you should completely disassemble the rack and carry out diagnostics for wear, destruction of components and connections. Disassembly is carried out in this order. Secure the steering rack in a vice, having previously installed spacers made of soft metal or other material. Unscrew the nut securing the mechanism crankcase pipe. The crankcase tube is removed. Remove the clamps securing the pipe bushings and remove them.

Unscrew the adjusting nut. Here you need to use a special 24mm wrench, which has external edges for unscrewing. Sequentially remove the rack stop spring, the sealing ring and the rack stop. Remove the crankcase cover. After removing the bearing cage and sealing ring, remove the rack. The second element of the steering mechanism pair - the gear shaft - is dismantled.

Now you can diagnose the condition of the bearings and sealing rings. After thorough cleaning, the wear of the gear sectors and the condition of the surface of the rack and shaft are assessed. After all, this is where the reason lies that causes the knocking that appears. If necessary, select the necessary parts and replace them.

Before reassembly, all critical connections are lubricated with a special compound. Very often, it is the insufficient amount of lubricant that leads to rapid wear of loaded parts, which violates the previously established clearance. Therefore, even a recently installed rack knocks again.

Assembling the steering mechanism is carried out in the reverse order. For correct and easy installation of dismantled bearings, you should select the required diameter of pipe cutting, which will help to correctly install the bearings in place. The assembled steering mechanism must be adjusted, since the size of the gap can also determine whether a knock will appear after reinstallation.

Dismantling and disassembling the rack on Lada Kalina

When all the materials for repairing the steering rack have been collected and purchased, you can proceed directly to the repair operations.

Before you begin, you need to completely clean the steering rack. This can be done manually, but it is best to use a steam mechanism under pressure, which will efficiently remove dirt and dust from all elements without damaging the parts.

Now, let's proceed to sequential operations to repair the steering rack:

    We place the brake shoes under the rear wheels and remove the handbrake.

We put the shoes under the wheels

Removing the coupling fixing bolt

We remove the cotter pins using pliers

Removing tie rod ends using a hammer and crowbar

Disconnecting the EUR connector from the on-board network

Removing the steering rack mounts

We dismantle the steering rack through the wheel arch

We remove the steering rods

Cut off the boot clamps using wire cutters

Removing the rack crankcase cover

We diagnose the condition of all products. Plastic and rubber parts will have to be replaced, and it is also recommended to install a new boot and bearings.

Assembly in the correct sequence

Before assembly, it is necessary to clean all parts and lubricate the rack shaft with lithol or other similar lubricant.

Let's start the assembly:

    We change the rack bearings.

Installing new bearings

We align the marks on the crankcase and rack so that the steering wheel is level

We put a new boot on the rail

Recommendations

Many automakers do not recommend performing repair operations on the steering rack, but at the same time they produce repair kits. Thus, in the AvtoVAZ repair manual, it is clearly stated that if the VAZ 1117-1119 steering rack fails, it must be replaced with a new one.

Also, car enthusiasts and car steering repair technicians recommend that after repairing the steering rack, after 1000-1500 km, tighten the threaded connections that could have become loose due to vibration.

Car experts recommend that maintenance of this unit should be carried out every 10,000 km. This includes a visual inspection for smudges, checking the condition of the boots, as well as tightening the connections.

Rack adjustment

Before installing the rack and rods back, it is necessary to set the gaps of the gear connection. Please note that it is better to immediately replace the thrust nut with a new one. Set the rack to the middle position, as if the wheels were straight. For adjustment, a special clock-type indicator mechanism is used. We start rotating the gear shaft and measure the indicator readings.

If the value is 0.05 mm, then the adjusting nut should be tightened to the same amount. After the steering rack adjustment is completed, check the ease and uniformity of movement along the entire length of the rack stroke. Provided that everything is done accurately, you should fix the position of the adjusting nut by performing special core punching with a punch. When all the work has been completed, you can begin to reinstall the steering mechanism on the Lada Granta. After the mechanism has been installed back on the car, you should, even before starting to drive with the car stationary, turn the steering wheel, checking the uniformity of rotation. A check that will reveal that there is no knocking can only be done while driving on a rough road.

Steering malfunctions usually occur due to insufficiently frequent preventive inspections. If the owner has missed the appearance of minor leaks in the steering mechanism, loss of integrity of the protective covers, then the likelihood that a knock will soon appear in it is quite high. Therefore, it is important to carry out annual diagnostics.

Large steering wheel play
The fastening nuts on the ball rods have become loose.The cotter pin may be missing. Tighten the fastening and install a cotter pin if necessary.
The clearance in the ball joint rods is too large.Replacement of steering tips for Lada Granta.
The silent blocks of the hinges are worn out.Replace the rods.
There is too much clearance between the rack and nut.Worn elements must be replaced, and after replacement the mechanism must be adjusted.
There is a knocking sound when turning the steering wheel
The tie rod nuts are loose.Tighten the fastening nuts.
There is a large gap between the rack and the nut.Replace worn elements; after replacement, the mechanism should be adjusted.
The steering mount is loose.Tighten the fastening nuts holding the mechanism.
Steering wheel turns too hard
The support bearing of the shock absorber strut is faulty.Replace the support bearing.
The support sleeve is worn, the rack stop is worn.Worn elements need to be replaced.
Tire pressure is too low.Inflate tires to optimal pressure.
Ball joint parts are worn or damaged.Replace elements.
The shock absorber struts or their elements have expired.Repairing the shock absorber strut or replacing it.
The shaft bearings are worn out.The shaft bearings need to be replaced.
The electric power steering is faulty.Replacement of the EUR together with the shaft.

LADA KALINA: Removing the steering column with electric power steering

We set the wheels to the position of straight-line movement of the car. Disconnect the wire terminal from the “negative” terminal of the battery. Remove the steering wheel. Remove the steering column switches. Disconnect the ignition switch wire blocks from the instrument panel wiring harness blocks. If necessary, remove the ignition switch from the steering column

Using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the three screws.

. and remove the lower cross member of the instrument panel.

By pressing the clamps, disconnect the two wiring harness blocks from the power steering control unit. Disconnect the wiring harness block from the steering column switch connector.

Using a high “13” head, unscrew the four nuts securing the bracket (the fourth nut is not visible in the photo).

. and lower the column to the floor. If necessary, remove the connector for the steering column switches.

Using a 13mm socket, unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the lower cardan joint to the steering gear shaft. If the bolt turns, hold it with a 13mm wrench.

Using a powerful slotted screwdriver, release the terminal connection of the hinge.

. and remove the intermediate propeller shaft from the steering gear shaft. Before disconnecting the intermediate propeller shaft from the steering shaft, use a marker to mark the relative position of the upper joint of the propeller shaft relative to the steering shaft.

Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the nut of the hinge coupling bolt. If the bolt turns, hold it with a 13mm wrench. We take out the bolt

Use a screwdriver to loosen the terminal connection of the hinge.

. and remove the intermediate driveshaft from the steering shaft.

Intermediate driveshaft Install the intermediate driveshaft in the reverse order. When connecting the upper hinge of the intermediate propeller shaft to the steering shaft, it is necessary to align the previously made marks. Install the steering column in the reverse order. Installation in this way is best done with an assistant. However, it is more convenient to install the column when the lower hinge of the intermediate propeller shaft is installed on the steering gear shaft in advance. To do this, after connecting the intermediate propeller shaft to the steering shaft..

. Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the nut of the intermediate shaft coupling bolt. . remove the bolt.

. and disconnect the lower universal joint from the upper one. We install the lower hinge on the steering gear shaft (the bolt securing the hinge to the gear shaft should be located vertically on the right side). We turn the steering shaft so that the hole in the upper hinge for the intermediate shaft pinch bolt is located horizontally at the bottom of the shaft. We connect the upper and lower hinges of the intermediate shaft, insert the coupling bolt and tighten the nut. We carry out further installation in the reverse order.

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