How to change the cylinder head gasket of LADA Kalina: do-it-yourself replacement

09.29.2021 10 337 Cylinder block

Author: Victor

Domestic cars have a fairly simple design, which allows them to be repaired on their own. Replacing the Kalina cylinder head gasket can be done independently, but only if you have a garage, a good set of tools and the owner has experience.

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Frequency and signs of replacement

There is no specific time frame for replacing the cylinder head gasket on the Lada Kalina. Over time, it can become unusable under the influence of various factors. The gasket can break through in different places and, depending on the location of the crack, the signs of damage will be different. The symptoms will be the same for both 8-valve and 16-valve engines.

Symptoms of gasket damage:

1. When the gasket breaks along the side of the cylinder circumference, gases begin to escape outward. At the same time, the noise level of the VAZ Kalina engine increases sharply, which will be immediately noticeable to the driver.
2. A hole between the cylinders disrupts the operating mode and the engine begins to operate unevenly and triple.
3. Destruction of the gasket with a rupture entering the coolant supply channels. At the same time, gases begin to enter the cooling system. One of the external signs of such a problem will be a decrease in the fluid level and the appearance of white steam in the exhaust gases. Gas bubbles may appear in the expansion tank. Another sign is the appearance of an emulsion in the oil, accompanied by an increase in the level of lubricant in the crankcase. Oil can also go into the cooling system, which is easy to detect by its presence on the surface of the liquid in the expansion tank.
4. Another indirect symptom of a gasket burnout is the appearance of stains or leaks of oil or coolant on the parting line of parts and on the side surface of the engine crankcase.

Removing and disassembling the cylinder head

We remove the cylinder head to replace its gasket, valves, their guide bushings, repair the head, and also when completely disassembling the engine. The cylinder head can be removed assembled with the receiver, intake pipe, fuel rail and catalytic collector or by first dismantling these components. We show the removal of the cylinder head assembly with the above components. We carry out the work on an overpass or inspection ditch. Remove the engine screen. Relieve the fuel pressure in the power system (see “Replacing the fuel filter”). Disconnect the wire terminal from the negative terminal of the battery. Disconnect the fuel supply hose from the fuel rail tube (see). Drain the coolant from the engine (see “Checking the level and replacing the coolant”). Remove the air filter (see “Removing the air filter”). Remove the vacuum brake booster hose from the receiver pipe (see “Removing the receiver”). We disconnect the tips of the high-voltage wires from the spark plugs (see “Checking the condition and replacing the spark plugs”).

When is it time to change?

Another technical solution was self-adjusting braking: to automatically adjust the sag, this was enough to reverse and brake. But there weren't many brakes because it used four drums when other smaller national cars already used front discs.

Due to its German and American mechanical body, the engine and transmission bolts and nuts were in inches and the rest were in millimeters. An additional complication for dealers and seminars. Over the years this has been corrected for the metric system.

Using the “13” head, unscrew the nut securing the tip of the “negative” wire to the cooling system thermostat housing. . and remove the wire tip from the stud. Loosen the clamps.

Remove the cooling system hoses from the cover and thermostat housing. We remove from the throttle assembly fittings the hose that drains coolant from the assembly heating unit and the hose of the solenoid valve for purge the adsorber. Disconnect the air supply hose from the throttle body pipe (see “Removing the throttle body”). We disconnect the engine management system wiring harness connectors from the fuel injector wiring harness connector (see “Checking the injectors, removing the fuel rail and injectors”) and from the idle air regulator (see “Checking and removing the idle air regulator”), as well as from the sensors: — throttle position (see “Removing the throttle position sensor”); — phases (see “Removing the phase sensor” 6); — coolant temperature (see “Removing the coolant temperature sensor”); — oxygen concentration (see “Removing the control oxygen concentration sensor”). We disconnect the wire blocks from the coolant temperature indicator sensors (see [,"de":["-DOpJ614_3g"], "es":["1NBzBHdysVU","yK2NrZnnWGo"],"pt":["QbebP_TIU00","a58u36 -UxBw","5T41Me7Gjfw","IcA8UB—O_g","57IUEzDnf8Y","8-ChgOJATAo","v4kXoDE6Wic"],"fr":[["uJ1UcBhGFGA"]bg":[["yUn-qpydIFs"] pl":[["6GNAJWKlBX0","Byycogs2tng"]ro":["w["wc_6d5tBa8w","wqpgRyDLlCU"]l":["K["KZv06RjWQ00","5dRP20Gulgk","A09d9X_NgXc"]

Gasket selection

When purchasing a gasket, you need to know the type of engine installed on Kalina. There are two versions of 8-valve engines - VAZ 11183 and VAZ 11186. These engines have different piston groups and differ in many external elements. On the older version 11183, a thickness of 1.2 mm is used (article 21080-1003020-12, manufacturer ZAO Lada-Image), and the new 11186 requires a gasket with a thickness of only 0.43 mm. This nuance must be taken into account when choosing new parts. For a 1.4-liter 16 valve engine, a gasket 11194-1003020-00 manufactured by Federal-Mogul Corporation is required, or you can get a cheaper option from Trialli (GZ1015001).

How to replace it yourself?

Replacing a burnt gasket requires a large amount of work. Self-repair and replacement of the Kalina cylinder head gasket can only be carried out by an experienced car owner who has the skills to disassemble and reassemble engines. For novice drivers and people who are not confident in their capabilities, contacting a specialized service would be an advisable step.

Tools and materials

Before starting work, you need to find a room for the replacement and check the availability of the necessary tools and equipment.

The minimum set of tools and spare parts is as follows:

• new cylinder head gasket;
• 10 bolts for cylinder head with size M12 (article 026707, for motor 11183) and M10 (article 256632, for engine 11186);
• gasket for the junction of the catalytic converter and resonator housings;
• torque wrench up to 100 Nm;
• a set of hex keys and sockets (at least sizes 10, 13, 17 and 19);
• pliers;
• screwdrivers with different types of blades;
• rags for wiping;
• container for draining coolant.

It is not recommended to use old cylinder head bolts.

Step by step instructions (8 valves)

After preparing the tools, you can begin replacing. The gasket replacement procedure is quite lengthy and takes about 8-9 hours even for experienced craftsmen.

Below is an approximate sequence of actions when replacing the cylinder head gasket of a Kalina with a 1.6-liter 8-valve engine:

1. Place the car over the inspection hole.
2. Remove the fuse box cover located on the center console and remove the fuel pump fuse.
3. Start the engine and drain fuel from the ramp. Turn off the engine.
4. Disconnect the battery and remove it from the vehicle.
5. Replace the fuse and cover.
6. Unfasten the decorative plastic casing from the motor. To do this, you need to pull it up and pull off the rubber caps from the studs. Inspect these caps; damaged parts should be replaced.
7. Remove the three bolts securing the upper part of the camshaft drive belt housing.
8. Separate the cover and manually turn the engine crankshaft to TDC (top dead center) in the first cylinder. The guideline will be the coincidence of the notch on the camshaft gear with the notch on the rear of the housing.
9. Remove the plug located on the clutch housing and check the location of the mark on the flywheel and housing. The marks must match.
10. Secure the engine flywheel with a screwdriver through the hole in the crankcase and unscrew the camshaft gear.
11. Remove the timing belt drive.
12. Remove the ignition coil attached to the bracket with four screws.
13. Remove the engine sump protective shield. Drain the coolant from the cylinder block. To do this, you need to open the expansion tank cap and unscrew the screw plug on the side of the crankcase. Pour the liquid into a prepared container.
14. Disconnect the lines from the thermostat and throttle valve assembly.
15. Separate the air duct from the throttle body and remove the air filter housing.
16. Step by step disconnect the electrical wiring connectors for the idle speed (IAC), throttle position (TPS), fluid temperature and oil pressure sensors.
17. Disconnect the ground wire from the engine.
18. Disconnect the injector connectors.
19. Remove the fitting and separate the fuel supply pipe from the ramp.
20. Remove the two bolts securing the ramp to the intake manifold housing.
21. Carefully move the ramp along the axis of the injectors and remove them from their seats on the manifold.
22. Remove the brake booster hose attached to the throttle body fitting.
23. Unfasten the intake pipe spacer mounted on the nuts.
24. Remove the lambda probe connectors on the catalytic converter.
25. Unscrew the receiving pipe going to the muffler from the flange of the gas neutralizer.
26. Remove the neutralizer support bracket.
27. Loosen the head bolts according to the diagram and unscrew them completely. When removing bolts, they must be removed along with washers.
28. Remove the head from the engine.
29. Remove the old gasket.
30. It is advisable to send the removed head for surface milling, since it may have microcracks that arose when the engine was running with a broken gasket.
31. After checking, you can put the head back, having first checked the presence and completeness of installation of the guide bushings.
32. Thoroughly wipe the mating surfaces of the block and head from oil and coolant. Clean the bolt wells from liquids.
33. Carefully wash the cylinders with gasoline to remove deposits.
34. Place a new gasket on the block, centering it along the guide bushings. The channel for the passage of oil through the gasket is located between the third and fourth cylinders - it is important not to miss this moment.
35. When reinstalling the head, it is necessary to set the position of the shafts corresponding to TDC in the first cylinder (according to the marks).
36. Tighten the bolts according to the scheme in several passes - initial tightening with a force of 20 Nm, tightening with a torque of 70–85 Nm, the first turn by 90 degrees and the second turn by another 90 degrees. When installing the head, use only new bolts and lubricate them with a thin layer of engine oil, which will facilitate tightening.
37. Reinstall all removed parts.
38. During assembly, it is recommended to check and adjust the valve clearances, as well as check the tension of the drive belt and the correct timing of the gas distribution mechanism.
39. Turn the assembled engine over by hand several times and re-check the timing timing.
40. Start the engine, make sure there are no leaks or extraneous sounds. Warm it up, visually monitoring its condition.
41. Remove the coolant pipes from the throttle body assembly. Release the air from them, gradually increasing engine speed. Put the tubes back on and add fluid to the tank to the normal level.

Sequence of loosening bolts

Bolt tightening order

Video from the channel Sdelaj Sam! Pljus interesting! Demonstrates basic methods for identifying faults and replacing worn parts.

Step by step instructions (16 valves)

Removing the head for replacement on such motors has its own characteristics that must be taken into account during disassembly and reassembly. The engine design is much more complex than the 8-valve version and requires careful assembly and subsequent adjustment of the valve timing.

How to remove the head from a 1.4-liter 16-valve engine with an injector, model VAZ 11194:

1. By analogy with an 8-valve engine, it is necessary to drain the fuel from the line, remove the battery, decorative casing, and air filter. And also drain the coolant and disconnect all sensor connectors.
2. Remove the breather pipe and vacuum booster hose.
3. Disconnect the hoses from the throttle body and the throttle position sensor.
4. Remove the ignition coils.
5. Disconnect the wiring harnesses and fluid supply pipes from the windshield washer reservoir. Remove the tank itself.
6. Loosen the tension on the accessory drive belt and remove it.
7. Remove the camshaft drive belt guard and fuel rail. The injectors are removed using a scheme similar to the 8-valve engine.
8. Move the generator towards the radiator and remove the oil level dipstick guide.
9. Remove the receiver mount to the block head.
10. Unscrew the lower timing belt cover.
11. Unscrew the fastenings of the timing belt tension rollers and the crankshaft pulley and remove them together with the belt.
12. Remove the camshaft gears.
13. Unscrew the 15 bolts and remove the camshaft cover.
14. Unscrew the 20 bolts that secure the camshaft supports.
15. Remove the shafts.
16. Remove the hydraulic compensators.
17. Unscrew the attachment points of the neutralizer to the head.
18. Disconnect all hoses from the thermostat.
19. Unscrew the 10 head mounting bolts (according to the diagram).
20. Remove the head and replace the gasket.
21. Reassemble, taking into account the recommendations for the 8-valve engine.

Head removal procedure

Bolt tightening order

Replacing cylinder head gaskets Kalina 8 Cl

If an engine oil leak is detected on the RPLada Kalina engine (11194 1.4 16 cl.) When cooling the water at the junction of the cylinder heads, remove and replace the gasket. Leakage also occurs due to curvature of the head due to overheating. You will need: torque wrenches 13, 17, 19, 19, sockets P 10, 13, 17, hex key P 10, screwdriver.

1. Remove the engine casing (» «) 2. Install the piston of the 1st cylinder into the piston TDC compression stroke (see)

Reduce the power supply pressure if the job is done immediately 3. Reduce the P system pressure (see Reducing the P system fuel pressure). 4 Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

5. Drain the coolant (see Replacing antifreeze). 6. Remove the air filter (see Removing and installing the air filter).

7. Disconnect the heating hoses from the throttle body; 8. Remove the throttle valve assembly (see Removing and Installing the Throttle Valve).

9. Disconnect the wiring harness assemblies from the ignition coils. Remove the ignition coils and remove the spark plugs (see Spark Plug Replacement and Maintenance). 10.

Disconnect the harness gaskets from the oil pressure drop sensor to the freeze temperature sensor so that the engine management and phase sensor can be recorded. 11. Unscrew the clamps and disconnect the 5 radiator hoses. pipe thermostat item 12.

Disconnect the tube assembly from the antifreeze sensor. 13. Unscrew the nut on the nut securing the tip of the solid wire with a 13mm wrench and remove the wire. 14. Remove the intake manifold (see Removing and installing the intake manifold).

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🛠 YourselfReplace the cylinder head gasket yourself &# 128664; The secrets of Lada Kalina are easy, simple and understandable &# 128072;&# 128736; ️👍

fifteen.

Remove the screw on the pressure plate of the fuel line bracket to the cylinder head and remove the plate. 16. Unscrew the fastening bolt with a 10 wrench and disconnect the ground wire from the device head. 17. Remove the head cover (see

Replace the cylinder head cover gasket. 18. Remove the 5mm wrench and remove the front timing belt cover.

19. Unscrew the mounting bolts or the upper front cover of the toothed belt drive hex key by 5 and remove the cover. 20. Release the key on the 15 bolts securing the tension roller and remove the timing belt.

21. To prevent the camshaft pulleys from rotating, unscrew the bolts, attach the pulley, and remove the pulleys. 22. And remove the keys from the grooves of the shafts 23.

Turn the wrench on the 15 mounting bolts to remove the tension pulley. 24. Remove the main roller by turning the wrench on the 15 mounting bolts. 25. Remove the 10 5 bolts securing the rear timing belt cover and remove the cover. Figs

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6. 3. Procedure for tightening the cylinder head bolts 26. Remove the 10 bolts securing the cylinder head to the cylinder block using a hex wrench in the reverse order (Fig. 6.

3) and remove the block head. 27. Remove the head gasket. Cylinder head bolts stretch with repeated use, so replace them with new ones.

28. Clean the connecting surfaces of the cylinder head and cylinder block (you must be dry and spotless). 29. Remove oil from the threaded holes in the block for the head bolts. 30. Make sure that there are 2 mounting sleeves in the last holes of the cylinder block under the main bolts.

Mounting the cylinder head cylinder head VAZ injector 8 valves viburnum

If the bushing heads remain in the head or block exits during removal, press them into the block according to the complete program. 31. Install the latest head gasket to the unit. Used gaskets are not permitted.

Before installing the gasket, remove oil from the connected surfaces of the device and its head. The gasket can be clean and dry. Do not allow oil to come into contact with the gasket surface. 6.

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3 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Procedure 32. Install the head to the block, making sure the crankshaft and camshaft are at TDC (both cylinder 1 cylinders must be closed). Tighten the bolts securing the cylinder head in sequence (shown in Fig. 6.3 PS in four stages: 3.5. torque 69.4

85.7 Nm (7.1 8.7 / Nm) 4. Tighten the bolts completely.

33. Attach the removed parts to the device head and connect the hoses and wires P in the reverse order. Installation of the intake camshaft, which ensures the operation of the PP sensor on the engine. Install the intake camshaft pulleys in the same way. Adjust the tension of the timing belt (see Replacing gearbox P and tension roller) and alternator belt (see Replacing gearbox P and tension roller).

Source

Price issue

Changing the head gasket yourself will be quite inexpensive, since its cost ranges from 220 (for 8-valve engines) to 550 rubles (for 16-valve engines). In addition to it, you will need a gasket between the exhaust pipe and the catalyst, which costs no more than 100 rubles, and 10 new head bolts, costing 40–50 rubles each. Often the manifold gasket is damaged, which in this case must be replaced. A new part costs about 750 rubles. The total cost of spare parts will not exceed 1,500 rubles. It must be remembered that when disassembling and troubleshooting the engine, other parts may appear that need to be replaced.

Performing such work at a service station depends on the territorial location and ranges from 4 thousand rubles in small cities (Tula, Bryansk) and up to 10 thousand rubles in large cities (Moscow, St. Petersburg).

Replacing the Kalina Cylinder Head Gasket Do-It-Yourself

Content

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When is the time to change?

Replacement of the cylinder head gasket may be required if:

• a lubricant leak was detected;
• burner pads;

Cylinder head gasket burnt out

• a coolant leak is detected in the place where the cylinder head is connected to the unit;
• bending of the cylinder head due to overheating and the like.

Replacement process

The process of replacing the Kalina 8 cl unit is simple and can be done under normal conditions, in an ordinary garage with good lighting. DIY Viburnum Wheel Alignment: Replace the spacer. Replacing an Opel Astra headlight: disassembling and installing devices If you decide to replace an Opel Astra headlight with your own hands, then you need it. If you have a high mileage vehicle, you may need to purchase new pinch bolts, but more accurately after removing the head.

Tools you need

• wrench;

One type of wrench

Stages

1. Place the car on a level surface.
2. Allow the engine to cool.

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Exit

Be sure to strictly adhere to this diagram when unscrewing the bolts

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New part installed

The diagram for tightening the bolts.

Source

Photo gallery

The photo below shows some stages of replacing the gasket on an 8-valve VAZ engine.

Engine with valve cover removed

Unscrewing the exhaust pipe from the converter

Interior of engine cylinders with damaged gasket

The gasket itself

Place of gasket punching

Cylinders washed with gasoline

Head removed from engine

Carbon deposits on valves and combustion chambers

The photo below shows some of the stages of disassembling a 1.4 liter engine.

Removing the washer reservoir

Removed ramp with injectors

Probe guide

Timing drive removed

Camshaft gears removed

Removing the camshaft supports

Cylinder interior

16 valve head

Video

The video shows the identification of the malfunction and the process of changing a broken gasket on Kalina (by Sdelaj Sam! Pljus interesnoe!)

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