How to check the thermostat on a VAZ-2110: opening temperature

The cooling system in a car is necessary to maintain the engine temperature within acceptable limits. The VAZ 2110 thermostat is of key importance for cooling the power unit. Starting from the eighth family of VAZ cars, a sealed system was used in which a certain pressure was maintained. Using the cap on the expansion tank, which contains two valves, the pressure is regulated. One inlet valve takes air from the atmosphere if the pressure drops to 0.13 Atm. If it rises to 1.2-1.4 Atm, then the exhaust valve is activated. As a result of their work, the pressure is normalized. On average, it is slightly more than atmospheric.

Methods for checking the health of the thermostat

If the driver detects one of the above malfunctions, he will have to check the serviceability of the thermostat. At the same time, there are two ways to check this device: with removal from the car and without removal. Let's talk about each method in more detail.

Checking the device without removing it from the car

This is the simplest option that every car enthusiast can handle. The main thing is that the engine is completely cold before starting the test.

The engine starts and idles for 20 minutes

During this time, the antifreeze will heat up properly, but it will not yet enter the radiator. After 20 minutes, carefully touch the upper thermostat tube with your hand. If it is cold, it means that the antifreeze circulates in a small circle (that is, it enters only the engine cooling jacket and the small stove radiator)

That is, the thermostat valve is still closed, and in the first 20 minutes of operation of a cold engine this is normal.

If the upper tube is so hot that it is impossible to touch it, then the valve is most likely jammed. Or it has lost its tightness and stopped responding adequately to temperature changes.

If the upper thermostat tube heats up, but it does so very slowly, this indicates that the central valve is not fully opening. Most likely, it is stuck in the half-open position, which in the future will lead to difficult starting and a very long warm-up of the engine.

Checking the device by removing it from the car

Sometimes it is not possible to check the serviceability of the thermostat using the above method. Then there is only one way out: remove the device and check it separately.

First you need to wait until the car engine has completely cooled down. After this, all the antifreeze is drained from the car (it is best to drain it into a small basin, having first completely unscrewed the cap from the expansion tank).
The thermostat is supported by three pipes, which are attached to it using steel clamps. These clamps are loosened with a regular flat-head screwdriver and the pipes are removed manually. After this, the thermostat is removed from the engine compartment of the “Seven”.
The thermostat removed from the car is placed in a pan of water. A thermometer is also placed there. The pan is placed on the gas stove. The water gradually warms up.
All this time you need to monitor the thermometer readings. When the water temperature reaches 90°C, the thermostat valve should open with a characteristic click. If this does not happen, the device is faulty and needs to be replaced (thermostats cannot be repaired).

Diagnosing the thermostat at home

Thermostats are devices for maintaining a constant temperature. Car thermostats are essentially valves that operate at a certain coolant temperature. The temperature at which it operates is usually marked on itself. Its task is to switch the movement of coolant from the so-called small circle, through which the coolant passes, to a large circle, after the antifreeze reaches a certain temperature (usually 90 degrees Celsius).

There are situations when the engine warms up for a very long time, for example, in winter, without providing proper heating of the interior and without reaching the operating temperature. As a result, this leads to increased fuel consumption and decreased engine power. Or, on the contrary, it heats up very quickly, which threatens the coolant boiling, especially in the warm season.

Even if on an intuitive level you don’t like something about the temperature conditions of the engine, it’s worth checking the functionality of the thermostat. Particularly dangerous is engine overheating, which can lead to boiling of the coolant, which can ultimately cause engine failure. All this indicates the need to check the functionality of the thermostat. And in order to figure out how to check the thermostat, let's consider its operating principle.

Examination

After starting the engine, the still cold coolant begins to circulate in a small circle (circuit), which includes the stove (heating radiator) and the engine itself. This is necessary so that the engine reaches operating temperature faster. After reaching this mode, the thermostat valve opens - initially it is closed and the coolant also begins to circulate through the engine cooling radiator. Knowing these principles will tell you how to check your thermostat.

Without taking off

The easiest and most affordable way to check the functionality of the thermostat is to carry out a test directly on the car, without needing to remove it. The condition is that the engine is cold at the start of the test. The check begins by starting the engine. After this, you need to wait one and a half to two minutes for the engine to idle. Usually during this time the engine has not yet had time to warm up to operating temperature, and the coolant must circulate in a small circle (circuit).

Therefore, the engine cooling radiator should not be activated yet. To verify this, touch the rubber pipe fitting to the top of the radiator with your hand. If it is relatively cold, then the coolant is currently circulating only through the stove and engine. Therefore, the thermostat valve is in the closed position, as it should be.

After waiting some more time, and for greater persuasiveness, waiting until the temperature sensor needle shows 90 degrees Celsius, we again touch the inlet pipe of the engine radiator. The valve should already be open at this time, and thus hot coolant should flow into the radiator. The pipe will therefore be hot in this case. The lower pipe coming from the radiator should also be hot. If this does not happen, then we can conclude that the valve remained closed, that is, for some reason it was jammed. In this case, the thermostat must be urgently replaced to avoid engine overheating.

In this case, the engine operates at a low temperature, since it is difficult for it to reach the optimal temperature regime. This situation is not as critical as when the valve is constantly closed, but it is unpleasant due to increased fuel consumption.

It is also possible for the valve to jam in some intermediate state, between the open and closed positions. In this case, the engine will take longer to warm up and reach operating temperature. Such a malfunction is more difficult to determine, but it is also possible. How to check the serviceability of the thermostat in this case? To do this, you will have to remove it from the car.

To do this, first of all, you need to drain the coolant. It should be drained carefully to avoid possible contamination. This will allow it to be reused. To drain the coolant, you can use any container of the required size (every car enthusiast can find out the coolant volume of his car from the technical documentation for the car).

The container is placed under the drain plugs, after which they are unscrewed. In this case, it is necessary to unscrew the cap of the expansion tank to better drain the coolant. You can also find out where the coolant drain plugs are located from the technical documentation for the machine. Some car models do not have such plugs. In this case, it is necessary to place a container for draining the coolant under the lower pipe of the engine radiator.

After this, the clamp securing the pipe to the radiator is loosened, the pipe is removed, and the coolant is drained into a prepared container. Draining the coolant, and thereby avoiding its loss, you can remove the thermostat. This usually doesn't cause problems. The pipe(s) coming from it are also removed and it is unscrewed using the appropriate wrenches and a screwdriver.

After removal

After these operations we go to the kitchen. The verification method is very simple, wireless. There is no need to connect any devices. Home conditions are the most suitable. Place the thermostat in a saucepan or other metal container, fill it completely with water and place it on the fire. In this case, it is necessary to create such conditions so that its body does not touch the walls of the pan. You should also have a technical thermometer that can measure temperatures of at least 100 degrees Celsius.

We carefully monitor the thermometer readings and the condition of the valve. When the temperature indicated on the thermostat is reached, its valve should open. This action is achieved thanks to artificial wax, which is the working substance of the valve. When heated, the wax expands significantly in volume, activating the valve.

We make sure that the valve opened exactly at the specified temperature. If tearing does not occur, then the thermostat is inoperative. Then we take it out of the water and let it cool. When it cools down, the valve closes. If we do not observe this, then it must also be replaced. We hope that this information will be useful and help solve any problems that may arise.

The first way to check the serviceability of the VAZ-2115 thermostat

To make sure that the thermostat element of the vehicle's cooling system is in good or bad condition, you will need to perform the following steps:

Start the car engine.
Warm up the car for 10 minutes.
Open the hood lid.
Check by touch the radiator pipes - upper and lower:
if the thermostat is faulty (the valve is stuck in a closed or intermediate position), the pipes will overheat because the coolant circulates in a small circle.

As you can see, such a tactile testing method will not cause difficulties even for a novice car enthusiast.

How to replace a temperature maintenance device

There is nothing difficult about replacing. Even a person who has little knowledge of cars can do the job after familiarizing himself with the basic steps. If you follow all the recommendations, you can replace the device in a few minutes. For work you will need.

Silicone sealant.
Clamps.
Pipes (if the old ones have become unusable and cracked).
Antifreeze.
Container for draining coolant.
Set of keys and screwdrivers.

Place the car on a level surface and remove the engine protection. When draining the liquid, it will interfere and you will lose a lot of antifreeze. Remember the main rule: do not carry out repairs on a hot engine. The temperature of the antifreeze sometimes reaches 100-120 °C, which can cause burns and serious damage to the skin.

Now place a container under the drain hole on the radiator. Open the stove tap just in case. You don't need to drain all the fluid, just make the level lower than the thermostat position. The second drain hole is located on the engine block and is unscrewed with a 13mm wrench. Replacing an old-style thermostat involves loosening all the clamps on it and removing them.

Deposits and scale inside the housing directly indicate that it is time to clean the system. If it is such a “mess,” then the engine jacket is even worse. To get the job done, water with vinegar will come to your aid. If you do not want to use such a solution, you can purchase a special liquid in the store, the composition of which is less aggressive.

The unit that plays a primary role in the cooling system of a car is called a thermostat. It is available in every car where liquid cooling of the system is provided, and its dimensions range within five centimeters in diameter.

The principle of operation of the thermostat on the VAZ 2114

The constituent structure of the thermostat is a fairly simple mechanism that is suitable for distributing the movement of liquid over small and large cooling circles (this depends on the supply temperature).

Thermostat: 1 – inlet pipe (from the radiator); 2 – rubber insert; 3 - solid heat-sensitive filler; 4 – bypass valve spring; 5 – inlet pipe (from the engine); 6 – bypass valve; 7 - outlet pipe (to the pump); 8 - main valve spring; 9 - main valve; 10 – pipe (from the expansion tank); 11 – piston.

A simple standard class 2114 thermostat, which is installed directly at the factory, consists of the following types of spare parts:

Thermostat device

frame;
bypass valve spring;
bypass valve;
main valve spring;
main valve;
pipes;
piston with holder;
temperature sensitive element.

Thermostat operating principle

The temperature-sensitive element gives a signal to start the operation of this thermostat.
If the main valve is closed, then after the motor starts running, the liquid in the system heats up and begins to move in a smaller circle.
The liquid passes through the thermostat device and heats the sensitive element (it promotes expansion, thereby causing pressure on the valve).
When the coolant is heated to the desired point (87 degrees), the valve begins to open little by little, and the coolant is gradually placed in a larger circle.
If the heating of the coolant reaches 102 degrees, the valve will open completely and the fluid will circulate through the radiator.
Consequently, after the machine’s engine stops operating, the liquid will begin to cool, and the temperature-sensitive element will compress and the valve will return to its initial position due to the return spring.
It may happen that due to wear or damage (in extreme cases, factory defects), the VAZ 2114 thermostat becomes stuck in some position.
Accordingly, the car engine may take a very long time to warm up, or, on the contrary, the engine overheats, which is a dangerous sign.
Overheating of the motor can lead to massive damage, even self-destruction of the engine. In this case, major repairs will have to be carried out.

Thermostat failure

Like any other device, the thermostat on a VAZ 2110 car has its own signs of malfunction. In particular, if it fails, the operating temperature of the engine increases significantly. Please note that on VAZ cars, after the temperature-sensitive element breaks down, the valve moves to a position in which the liquid circulates in a smaller circle.

In other words, it does not enter the radiator. If this happened in the summer, then you will not see anything pleasant in such a breakdown. The most effective way to slightly cool the engine is to open the heater and turn on the blower fan at maximum speed.

Moreover, the engine will overheat not only while driving through a populated area at low speeds, but also when driving at higher speeds, when it would seem that the entire engine compartment is being blown in an increased mode.

But if you experience such symptoms on a VAZ 2110, you should not immediately blame the thermostat. It is quite possible that you have confused the failure of the fan switch sensor and the thermostat itself. On fuel-injected cars, the temperature in the thermostat housing is measured (the photo shows the location of the temperature sensor).

The electronic control unit, as well as the device in the panel in front of the driver, receives a signal from it. If the car’s fan operation is controlled through an electronic control unit, then the above-described circuit works. But on old VAZ 2110 and similar cars, a second sensor is used, which only works with the fan.

It is located in the cooling radiator housing. As a rule, it is connected to the negative power circuit without any switching devices, for example, an electromagnetic relay. As a result, the contacts inside the sensor burn and premature failure occurs.

Ways to check an element

You can check the operation of the thermostat yourself directly in the car. In the vast majority of cases, such diagnostics give reliable results. You need to start checking when the engine has completely cooled down: start it and periodically feel the lower part of the radiator and the pipe extending from the bottom back to the engine.

The serviceability of the thermostat is determined by the following signs:

at the initial stage of warming up, the radiator and the pipes suitable for it are completely cold;
at an antifreeze temperature of 40–60 °C, the upper supply hose begins to warm up, the lower one remains cold;
when the antifreeze heats up to 90–95 °C, the entire area of the heat exchanger and the lower pipe become hot, which indicates the opening of the damper and the movement of liquid along a large circuit.

It is recommended to carry out diagnostics until the sensor is triggered and the fan automatically turns on.

Deviations from the norm are interpreted as follows:

If the inlet and outlet pipes together with the radiator immediately warm up, the thermostat is stuck in the open position. Antifreeze initially flows in a large circle, hence the heating.
When the temperature reaches 90 °C, the bottom of the heat exchanger and the outgoing hose remain cold - the thermoelement damper is tightly closed, the part has become unusable.
When the top of the radiator is hot and the bottom is slightly warm, the thermostat is stuck half-closed.

Unlike the first two points, the last conclusion requires mandatory confirmation. It is quite difficult to make a clear diagnosis when the coolant is divided into two streams moving along different circuits. Uneven heating of the heat exchanger fins, turning on of the fan and temperature surges are indirect signs. Symptoms of an air lock in the cooling system appear similarly.

To clearly check the functionality of the thermostat, it will have to be removed from the car. Disassembly and diagnostics are performed in the following order:

Let the engine cool and drain the antifreeze - first from the cylinder block, then from the radiator. It is more convenient to empty the system into a wide container with low sides.
Loosen the clamps securing the pipes to the thermostat. Disable them and remove the element.
Inspect the part for a slightly open damper. If a malfunction is detected, further checking is pointless - you need to buy and install a new spare part.
Heat a pan of water on the stove. When its temperature approaches boiling, lower the thermostat into the container and watch the damper. It should open without delay.
Remove the part from the pan. When cooled, the thermoelement should immediately close the passage.

If during the inspection it turns out that the damper does not work or is jammed, the part must be replaced, since it cannot be repaired. Considering the large number of fakes on the auto parts market, you can first test a new thermostat in a store. Close the outlet pipe with your finger and try to blow air through the inlet pipe. A hermetically sealed damper will prevent this from happening.

Retest the new part at home by immersing it in a pan of boiling water. If the heat-sensitive mechanism does not work, return the defective part to the store or exchange it for another one.

Signs of thermostat malfunctions and diagnostics

During operation, the thermostat valve is subject to operational and temperature loads, that is, it can fail for many reasons. Among the main ones:

low-quality or used coolant (antifreeze);
mechanical or corrosive wear of the valve drive, etc.

A thermostat malfunction can be determined by the following symptoms:

The internal combustion engine of the car, without being subjected to special loads, overheats - the thermostat thermocouple has ceased to perform its functions. If everything is normal with the cooling fan, to check, dismantle the thermostat and check the functionality of the valve;

To check the thermostat on a VAZ 2110, you can use several methods, since there are several methods for diagnosing the thermostat for failure:

Start the car and warm up the engine to the desired temperature, first opening the hood. Find the lower pipe coming from the thermostat and feel it for heat. If the thermostat is in good condition, the pipe will heat up quickly;
Dismantle the thermostat and remove from it the thermoelement responsible for starting the coolant circulation. Place the thermocouple in water heated to a temperature of 75 degrees and keep it until the water warms up further (up to 90 degrees). In good condition, when the water is heated to 90 degrees, the rod from the thermoelement should extend.

If problems are found with the operation of the thermostat, it needs to be replaced. By the way, when buying a new thermostat, you need to check it by blowing into the fitting (no air should escape). Also, some owners, before installation, immerse the new device in hot water for insurance, as described above. This eliminates the risk of installing a faulty device.

How to check the thermostat

To fully check the thermostat and identify absolutely any of its malfunctions, it is enough to know only three methods. Two of them allow you to carry out diagnostics without draining the coolant or disassembling anything. Let's start with them.

Checking the thermostat with bare hands

All you need to check the thermostat using this method is a working engine temperature gauge on the instrument panel. By observing its behavior, you can promptly identify almost all of the malfunctions described above. Naturally, you cannot do without understanding how the cooling system in general, and the thermostat in particular, works.

The algorithm is like this:

While the engine is warming up, the temperature does not rise for a long time - the thermostat is either not completely closed, or it is completely stuck open.
The temperature almost never reaches normal - the thermostat either opens early or is always open.
The arrow goes off scale - it is obvious that the thermostat is not working. It is either stuck closed or is starting to close too early.

The disadvantage of this method is, of course, the low diagnostic accuracy. In particular, you need to remember that the temperature going through the roof does not always indicate a broken thermostat. The engine may overheat for other reasons. For example, the main radiator is dirty, the fan is not working, the coolant level is low, or there is air in the system.

Checking the thermostat with thermometers

Second way. Its use allows you to check the thermostat with high accuracy without removing it from the car. As the name suggests, you will need thermometers. And those that can be attached to the car’s cooling system. In addition, the measuring range of the instruments must be at least up to +150°C. The most convenient tool for these purposes is a multimeter with a thermocouple and a corresponding function. A kitchen thermometer, if available, will also work.

The algorithm for checking the thermostat with thermometers is as follows:

Initially, the engine should be cold.
The first thermocouple is attached to the branch pipe of the small circuit of the cooling system closer to the thermostat. Be sure to ensure that the surrounding air does not introduce errors. Therefore, you should wrap the thermocouple with electrical tape.
The second one is wound on the other side. That is, between the thermostat and the main radiator. Closer to the first one.
We start the engine and watch the temperatures before and after the thermostat.
We draw appropriate conclusions about its performance based on the information presented above.

Here is an example for clarity. Let's say you are warming up a cold engine, and the temperature goes up on two devices at once. This clearly indicates that the thermostat is stuck open. If it is working properly, then the small circuit should warm up, and the large circuit should remain almost cold until the motor reaches operating temperature. When it is reached, the temperature in the large circuit should begin to rise, and in the small circuit it should fluctuate back and forth.

Checking the thermostat in boiling water

A folk method, one might say. Simple, clear and accurate. The only drawback is that the thermostat must be removed from the car to check. In addition, you will need a container of water, a stove and a thermometer to measure the temperature of liquids. As a matter of fact, if the thermostat is stuck in some position, then you will understand it immediately after disassembly. That is, there will be no need to check anything in boiling water. If visually everything looks functional, we proceed to the test.

The algorithm is like this:

Secure the thermostat in a container of water so that it is completely immersed in it, but does not touch the walls or bottom.
Similarly, install a thermometer in the water.
Heat the water until the thermostat begins to open slightly.
Record the water temperature.
Heat until boiling.
Note the temperature at which the thermostat opened fully.
Check the resulting numbers either with the inscriptions on the thermostat itself or with the instruction manual for your car.

It is clear that this method allows you to accurately identify all thermostat malfunctions, including late or early operation.

Thermostat cost

Like the cost of any part, the price of this device depends on the make of a particular car, but is not considered an expensive auto part. The price for most VAZ models will fluctuate around 250 rubles, a thermostat in the housing will cost no less than 400 rubles, but, for example, a Lada Granta 8V will cost no less than 1,200 rubles. The cost of thermostats for foreign cars ranges from 600 rubles to several thousand, and common brands are GATES and WAHLER thermostats, which are known as high-quality products. There are also quite flattering reviews about Vernet.

Failure of this unit inevitably leads to a number of problems - overheating of the motor or the inability of it to reach the desired temperature.

That's why a car enthusiast needs to know how to check the thermostat and what malfunctions of this device exist.

Common causes of breakdowns; Ways to solve problems; We check the device without removal and with dismantling; Features of testing on VAZ cars; We check the device upon purchase; Let's summarize.

Common reasons for device failure

During the operation of the car, the following thermostat breakdowns and the reasons for their occurrence are possible.

1. Increased heating time of the power unit.

The motor operates unstably (for example, it trips), which leads to excessive fluctuations of the thermostat valve and damage to its seat. Due to exposure to strong vibration, damage to the temperature-sensitive element occurs.

The result is that coolant gets inside the unit (wax comes out), which leads to a malfunction of the device, which stops opening or closing the valve when the required temperature level is reached.

The cause of such a breakdown may be the ingress of coolant into a special element that controls the temperature level of antifreeze in the system.

The result is an increase in the total volume of the filler and premature opening of the valve.

3. The thermostat opens with a delay.

The reason is the appearance of a leak of a special filler that allows the device to respond to temperature changes.

Changing the volume of this element downwards will require more heating to open the valve.

The result is that the thermostat operates with a certain time delay.

4. The engine regularly overheats.

For example, situations are possible when the thermostat allows coolant to pass through on time, but the engine still reaches a high temperature.

The reason is that the fluid is not passing through the main radiator, but is being discharged through the return line back into the engine.

5. The thermostat valve is not fully open due to mechanical damage.

The result is a small volume of liquid entering the radiator to completely reduce the temperature in the system.

6. The valve is not fully closed.

This is possible when coolant “sneaks” into the working element.

Due to the increase in the volume of the working element, the valve disc cannot close completely.

7. Incorrect operation of the device.

For example, opening and closing it ahead of time. This is possible in case of failures in the factory settings and excessive overheating of the cooling system of the power unit.

8. Destruction of the rubber seal.

Due to a breakdown, oil gets into the coolant. The latter acts as a solvent for the rubber valve seal (rubber simply cannot withstand the impact).

Possible solutions to the problem include:

1. If the coolant temperature exceeds the norm (provided the thermostat is working and it is correctly selected), it is necessary to replace the device, but with a higher opening temperature. As a rule, this step is recommended for motorists who operate cars in the mountains and in regions with high average annual temperatures.

3. Early opening of the thermostat is possible due to excessive pressure in the system. Zones of different pressure often appear around the device, which leads to early operation of the valve. There are several reasons:

failure of the cooling system; The thermostat spring has weakened; The engine runs at higher speeds during the warm-up period. 4. The engine takes too long to warm up.

incomplete closing of the thermostat valve; violation of the integrity of the valve plate (for example, a gap has appeared); Incorrect thermostat position (possibly changing the location of the air valve). 5. The engine heats up above normal even in a situation where the thermostat is fully open:

traffic jams or low coolant level; failure of the radiator (clogging of its cells); failure of the cooling pump or fan; contamination of the cooling system.

The problems described above can appear at any time. To avoid engine overheating and damage, you need to know how to check the thermostat directly on the car and after dismantling it at home.

It is important to know that after starting the engine, the thermostat valve is still closed and the coolant flows through a small circuit (through the engine and the stove). This allows the power unit to quickly reach the desired temperature.

As soon as the required level is reached, the valve opens and coolant flows through the main radiator.

Types of VAZ thermostats and which one is better

Visually, even an experienced salesman cannot distinguish a kopek thermostat from a Niv one. Because the difference is inside them and in the location of the pipes. All Togliatti thermostats are made according to the ancient Fiat design - they are removed from the cylinder head into a separate unit and fixed to the pipes and hoses of the cooling system. Here are the main types of VAZ thermostats:

All classic Zhigulis had a 2101 thermostat under the hood, which can be identified by the location of the pipes; they are turned opposite each other almost at a right angle

However, the most important difference is that the thermal operating mode of rear-wheel drive Zhiguli engines required blocking the valve at 80 degrees and fully opening it at an antifreeze temperature of 95 degrees

Exactly the same device was and is being installed on the Niva. The only difference is that the angle between the pipes tends to 180 degrees.

Thermostat VAZ 21213, 21214 (Niva)

The eight thermostat is installed on all carburetor Samaras in their countless modifications. The difference with classic motors in terms of thermoregulation is that in thermostat 2108 the valve should operate seven degrees later. This happened due to the more advanced design of the combustion chamber, so until the antifreeze temperature reaches 87 degrees, the valve should be closed, and only at 102 degrees should it open.

Modern thermostats on the spare parts market are not distinguished by high accuracy and high quality workmanship, so after a series of tests the plant gave two degrees to the manufacturers. As a result, on boxes with thermostats for the entire Samara family, you can often see the number 85. Visually, the 2108 thermostat is distinguished by the presence of a thin pipe to remove possible air bubbles.

The tenth VAZ family received exactly the same thermostat housing as on the classic, but in a mirror image. It does not have a small pipe for air outlet, since the design for the carburetor tens provided a separate tee, which greatly complicated the decoupling of the hoses under the hood. By the way, the figure-eight device is also perfect for carburetor tens; the only thing you need to do is tightly plug the small air hole.

Such thermostats have become the most popular, so when purchasing them, you should definitely look inside; there should be a curtain made of plastic or metal, which better redistributes the flow of liquid to the thermoelement. If it is not there, the valve response temperature can differ greatly (up to 10-15 degrees) from the nominal value, which leads to engine overheating.

Keep the temperature!

KEEP THE TEMPERATURE!

The thermostat is a simple device. But very important. Errors when replacing it are unacceptable.

The thermostat in the engine is used to maintain the proper temperature in the cooling system. But its functions are not limited to this: power, fuel consumption, exhaust emissions, and the efficiency of the heater all depend on a simple device. And also durability, engine life.

On all VAZ cars, the thermostat is removed from the engine block head and is an independent element. Today we know the following models:

2101 - all VAZ “classics” are equipped with these, starting with the first-born VAZ 2101. The valve begins to open at a temperature of 80±2°, and is fully open at 95±2°. A distinctive feature of the “first” thermostat is that the pipes are rotated relative to each other at an angle of slightly more than 90 degrees (photo 1 on the left).

2121 - for Niva. In terms of filling, the thermostat is practically “zero first”. Only due to the layout features, its pipes are located on the body at an angle of almost 180 degrees. By the way, the modernized Niva VAZ 21213 has a thermostat 2101.

2108 - the next generation of thermostats (photo 1 in the center) - intended for Samara engines. The latter have a more advanced combustion chamber shape and a higher compression ratio; their temperature regime is 7° higher than the classic ones. This improves the power and economic characteristics of the machine. The “eight” thermostat begins to open at 87°, and is fully open at 102°. True, today on the market there are “eighth” thermostats with a valve opening temperature of 85°. It’s easy to explain: the quality of thermostats today is not up to par; the valve often opens with a delay, creating a risk of engine overheating. So they dropped two degrees. "in reserve."

Thermostat 2108 pipes are located almost like at “zero first”, but seem to be mirrored in relation to it. In addition, closer to the bottom, the “eighth” has an additional thin pipe for connection to the expansion tank (see photo 1 in the center). This is the path for air bubbles to exit the cooling system if they somehow get there.

2110 - structurally repeats the “eight”, it has almost the same characteristics (circulation in the “large circle” will begin at 87 or 85°). Externally, it is even more similar (but also a mirror image, do not confuse it!) with “zero first”, since it does not have an additional thin pipe (photo 1, right).

On the VAZ 2110, the “road” for air was paved from the tee adjacent to the thermostat. The latter is intended for cars with carburetor engines (VAZ 2110 and 21111). If necessary, you can also install a “figure eight” thermostat on them, you just need to thoroughly plug its air pipe.

It happens that manufacturers of these products arbitrarily simplify the design, so when buying a thermostat, look into it. At the top of the housing there should be a vertical strip of metal or plastic, resembling a curtain, which covers the additional valve in a sector of approximately 270° (photo 2). Without this curtain, the liquid mixes less well, heats the thermoelectric element less and more slowly - and the thermostat switches to the “large circle” with a delay at elevated temperatures.

2112 - next generation thermostat - for injection engines (photo 3). It differs from the previous ones in that, in addition to the main function, it also increases the efficiency of the heater. For this purpose, the resistance of the “small circle” was increased, thereby forcing the coolant to flow more intensively through the heater radiator. This thermostat has a throttle hole in the inlet pipe. The transition from “small” to “large circle” begins at a temperature of 85°. By the way, the temperature threshold for the start of operation of any thermostat is squeezed out on the bottom (photo 4).

Let's now move on to the sensor (photo 5) for turning on the electric fan of the cooling system. Today, two generations of sensors are produced - two-amp and twenty-amp. Moreover, each, in turn, is divided into two categories - for classics and for front-wheel drive models.

The first generation includes veteran sensors TM-108. Since they could not directly switch large currents, this role was assigned to a special power relay, triggered by a command from the sensor. For classics, this sensor had an index of 2103–3808800. Let's remember: the “treshka” was the first VAZ car without a constantly rotating mechanical impeller. Fan switch-on temperature is 92°, switch-off temperature is 87°.

As already noted, the Samara engine has a more severe temperature regime. Therefore, here the electric fan turns on at a higher temperature than the classic one. The sensor contacts (2108–3828010) close at 99° and open at 94°.

New generation sensors do not need the help of a power relay - they are able to switch current up to 20 A themselves. Their response temperatures remain the same, and the indices are 661.3710 (for classics, catalog number 2110-3828010-10) and 66.3710 (for Samara and "ten" with engines 21083, number 2110–3828010). At the same time, on all models “ten”, “Samar” and “Lada” the use of a new fuse block is provided - a European type.

Purpose and design of the VAZ-2107 thermostat

In the engine cooling system, the thermostat is installed at the intersection of the pipes from the engine and radiator to the pump. After starting the engine when cold, the thermostat is closed - it blocks the passage from the radiator when it is completely open from the engine. The coolant circulates in a small circle through the cylinder block and pump, which ensures quick warm-up of the engine. When the antifreeze temperature reaches values close to the operating temperature (for a VAZ-2107 with a carburetor 80.6–81.5 °C), the main thermostat valve begins to open, freeing the passage of the pipe from the radiator, and at the same time the bypass valve begins to block the flow of antifreeze from the engine. The pump also begins to “drive” the antifreeze in a large circle: cylinder block, radiator, thermostat, pump. When the antifreeze temperature reaches operating values (for VAZ-2107 94 °C), the thermostat opens completely:

the pipe from the engine is completely blocked;
from the radiator is completely open.

Antifreeze circulates only in a large circle. When cooling the antifreeze, the reverse process occurs.

The VAZ-2107 temperature regulator, regardless of the engine type (with injector or carburetor), has the following design:

non-separable cylindrical body with three pipes;
directly the thermostat itself.

Important points

When replacing a thermostat, there are a couple of important nuances that cannot be ignored. Here they are:

on the latest models of “sevens” (cars 2010 and older), the clamps on the thermostat are not worm-type, but band-type. This means that you won’t be able to remove them with a regular flat-head screwdriver, and to remove them you will have to use a special clamp wrench, which not every car owner has in their garage. If the car owner is the “happy” owner of a thermostat with band clamps, then there is only one way out: go to the store for a tool. A clamp wrench costs about 300 rubles;
Even after draining the antifreeze from the system, personal protective equipment must not be neglected. Please remember: you cannot completely drain the coolant from the machine. Some part of this liquid will still remain in the thermostat pipes and in the thermostat itself. Taking into account the fact that many car enthusiasts prefer to remove thermostats from below, without leaving the inspection hole, antifreeze can easily get into the driver’s eyes. This, in turn, can lead to serious eye irritation and even blindness. Therefore, you should only change the thermostat while wearing safety glasses and gloves.

So, changing the thermostat on the “seven” is not a difficult task. Preparatory procedures take much more time: cooling the engine and completely draining the antifreeze from the system. Nevertheless, even a novice car owner can cope with these procedures. The main thing is to take your time and strictly follow the recommendations given above.

How to check a car's thermostat

There are two main ways to check a car's thermostat. One of them is carried out without removing the part, but requires a pyrometer, and the second is simpler, but the element will need to be removed from the engine during the test.

Checking the thermostat without removing it from the engine

As you know, the thermostat housing is connected to the upper radiator hose, which is included in a large circle of coolant circulation. Accordingly, with the thermostat working, after starting the engine, the upper radiator hose should remain cold (slightly warm) for some time until antifreeze is released through it.

To check the thermostat without removing it from the engine, get a pyrometer (temperature measuring device). You may come across the opinion that the check should be done without a device, measuring the temperature with your hands, but this is quite dangerous, given the large number of moving parts when the engine is running.

Point the pyrometer at the upper radiator hose and start the engine (cold start). For two or three minus periods, observe the device’s indicators. Next, draw a conclusion about the serviceability of the thermostat according to the following rules:

The hose was cold for two or three minutes (or its temperature rose slightly), and then quickly warmed up. This indicates that the thermostat is working properly, and it switched the coolant circulation from a small circle to a large circle after the engine has sufficiently warmed up;
The hose initially warmed up slowly. In this case, we can say that the thermostat is stuck in the open position and the antifreeze does not circulate in a small circle;
The hose did not begin to warm up quickly after two or three minutes. That is, the thermostat is faulty and it does not switch the coolant circulation from a small circle to a large one.

Important: While checking the thermostat, monitor the engine temperature on the instrument panel. If the thermostat is stuck and does not switch the coolant to a large circle, the engine will begin to overheat, which can lead to the failure of expensive parts

Checking the thermostat in the pan

A widespread and well-known way to test the thermostat yourself is using a saucepan. As you might guess, before diagnostics you will need to remove the thermostat from the car engine and bring it home. After this, do the following:

Take a pot and fill it with water;
Inspect the thermostat housing and read the technical information on it, which indicates at what temperature it should switch;
Hang the thermostat in the pan so that it is immersed in water, but does not touch the walls and bottom of the container, that is, it comes into contact only with water;
Start heating the water and put a regular thermometer in it to measure the temperature of the liquid;
When the water approaches the thermostat switching value from closed to open, make sure this happens. Also compare the thermometer reading, recording the temperature at which the coolant circuit switching valve opens with the ideal values indicated on the device body.

If the valve opens when heating water, track its behavior when cooling the liquid, checking at what temperature it returns to its original position. Based on the data obtained, draw a conclusion about the functionality of the thermostat.

Reasons why a thermostat may fail

The thermostat is responsible for maintaining the optimal temperature of the car engine.

An experienced driver can determine a malfunction of the VAZ-2110 thermostat for indirect reasons. They can be divided into the following points:

Thermostat takes too long to heat up . This can happen due to unstable operation of the engine, which produces strong vibration. This can damage the valve of the device, causing antifreeze to get inside the thermostat. As a result, the device will work more slowly.
The valve may also open earlier than expected . As a rule, this is the result of antifreeze getting into the element responsible for coolant temperature.
The thermostat may open with a delay . Most often, this occurs due to leakage of the filler, which is responsible for the valve opening temperature.
The thermostat works correctly, but the engine constantly overheats . This may occur due to the coolant moving only in a small circle. The engine may also overheat due to cracks in the pipes or radiator.
Mechanical damage to the thermostat valve can also prevent it from working correctly.
Manufacturing defects . Unfortunately, domestically produced spare parts are often produced with factory defects, which can lead to a whole series of unnecessary work, since after changing the thermostat, the car owner will look for the cause of the breakdown anywhere, but not in it.
Destruction of the rubber seal . If oil gets into the coolant, it can quickly render all rubber parts and pipes that were in contact with the oil unusable.

Oil causes seals to break down.

How to solve problems on the VAZ-2110?

Most thermostat problems can be resolved on your own. As a rule, VAZ-2110 owners do exactly this.

It happens that, despite the normal operation of the thermostat, the temperature of the coolant in the engine is constantly above normal. If you are sure that the thermostat is working properly and the cooling radiator is new, clean and undamaged, then you should replace the device with another one.

Thermostat VAZ 2115: Replacement, check where it is located

A thermostat is a sensor designed to maintain a certain temperature. The thermostat blocks the path of antifreeze or any other coolant into the radiator until the engine reaches a certain operating temperature. The operating temperature of the engine is considered to be 90 degrees. The thermostat opens the coolant path at 95 degrees Celsius. Thanks to the thermostat, the engine spends less time warming up to operating temperature. It follows that the thermostat saves your pennies in your pocket and protects the environment. And it is located between the radiator and the engine.

Table of contents

Replacement How to check Which one is better to put Where is it located What does it look like

Replacement

First of all, you need to check whether the thermostat is really not working. We do the following:

1. start the car and feel the lower radiator pipe, it should be cold;

2. wait until the engine warms up to a temperature of 80-85 degrees and feel the pipe again, it should become warm.

Let's move on to the process of removing the thermostat. First, drain the coolant (you can only drain it from the radiator). Now loosen the hose clamps that are attached to the thermostat and remove them.

Then we remove the thermostat from the VAZ 2115.

To check if the thermostat is working, immerse it in water and start heating it; when the water temperature reaches 83-87 degrees, you should see the valve begin to open. If the valve stays still, the thermostat is faulty.

After installing the new thermostat, be sure to refill the coolant.

How to check

It is very easy to check the operation of the thermostat without removing it from the car. It is enough to start the cooled engine and check the temperature of the radiator pipes. In normal mode, when the engine is running, for some time after starting, only the upper radiator pipe will heat up slightly, and when the threshold value is reached, the lower pipe will also heat up sharply. This is evidence of normal valve operation. If heating of both radiator pipes begins simultaneously, this indicates that it is not functioning properly; most likely, the valve is constantly open.

The constantly open thermostat valve allows you to easily reach the nearest service station or spare parts store. It is much worse if the thermostat gets stuck closed, as there is a serious risk of engine overheating. Sometimes tapping on the thermostat body helps for a short time, but if the valve cannot budge, it should be removed or bent with a screwdriver. The thermostat must be replaced in the nearest locality.

Which one is better to put

It will also fit with 099 and 09, and with 083 and 093. It’s not a matter of VAZ models, the fact that components from one model fit another is a normal phenomenon for many manufacturers.

You need to buy a thermostat based on only a few things.

This is the metal from which the thermostat is made; preference should be given to stainless steel,

or brass and the second criterion is not to take Chinese spare parts under any circumstances, even if they are given away for free.

There is no option to check the thermostat while standing at the counter.

Many citizens begin to put pressure on the valve for some reason, apparently they want to check how the “spring” works, but there is no spring there, there is a special spiral made of a special material that operates only at a certain temperature.

If the seller has hot water, then lower the thermostat into the water and check the smooth movement of the rod.

Although, to be honest, it’s unlikely that the seller needs this.

Conclusion: pay attention to the metal first. Secondly to the country of manufacture, VAZ 2115 is a Russian car

Where is

It is located under the air filter housing on injection cars, but on carburetor Samara 2 (namely, the first VAZ 2115 were produced for a couple of years in a carburetor version), it is located exactly there, but the housing on them has simply been moved to a slightly different place, so it is no longer necessary on the carburetor It doesn’t take much trouble to remove the housing, but I just threw off the high-voltage wires and started working, but it doesn’t take long to remove the housing and on the injector it 100% needs to be removed to get to the thermostat, and after the housing is put aside, you will immediately see the thermostat is not armed it will even be visible to the eye (For clarity, it is indicated in the photo below with a red arrow) and next to it there is also a battery (indicated by a blue arrow) so that you understand 100% where it is and do not lose sight of it.

How to remove the old thermostat VAZ-2110

You do not need to have any special knowledge for this procedure; just follow simple instructions. First, the task of the car repairer is to drain the old coolant. How to do this correctly?

disconnect the engine splash guard installed on the VAZ-2110;
unscrew and remove the plug from the tank;
To prevent coolant from spilling past, place a 6-8 liter container under the radiator, this is the maximum volume of coolant;
the container should be placed directly under the hole located on the cylinder block;
Using a size 13 wrench, unscrew the plug located on the drain hole on the block, and then drain the remaining fluid.

Removing the thermostat, in turn, looks like this:

Locate the bleeder hose coming from the radiator.
There are clamps on this hose that need to be loosened.
Now locate the inlet hose of the pump pipe and the hose that serves as the connection between the thermostat and the outlet pipe. Loosen the clamps again.
Remove the old model.

Installation of a new sample is carried out in the reverse order. It is best to mount a six-hole device, and if you have the ability to create and modernize different designs, you can try to modify the product. Don't forget to fill the cooling system with new solution.

How to replace the thermostat on a VAZ-2109 with an 8 or 16 valve engine?

This operation should not cause difficulties, and any car owner should be able to handle it, regardless of his experience in the field of car repair. What actions need to be performed are described in this article. The thermostat is a mechanical unit; its operation is based on physical rules. Inside it is wax, which is sensitive to temperature changes. When the coolant is heated, the wax melts and a damper opens, allowing coolant to enter the system, where it is cooled.

Thermostat design VAZ 2109: 1 – inlet pipe from the radiator, 2 – rubber insert, 3 – solid heat-sensitive filler, 4 – bypass valve spring, 5 – inlet pipe from the engine, 6 – bypass valve, 7 – outlet pipe to the pump, 8 – main valve spring, 9 – main valve, 10 – pipe from the expansion tank, 11 – piston.

From the VAZ-2109 to the modern Granta model, thermostats perform their function adhering to one principle, and they are interchangeable with each other. The new unit is smaller in size than the old VAZ models; this fact will not interfere with installing the part from the old VAZ model.

To make the stove heat better, a thermostat from the new VAZ model is installed for this purpose.

Clutch slipping after replacing all its parts

After replacing all elements, adjustment is required, but many car owners ignore this point. The cause is slipping, the car accelerates slowly, the engine speed does not correspond to the speed of the car. The engine just roars, and the car is driving quite slowly, as they say, slipping.

In cars with a mechanical clutch cable, adjustment is made by the cable itself. In hydraulically driven machines, this process is carried out using a clutch rod. In modern cars, you often come across rods that do not have adjustments. But this does not mean at all that it cannot be produced. In such cases, adjustment of the clutch pedal itself is provided, but not everyone knows about this possibility. ”alt=””>

How to replace a thermostat on a Priora

In order for the Lada Priora 16 valves, and any other car model, to work properly and not let the driver down on the road, the car owner must monitor the technical serviceability of the car and promptly repair any breakdowns. If during the next check an antifreeze leak is detected, then you need to first check the thermostat, which will most likely have to be removed and replaced. Replacing a thermostat on a Priora is not a difficult task, so every car owner can cope with such a task, if, of course, this process is carried out according to the instructions provided by professionals in their field.

Replacing the thermostat on a VAZ 2114

How will the replacement of the thermostat on a VAZ 2114 proceed?

It is performed in this order:

Install the car on a special platform, remove the air filter from under the hood.
We take out the expansion tank and drain all the liquid present.
Loosen the cooling system hoses and remove them.
The nuts that hold the thermostat housing are unscrewed.
We remove the old thermostat, and if dismantling is difficult, you need to rock it.
Remove traces of sealant from the specially designated area for the old thermostat and fill in new sealant, placing a gasket on top.
Next, install the new thermostat and secure its position with nuts.
We apply a layer of sealant to the pipes of the device, put on the hoses and secure them with clamps.
After 2 hours, pour new coolant into the system.
Now we start the engine and monitor the temperature readings to make sure whether the device is working properly or if something needs to be fixed.