Greetings to all blog readers, and today’s topic will be devoted to such a process as replacing the electric lock in the rear door on a Lada Kalina car. So far, unfortunately, we haven’t been able to demonstrate everything on the front door, but everything is ahead—we’ll definitely look at it in future articles.
So, to replace the internal door lock on Kalina, and specifically on the rear door, we will need the following tool:
- Phillips screwdriver
- 8 mm head
- Ratchet handle or crank
Instructions for replacing the rear door lock on Kalina
- The first step is to perform a procedure such as removing the rear door trim.
- Also, for greater convenience, you can remove the door glass, although it is not necessary. But, again, I repeat, doing everything without glass is much more convenient.
- When the glass is removed, from the inside of the door you need to get to the block with the connector and, pressing the latch, disconnect it.
- Using a screwdriver, as well as light finger efforts, release the drive rods from the lock
- From the end of the door, unscrew the three screws securing the lock.
- From the inside we remove the lock from the door
- Install the lock in reverse order
In order not to show off everything and to convey everything as clearly as possible, I tried to make a video review of this repair.
Construction of standard locks: features and disadvantages
The Kalina rear door lock has a simple mechanism when compared with the devices equipped in foreign cars. The VAZ mechanism has to be changed more often than foreign cars. The electric lock circuit for a Zhiguli hatchback, sedan, station wagon is concluded in the operation of the left and right core blocks. When they close, the door is blocked, when it opens, it opens.
A car lock is a device consisting of a cylinder, pins, teeth and a rod. The inner block can be replaced, then the main body does not have to be dismantled. The cost of the core is about 500 rubles, and the one-piece device is 1500 rubles. The interlocking pins create the coding, but if one of the teeth is broken, one side of the core will not fit into the groove when the key is turned.
If the part creaks when opening or the key operates with difficulty, these are the first signs that the Grant door lock cylinder needs to be repaired or replaced.
Video on replacing the rear door lock on Kalina
This guide was made using the example of a 2011 car, so if any nuances or inaccuracies arise that could cause you doubts, keep in mind the year of manufacture of the car.
If you have any questions on this topic, or have something to add to this material, do not forget to leave comments below. I forgot to say about the cost of the new part. And the price for a lock for Kalina’s back door ranges from 850 to 1200 rubles.
The problem with the door locks was discovered immediately after purchasing the car. And if the locks of the front doors were well developed after some time, the rear ones were not developed at all... Moreover, the lock of the right rear door often jammed and blocked the door when trying to open it from the outside. I had to manually lift the lock button... Traditional solutions in this case were hopeless. Neither lubricating the locks nor adjusting the hinges helped. The door locks needed to be replaced with new ones. In Togliatti I bought rear door locks from Valeo
. Although, in my opinion, they were installed exactly the same from the factory. But be that as it may, the new locks, when tested in the store, worked clearly and smoothly.
Lada Kalina door lock repair
Dismantling Kalina locks
Tools and materials: (for torture and attempts to restore the castle) - grinder
- set of screwdrivers - soldering iron - welding
1) One of the experimental samples on the operating stool. Let's start disassembling. You will need a set of “stars”.
Unscrew
2) We gradually disassemble it into details. And we remember what and where it was installed. This is an important point. Otherwise, you'll get tired later.
And here is the first bummer. Rivet installed. Many people stop at this point and do not dare to further dismantle the non-removable lock. What a tautology
Attention: the spring is installed from inside the mechanism. She gave me a brainstorming session afterwards.
3) The lock is already faulty, there is nothing to lose. We grind the rivet with a grinder.
The rivet was removed with a grinder. We continue to disassemble
4) We get to the insides. The plastic parts (gray and black) are sealed together in several places around the perimeter, approximately 10 points. Either pick them out with a knife, or, as I did later, use a soldering iron.
5) remove the power contacts and limit switches, simply pull them up.
6) Between the covers there is a rubber gasket for sealing.
7) A copper (and most likely brass) ribbed tip is rigidly fixed to the motor shaft. From the factory it has a plastic tip sealed on top. Due to frequent use, the connection was destroyed and the motor did not open or close the lock.
Using a soldering iron, I carefully soldered the plastic tip as best I could. The motor power contacts are simply inserted into the motor from above. There are two limit switches inside
9) I disassembled the front and rear locks and compared the internal actuating part. Inside the plastic box, the only difference is the limiter. When opening the front door, it does not allow closing the door “latch” (door lock lock)
10) I also disassembled the mechanical part of the lock. We carefully remember what and where it came from. I didn't do this and had to lose a lot of time during assembly. I had to select parts using intuition and direct poke. I noted the location of the spring, which you can’t just install, it still gets in the way of slipping out.
Lock assembly
11) The locking tab is pushed back by this tension spring. When disassembled, it flies out and can be installed back through a special hole that the designers have provided.
the spring is simply inserted into the hole and fixed at the end in the seat.
12) We clamp the metal clips to fix the structure on the plastic case. There are only four of them, one from each corner
13) Put the plastic white lever in place.
14) We try on the actuator levers, the clamps of which were previously ground off with a grinder. There is nothing left to rivet there, so nothing else came to mind other than welding it. perform
15) There is no semi-automatic machine, so we cook with an electric arc. There was a syringe with water for cooling.
16) I’m not much of a welder, it turned out what happened. The plastic got a little hot, but not scary.
17) I made another “rivet”. The spring is marked - the one that is installed from inside the mechanical part. If you forget her
installing and welding rivets will turn out very funny...
18) Lock assembly. Can be installed in place.
The design of the rear lock is different from the front one. This also made me look for the missing parts that were right under my nose.
And now some conclusions:
1) One new lock costs about 1500-1660 rubles. The savings are obvious. 2) It is quite possible to disassemble something that is not collapsible, if it is really necessary. 3) Assembling what has been disassembled and making it work is also possible, you just need to be very careful.
next article:
Lighting in the feet of Lada Kalina
Making boards So, I continue LED tuning of the interior. Usually, when they talk about highlighting the legs, they mean
Rating 2.25 [2 vote(s)]
How to dismantle the lock to replace the cylinder?
You can gain access to the lock mechanism by removing the plastic upholstery inside the luggage compartment. This protective component is fixed by means of two bolts, which are located in the places where the special handle is installed. They are also called latch caps. They are pryed off with an ordinary screwdriver.
Structurally, the trunk lock in the Lada Kalina is made of two parts, regardless of the body type, hatchback, station wagon or sedan. They are presented in the form of a cylinder and the unlocking mechanism itself. If it is necessary to replace the trunk lock, then the dismantling of these components is carried out in a separate order.
How is the activator installed?
The only way to get inside the trunk of a Lada Kalina is this manipulation - turn the key and press the button. This action is not always associated with convenience. For example, in bad weather or when your hands are full, this is not easy to do. This circumstance prompts owners to consider purchasing and installing an activator. Installing this useful element is quite simple. Here you will need a self-tapping screw, which will secure the device we are considering. To check the functionality of the activator, you should connect it with the standard connector from the on-board network.
After the current supply to the activator is stopped, the door is locked with the first latch, but remains not completely closed. To get back inside the luggage compartment you will need to use the key.
Installing a push-button lock is not a very difficult task. To implement it, you will need to assemble a circuit, which requires wiring. Here you will need to “attract” the programmable channel present in the alarm.
You can connect the device using two options.
- We connect the button with the positive output of the activator (12 V), bypassing the relay. The advantage of this scheme is the absence of unnecessary components and simple connection. As a negative aspect, it should be noted the need to lay additional wire lines.
- The second method is more labor-intensive. Here you will need to use additional components (diodes). You also need to find the ground connection point. The main advantage is the need for a minimum number of wire lines.
Experts prefer the first method because it is simpler. For switching, you can use copper wire type PV-3, the cross-section of which is 1 mm2. Laying should be done on the left side along the thresholds. You can connect by means of a clamp and subsequent wrapping with electrical tape.
Electric drive: easy installation
The manipulation algorithm is very simple. Here you will need to make the rotary plate together with the rod yourself. The wiring is laid directly to the lock and connected to a special control unit. When the car is “disarmed”, the electric drive of the luggage lock is activated following the unlocking of the button responsible for opening the rear door of the Lada Kalina.
The whole essence of the action comes down to connecting the electric lock to two cable lines. You can buy the product at a specialized retail outlet. The end of the luggage compartment will need to be hidden in order to prevent the risk of moisture getting into it. If this is neglected, then with the penetration of water a short circuit will be observed in the designated area.
Much attention should be paid to the area near the door hinges, because broken wires are a common occurrence here. To prevent this, it is recommended to regularly monitor this section of the highway.
Before starting the procedure for installing the electric drive in a Lada Kalina car, you will need to remove the plastic trim. Here you need to be careful not to damage the specified protective element.
The choice of a lock for LADA Kalina should mean that there is no subsequent need for modifications before installation. This means drilling additional holes.
An important point in the installation procedure is the laying of electrical lines. For these purposes, you will need about 3.5 m of appropriate cable. You can use standard wiring suitable for the rear door. The power source can be a cigarette lighter socket. It is also important to install the fuse correctly.
We do all switching in LADA Kalina in accordance with the diagram.
Important! The main line in this version may include a wire that goes to the courtesy lamp for lighting the space inside the trunk.
Replacing the larva in Kalina
First of all, replacing the lock elements means that the door trim will be completely missing. Therefore, first we will figure out how to dismantle the trim on Lada Kalina cars. The second chapter is devoted to how to remove the larva and install a new one in its place. The last step will actually be the simplest.
Removing the door trim yourself
The casing is attached not only to screws, but also to plastic pistons. The number of screws holding the part in question is four:
Front door trim 1118
Numbers here indicate all fastening elements. But to get to them, you need to remove the screw cap “3”, as well as the inner door handle. The pawl handle also needs to be unscrewed.
If these actions are completed successfully, the casing begins to be dismantled, moving it away from the metal. Dismantling is carried out starting from any of the corners, but care must be taken: the pistons holding the plastic are fragile.
How to remove plastic trim
If the package includes power windows, you will need to disconnect the connector connected to the button block. Also, another similar connector is present in most trim levels - where there is a central lock. Both connectors must be disconnected.
All the steps described here involve electronics in any case.
Therefore, at the stage before dismantling the trim, you need to open the hood, take the “10” key and unscrew the negative terminal. We are talking about the battery terminal, which can be connected last (when the last screw is screwed in). Anyone who breaks this rule will look for blown fuses. Draw a conclusion.
How to get to the door mechanism
According to the recommendation of the magazine "Behind the Wheel", in the absence of casing, access to the lock is always available. Simply put, there will be no need to remove the inner lining made of metal. The steel sheet is simply bent to the side.
Lock mechanism
The rotating part with the protrusion is called the “drive”, and this is what you will need next.
Replacing the larva will be easy:
- The key in the cylinder currently fixed in the door is turned 90 degrees;
- Using a steel ruler, knife or thin screwdriver, you need to press the locking tongue located opposite the slot in the body of the cylinder. You need to place a screwdriver between the rotating and stationary parts of the mechanism. Know that in the driver's door the slot is made from the bottom (looks “to the floor”), in the passenger doors - from the top!
- By pulling the key towards you, the larva is pulled out;
- The new cylinder is installed like this: with the key inserted, it is pushed into the lock until it stops. The locking tab will need to be pushed inward.
The following photo illustrates the “second step”.
Slot above the locking tongue
The slot itself, when the mechanism is assembled, is located between the drive and the lock body (at least that is how it is designed). You need to manage to squeeze a screwdriver into the space between these parts. Sometimes this action does not lead to a positive result, and then the lock has to be removed as an assembly.
