Replacing the stove tap on a VAZ 2107 with your own hands in your garage

VAZ 2107 heater valve injector: heater modification

In our country, driving a car with a faulty heater in winter is strictly not recommended. This rule is true for all cars, and the VAZ 2107 is no exception. The fact is that the heater of this car has never been reliable and has always caused car owners a lot of trouble. And the heater valve, which began to leak literally a year after buying the car, gained especially notoriety among owners of “Sevens”. Fortunately, you can replace this part yourself. Let's figure out how to do this.

How and when to change the valve of the VAZ 2105-07 stove

VAZ family cars have many components and mechanisms that are far from perfect and have low reliability. One of these is the stove tap. VAZ 2105–07 owners quite often face the need to replace this part due to coolant leaks or internal oxidation of the mechanism, which impairs its performance. Fortunately, the part is inexpensive and anyone can replace it in a garage.

PURPOSE AND PRINCIPLE OF OPERATION OF THE OVEN VALVE ON THE VAZ 2107

In short, the purpose of the stove tap is to give the driver the opportunity to switch between “summer” and “winter” modes of heating the interior. To understand what we are talking about, you need to understand how the heating system of the “seven” works.

Repair of the VAZ-2107 heater or why the “stove” does not heat?

The interior heating and engine cooling systems are interconnected. A radiator installed in the passenger compartment is connected to the small circuit of the cooling system. A tap is attached to its inlet, which shuts off the supply of hot antifreeze. The stove consists of several elements:

Heater radiator.
Electric fan.
Fan activation button.
Resistance block for adjusting the rotation speed.
Damper control levers.

If there were no heater valve, hot antifreeze would constantly circulate through the radiator. In this case, the temperature in the cabin would constantly be high.

But it is the tap that prevents hot liquid from entering the cabin. Using the controls located in the panel beard, the supply of hot antifreeze is turned on and off. The faucet is fixed directly to the radiator using two bolts. A rubber ring is installed between the valve body and the radiator.

The axis that drives the mechanism that shuts off the fluid supply has a small lever. A rigid cable is attached to it. Most drivers completely open the heater tap in the winter and close it in the summer. Consequently, for several months it is not touched at all. That's why it jams.

Why doesn't the VAZ-2107 stove heat up? And again the weather threatens with cold weather. For those who have problems with their heater, the most important question is how to make the “stove” heat up? First of all, let's determine the cause of the malfunction. The culprit may be an underheated engine, an airy cooling system, or a malfunction of the heater itself. If the stove fan does not spin, the electrical wiring is faulty - see here.

Signs: the temperature on the gauge is in the white zone, the engine takes a long time to warm up. Normal warming up at a temperature of -20 looks like this: start the engine, in 8-10 minutes at idle the engine should warm up to 40-50 degrees (the very beginning of the white sector of the temperature gauge scale). If the temperature rises higher, it’s good, less is bad.

Thermostat is faulty. Then we drive in 1-2 gear, and in 5-8 minutes the temperature rises to 80 (the border of the white and green zones). The thermostat did not warm up to 80 - the thermostat needs to be replaced! Temporarily, you can get by with insulating the radiator with cardboard or something else. But don’t forget that if you put a load on the engine (it’s stuck and slipping), it can boil. Therefore, the cardboard should be pulled out easily and quickly.

First of all, we check the antifreeze level in the expansion tank and the serviceability of the radiator cap. If the antifreeze is diluted with water, it’s bad, it will harden, it needs to be replaced. If the radiator cap is faulty, air will remain in the system, and this will lead to poor circulation and coldness in the cabin. We buy and install a new plug, add antifreeze and the deficiency disappears.

An air lock may remain even after repairing the cooling system. Remove the air by driving the car, preheated to 80 degrees. engine, uphill to raise the front end. Then, having removed the radiator cap, drive the engine at 2000 - 3000 rpm for several minutes. After the air comes out, all that remains is to add antifreeze and close the radiator cap.

Blue - controls air supply. Red - antifreeze supply tap. They must be open (all the way to the right). Sometimes the tap turns sour. Find it under the glove compartment and check - it should open all the way, you can help with your hand, simultaneously with the lever. Just work carefully, the parts are thin and fragile and can be broken. It is convenient to move the lever with your left hand and turn the tap with your right.

VAZ 2107 heater valve in the open position

Heater valve in closed position

We check the operation of the air damper with the fan turned on. The lever to the right from the stove blows strongly, to the left it blows much weaker. If there is no difference, it’s bad - the cable has come off, the stove will have to be removed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nzcL0zFqoJ4

The device of the heater (stove) VAZ-2107

The third lever controls the distribution of warm air between the windshield and side windows. The cable that leads to it (21) controls three dampers - (20) two of them open and close the air supply to the side windows. The third damper is not visible in the figure; it is located here (22) and can block the air outlet to the windshield.

Lever position: points to the right on the windshield, points to the left on the side windows. Why does it blow badly on the left side? 1. The fan at the stove is designed in such a way that it turns warm air to the right side, and the left side gets less. This is a design feature and is difficult to change. 2. The stove was disassembled and the air duct (4) or the left damper was damaged. 3.

Some craftsmen install an additional fan from a computer processor in the deflector (4) of the pipe. You can buy and install a fan on the dashboard with a connection to the cigarette lighter, direct it to the side window and set the speed to a lower speed.

We check the circulation like this: the engine is warmed up to 80, at idle we bring our hand to the outlet of the heater (near the driver’s right foot), give it gas and keep the speed at 2500. If you feel that the air has become noticeably warmer, you have poor circulation through the heater. Reasons: - clogged heater radiator, if the car is old and you poured “sealants”, mustard and other nasty things into the radiator;

at idle speed, with the engine barely warm (20-30 degrees), remove the upper rubber pipe at the outlet of the stove (under the hood) and place some dishes. The stream should be thick enough and even. A thin trickle, barely running - remove and check first the faucet, and then (if the faucet is in order) the radiator. You can try to rinse a clogged radiator with hot water (into the hole where the tube is), sometimes this helps.

cold air gets past it and it’s cold in the cabin. You will have to disassemble the stove and carefully seal everything. If you decide to disassemble the stove yourself, watch the video.

I’ll add a piece of advice on my own: remove the gearbox lever and you won’t have to disconnect the console (beard) wires. All the best to you and warmth to your salon!

COMMON FUEL VALVE FAULTS

All malfunctions of the fuel valve on the VAZ 2107 are in one way or another related to a violation of the tightness of this device. Let's list them:

The fuel valve started leaking. It’s impossible not to notice: a large puddle of antifreeze forms under the feet of the passenger sitting in the front seat, and a characteristic chemical smell spreads throughout the car’s interior. As a rule, a leak occurs due to the fact that the membrane in the fuel tap has become completely unusable. This is usually observed after two to three years of operation of the crane;
The fuel valve is stuck. It's simple: the diaphragm fuel valve mentioned above is susceptible to oxidation and corrosion. Almost all drivers in our country close this tap in the warm season. That is, at least three months a year the tap remains in the closed position. And these three months are quite enough for the rotary rod in the faucet to oxidize and become firmly “stuck” to the body of the device. Sometimes it is possible to turn such a rod only with the help of pliers;
antifreeze leaking from under the clamps. On some “sevens” (these are, as a rule, the latest models), the valve is attached to the pipes with steel clamps. These clamps weaken over time and begin to leak. And this is perhaps the most minor problem with the fuel tap that a car enthusiast may encounter. To solve it, simply tighten the leaking clamp with a flat screwdriver;
The faucet does not open or close completely. The problem is due to internal contamination of the device. It is no secret that the quality of antifreeze on the domestic market of fuels and lubricants leaves much to be desired. In addition, counterfeit coolant is also found (as a rule, antifreeze from well-known brands is counterfeited). If the driver is used to saving on antifreeze, then gradually the fuel tap becomes clogged with dirt and various chemical impurities, which are present in abundance in low-quality antifreeze. These impurities form hard lumps that do not allow the driver to turn the valve stem all the way and completely close (or open) it. In addition, low-quality antifreeze can cause rapid corrosion of the internal parts of the standard "seven" diaphragm valve, and this can also prevent the fuel valve from being tightly closed. The solution to the problem is obvious: firstly, remove and thoroughly rinse the clogged tap, and secondly, use only high-quality coolant.

VARIETIES OF FUEL TAPS

Since the fuel tap on the VAZ 2107 is an extremely short-lived device, after two years of operation of the tap the driver will inevitably face the question of replacing it. However, fuel taps vary in both reliability and design. Therefore, it is worth understanding them in more detail.

MEMBRANE TYPE VALVE

A membrane-type valve was installed on all “sevens” that ever came off the assembly line. It is very easy to find this crane for sale: it is available in almost every spare parts store. This part is inexpensive - only 300 rubles or so.

The membrane heating valve on the “seven” has never been reliable

But the car owner should not be tempted by the low cost of a membrane tap, since it is very unreliable. And literally in two or three years the driver will again see coolant leaks in the cabin. Therefore, you should set the diaphragm fuel valve to “seven” only in one case: if the car enthusiast has not found anything more suitable.

FUEL BALL VALVE

A ball fuel valve is a more acceptable option for installation on a VAZ 2107. Due to its design features, a ball valve is much more reliable than a diaphragm valve. The shut-off element in ball valves is a steel sphere with a small through hole in the middle. This sphere is attached to a long rod. And this entire structure is built into a steel body, equipped with two pipe threads. To open the tap, it is enough to turn its stem 90°.

The main element of the ball valve is the steel locking sphere

With all the advantages, the ball valve has one significant drawback, which makes many drivers refuse to buy it. The sphere in the tap is steel. And although faucet manufacturers claim that these spheres are made only of stainless steel, practice shows that in aggressive antifreeze they very easily oxidize and rust. Especially during the long summer downtime, when the tap is not opened for several months. But if the driver is forced to choose between a diaphragm valve and a ball valve, then, of course, he should choose a ball valve. The price of ball valves today starts from 600 rubles.

TAP WITH CERAMIC ELEMENT

The most reasonable solution when replacing the fuel tap on a VAZ 2107 would be to purchase a ceramic tap. Externally, this device is practically no different from a ball and diaphragm valve. The only difference is in the design of the locking element. It consists of a pair of flat, tightly fitted ceramic plates placed in a special sleeve. This sleeve has a hole for the rod.

Ceramic tap - the best option for the VAZ 2107

When the rod turns, the distance between the plates increases, opening the way for antifreeze. The advantages of a ceramic faucet are obvious: it is reliable and not subject to corrosion. The only drawback of this device is the price, which can hardly be called affordable and starts at 900 rubles. Despite the high price, the driver is strongly recommended to purchase a ceramic faucet. This will allow you to forget about antifreeze leaking into the cabin for a long time.

WATER TAP

Some drivers, tired of constant problems with the standard “Seven” fuel tap, solve the problem radically. They go not to the auto parts store, but to the plumbing store. And they buy an ordinary water tap there. Usually this is a Chinese ball valve for pipes with a diameter of 15 mm.

Some drivers install regular water taps on the VAZ 2107

Such a faucet costs 200 rubles maximum. After this, the standard diaphragm valve from the “seven” is removed, a hose is passed into the niche where it stood, and a fuel valve is attached to the hose (it is usually secured with steel clamps, purchased at the same plumbing store). This design lasts a surprisingly long time, and in case of corrosion and jamming, the procedure for replacing such a tap takes only 15 minutes. But this solution also has a drawback: the water tap cannot be opened from the cabin. Every time the driver wants to use the heater, he will have to stop the car and climb under the hood.

Speaking about water taps, I can’t help but recall one story that I personally witnessed. A driver I know installed a Chinese crane under his hood. But he categorically did not want to jump out into the cold every time to open it. He solved the problem in the following way: he slightly expanded the niche in which the standard faucet had previously been located using ordinary metal scissors. He drilled a hole on the handle that opens the water tap. He inserted a hook made from an ordinary long knitting needle into this hole. He brought the other end of the spoke into the salon (under the glove compartment). Now, in order to open the tap, he just had to pull the knitting needle. Of course, such a “technical solution” cannot be called elegant. However, the man still solved the main task - not to climb under the hood every time.

Replacement result

After replacing the heater tap, check its operation by turning on the fan, opening the air intake damper completely, and opening and closing the flow of coolant into the heater radiator. When the flow is blocked, the temperature of the discharge air should drop significantly.

If there was a leak from the faucet before the repair, wipe the inside of the windshield with an alcohol solution to remove deposits and dry the carpet.

Now you can fully regulate the climate in the cabin, and not worry about a coolant leak, at least for some time.

IMPORTANT NUANCES

There are a couple of important nuances that should not be forgotten when installing a new fuel tap. Here they are:

A new faucet always comes with several rubber gaskets. They must be installed without fail, even if it seems that the gaskets of the old faucet are practically not worn out and will still serve. The fact is that standard VAZ tires, from which old gaskets are made, last a year, or two at most. After this, microcracks appear in it, which are impossible to see with the naked eye. But gradually the network of cracks grows, and the tap begins to leak again. Therefore, installing new gaskets on the tap is mandatory;
The second point is related to the operation of the crane lever. Before closing the hood, be sure to check whether this lever works well. More precisely, whether the length of the cable is well adjusted, and whether this cable allows you to fully open and close the tap. It often happens that the old cable after installing a new tap turns out to be half a centimeter shorter, as a result of which the tap cannot close completely due to the tension of the cable. If such a picture is observed, you should remove the fastening tip, loosen the nut on it, and pull out a little cable from it (usually there is a reserve of a couple of centimeters in the tip). After this, the tip should be put back on the tap lever and check whether the tap closes tightly;
The third point is related to checking the tightness. Before closing the hood after installing the faucet, you should open the new faucet, then start the engine and let the car run for half an hour. During this time, the antifreeze will have time to heat up. If the tightness is broken somewhere, an antifreeze leak will occur, which will be difficult to miss. If no leaks are observed after running the engine for half an hour, the procedure for installing a new faucet can be considered complete.

So, even a novice car enthusiast can change the fuel tap on the “seven”. This does not require any special knowledge or skills. You just need to have a basic understanding of the design of the VAZ 2107 heating system and strictly follow the above recommendations.