Replacing silent blocks on a VAZ 2108

Removing the lever, replacing silent blocks

We remove the lever from the car to replace it, as well as to replace the silent blocks of the lever.
The work is shown on the right lever; the left lever is removed in the same way. Disconnect the ball joint from the lever (see “Removing the ball joint”). Unscrew the nut securing the brace to the front suspension arm and remove the washer (see “Removing the brace”). We unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the stabilizer bar to the lever and remove the bolt (see “Removing the stabilizer bar”). Using a 19mm socket, unscrew the nut of the bolt securing the lever to the body, holding the bolt with a wrench of the same size. When removing the right lever, it is not possible to completely remove the fastening bolt due to the small gap between the bolt and the wheel drive shaft. That's why…

...resting a powerful screwdriver or mounting blade against the body, press the drive shaft together with the shock absorber strut and fist... ...and use a soft metal drift to knock out and remove the bolt.

We remove the lever from the bracket...

...and take it out by removing it from the rear end of the stretcher. When removing the left suspension arm, there is no need to press down the wheel drive shaft.

To replace the silent block of the lever, we press it out in a vice with tool heads or pipe sections of a suitable size. We wet the new silent block with soapy water and press it into the lever.

We knock down the silent block of the extension with a chisel. Having removed the silent block on one side of the lever, we similarly dismantle the silent block on the other side.

We pre-press new silent blocks in a vice...

...and finally press it, striking a punch with a diameter of 8 mm through three windows in the rubber layer. Install the lever in reverse order. We tighten the threaded connections of rubber-metal hinges in the “vehicle on wheels” position. After installing the lever, it is necessary to check and, if necessary, adjust the wheel alignment at a special stand - at a service station.

How to change the silent blocks of the front control arms on a VAZ 2108?

1. Unscrew the nut of the guy wires.

2. Remove the old silent blocks using a chisel.

3. The new component should be pressed in.

1. The car must be driven into a pit or overpass. If there is engine protection, remove it. Then you need to unscrew the nuts of the screws that secure the front arms. Using a wrench, unscrew the screw nut that secures the front stabilizer link to the arm, after which you need to knock out the screw itself. The car should be placed on a jack and the wheel should be unscrewed.
2. Then, using a 24mm wrench, you need to remove the brace nuts. To make this easier, treat them with VD-40 and clean the threads with a brush. Next, you should unscrew the nut and dismantle the ball joint, which is also secured with screws. The lever is removed.
3. When the lever is dismantled, you can begin to replace the silent blocks of the extension, while the worn silent blocks must be removed, usually a chisel is required for this. The installation site is cleaned of corrosion. New elements are pressed one by one into the lever using a vice. The part is usually difficult to install, so you may have to use a sledgehammer or hammer. At the same stage, you need to pay attention to the condition of the ball joint - if it seems to you that it will not last long, then the best option would be to replace it.
4. The front arm component is then replaced. If it is completely broken, then it is necessary to get rid of its remains. Before installing a new silent block, it should be treated with soapy water or dishwashing detergent, after which the part is pressed in in the same way. The screw needs to be tightened slowly; if the element itself is slightly twisted, you need to correct it with a screwdriver.
5. Once the arm is installed, the nuts on all replaced parts should only be tightened when the vehicle is off the jack and on the wheels.

As you can see, the process of replacing parts is not particularly easy and can be done by a motorist who understands something about self-repair. If you are not sure that you can do it yourself, we recommend that you perform this task at a service station.

Lifehack: rear beam of a Priora car, main faults, replacement

Budget cars use a rear beam instead of an independent suspension; the Priora is mounted on a beam at the rear. This massive part is attached to the body on hinges. To make the car more stable, a rear beam stabilizer is provided. It is attached through the stabilizer bushings. There is also a front beam, it is attached to the body and holds the front suspension. These parts are powerful and massive, but even they can break. As the mileage progresses, the silent blocks of the front and rear beams will need to be replaced. The price of spare parts is from 3000 rubles and above. A new part on a Priora costs more than a tenth. But this is mainly marketing. Priora's spare parts are dozens more expensive, although many of the spare parts are the same. The silent block of the rear and front beams can be changed due to wear and due to accidental displacement - when the car gets into an accident, the beam shifts. Good drivers keep everything in their car safe and clean: this applies to the body, chassis, engine, and small details. It is worth periodically checking the suspension of the Lada Priora car - during trips, it experiences considerable load due to poor road surface. At the same time, attention is paid to small components and large ones such as the rear and front beam. All the suspension parts are actually attached to it, which allows the car to move, brake, and confidently overcome obstacles. It must be strong and “hardy” - that is, it must withstand many kilometers before the first malfunction appears. However, a part on a Priora sometimes has to be changed ahead of schedule.

The rear beam can be very damaged due to falling into a deep hole on the road surface, which can “overwhelm” the entire suspension while driving. An emergency situation can occur even after an unsuccessful accident. You can replace it yourself, just understand the complex process and prepare everything you need.

Basic faults

A beam can fail for two reasons:

1. displacement from place;
2. mechanical damage (most often a crack).

When a crack occurs in the lever, the torsional rigidity of the body decreases. This parameter determines the degree of safety, as well as the position of the parts. The fact is that with normal body rigidity, which is laid down during design and obtained after the final stage of car assembly, absolutely all components and assemblies (down to the bolts) are in place, they have a maximum permissible vibration amplitude. For example, the suspension “swallows” potholes - the parts actively move, and people in the cabin may not even notice the rolling.

If you increase the torsional rigidity of the body by adding lateral and longitudinal stability beams to the car, nothing bad will happen - the amplitude of vibrations will decrease, a pleasant plus will be the fact that the vehicle will become quieter, there will be less rattling. When the torsional rigidity of the body decreases, there may not even be any talk about comfort.

In addition to the fact that you will most likely have to get used to unpleasant sounds, there will be increased wear and tear on small parts. When a lever cracks, everything that is attached to it begins to move with greater amplitude. The problem is temporarily solved by welding, but this only postpones the solution to the problem for some time. Craftsmen recommend changing the beam.

Mechanical damage manifests itself in the connection of metal with rubber in the Priora levers - when wear reaches its climax, the rubber cracks and peels off. Because of this, a knock occurs in the front and rear suspension, and the car wobbles along the road.

Changing the front beam

For work, prepare two keys 17, 19, 24, WD-40 lubricant, and a ball joint remover. Removing and installing the front suspension arm in the following order:

1. Place the car over the inspection hole. You can install the front of the car on stable supports.
2. Secure the car with the handbrake.
3. Remove the wheels. To do this, moving in a circle, gradually loosen the bolts, and then smoothly pull the wheel towards you, accepting it.
4. Coat the threaded connections of the lever with WD-40.
5. While holding the bolt securing the stabilizer bar to the lever, do not allow it to turn. Smoothly unscrew the fastening nut and remove the bolt.
6. Holding the extension from turning with a wrench, unscrew the nut securing it to the beam.
7. Remove the washer gasket.
8. Unscrew the ball joint bolt and press the ball joint pin out of the beam.
9. While holding the spring washer bolt from turning with a wrench, remove the nut that secures the washer to the lever.
10. Smoothly remove the end of the lever from the body bracket.
11. Remove the beam from the brace.
12. Remove several washers from the guy and mark them so that when installing, put them in the same order.
13. Inspect the part for damage: as it wears, the rubber will bulge, crack, and possibly peel off from the metal.
14. If it is necessary to replace the silent blocks of the front beam of the Priora, unscrew the bolt securing the front silent block with a 18mm socket. The rear mounting bolts are unscrewed with a 15mm socket.
15. Remove the silent block, noting its seating depth. Place the new part in place of the old one in strict accordance with the marked depth.
16. Install a new lever. Place the washers in the marked order, with the same side in relation to the center of the part with which they were installed previously. Please note that the final tightening of the connections is carried out after the car is lowered to the ground.

Replacing the silent blocks of the front levers of Lada 2108 (VAZ 2108)

A decrease in driving comfort, as well as an uncharacteristic sound that appears when driving VAZ cars - 2108, 2109, 2114, 2115, Priora and Kalina, may indicate a failure of the front suspension silent blocks. A car with such a breakdown will not only “rumble”, but will also lose proper stability when driving. Sometimes drivers do not notice changes in the behavior of their “iron horse” and only learn about problems with the silent blocks of the levers when performing wheel alignment.

Any breakdown of your favorite car upsets its owner, but this malfunction cannot be called serious - it can be fixed on your own. True, for this you will need to “roll up your sleeves” and spend several hours on repairs. If you do not have the slightest locksmith skills or you simply do not have time, then it is better to give the faulty car into the hands of specialists who will quickly fix this simple malfunction. For motorists who are still hesitant and do not know whether they can fix this problem on their own, we suggest reading the following brief description of replacing silent blocks. We believe that after reading these recommendations, every motorist will be able to appreciate the possibility of repairing the car themselves.

So, to replace silent blocks you will need the following tools: socket and socket wrenches No. 17, No. 19, No. 24, a chisel, a hammer, a bench vice and a special device for pressing in new silent blocks (you can’t do without this device). To press in the “chamomile” (silent block of the brace) you will only need a vice and a hammer, but to correctly install the silent block of the lever you will need a special device consisting of an M12×170 bolt with a high nut and a bushing with a diameter of 38 mm. and 60mm long, as well as a thick and wide washer.

We recommend purchasing new silent blocks produced by Balakovo or SEVI. The products of these factories are reliable and of high quality, and their prices are very “democratic”.

After preparing all the necessary tools and purchasing the required spare parts, you can begin to independently replace the silent blocks of the front levers of VAZ family vehicles:

— The car must be placed in a repair pit. If engine compartment protection is installed, it must be removed. Next, you need to unscrew the nuts on the bolts securing the front arms. To do this, we recommend using wrench No. 17. Next, the mounting bolt is knocked out, the wheel bolts are loosened, and after jacking up the car, the wheel is removed;

- Next step. We use wrench No. 24, which has a “good” shoulder, and try to unscrew the nuts of the braces. To make this operation easier, we recommend that you first remove rust from the nuts and fill the joints with WD-40. After the nut “gives”, unscrew it completely and switch to the ball joint. It needs to be taken away from the steering knuckle. To do this, you only need to unscrew two bolts;

— We would like to note that sometimes it is very difficult to unscrew the tensioner nut. Each revolution is given with incredible effort. In such cases, it is easier to remove the entire lever with the crab and the extension. To do this, you just need to slightly loosen the extension nut, which is installed on the side of the crab, and unscrew the bolts securing the crab to the car body. Next, you can completely remove the entire assembly and, in a comfortable position, deal with the stubborn nut.

— This completes the dismantling process. Now you can start replacing the silent blocks of the extension. Faulty parts are removed using a chisel. Then the eyelet is thoroughly cleaned of any existing rust. The preparatory work has been completed. Next, we take new silent blocks and use a vice to press them into the lever. It has been noticed that the silent block does not shrink completely when clamped with a vice. Therefore, after partial landing, the lever is placed on a flat surface and the silent block is re-set with a sledgehammer or a powerful hammer. Just a few blows are enough to completely seat the silent blocks. Some motorists try to install a silent block without a vice, simply using a hammer, but this method is only suitable for confident “repairers”, since if the hammer hits the silent block inaccurately, the latter will become deformed and become unusable.

— Replacement of the front arm silent block. You must immediately remove the old part or what is left of it. If the old silent block is broken, then just remove the metal bushing and pry out the rubber part with a screwdriver. If the silent block is held firmly in the eye, then it can be removed using a prepared device. The new part must be lubricated with soap or any gel before installation. We also use a special device for installation. The bolt must be tightened carefully and without haste. If the edge of the part turns under, it must be straightened using a prepared screwdriver.

— After installing the silent blocks, you need to install the lever in its place. The nuts on the silent blocks are tightened only after the car is installed on the wheels.

Source

• https://autoremka.ru/advices/samostoyatelnaya-zamena-saylentblokov-perednih-povorotnyih-ryichagov-avtomobiley-vaz.html

Changing the rear beam, how to remove it

1. Replacing the rear beam on a Priora begins by raising the car using a lift, or you can raise the rear part by placing a jack under the lever. For work, prepare a pressing tool, wrenches 15, 19, 10 - the latter will be useful for unscrewing the brake pipe nuts.
2. Remove the wheel.
3. Remove the rear suspension shock absorbers.
4. Disconnect the parking brake cables from the equalizer and remove them.
5. Remove the cable sheaths from the bracket attached to the body. Take out the cables themselves and you will see the bolt securing the beam.
6. Disconnect the fasteners for the elastic lever of the pressure regulator drive from the bracket on the lever.
7. Remove the brake hoses one at a time, immediately closing the holes.
8. Remove the nuts securing the lever to the brackets. Before removing the lever, knock out the bolts.
9. When taking the lever with your partner, place it in a dry place. Despite the factory’s recommendations, it is recommended to leave the brackets on the body. After prolonged use, the bracket studs have become acidic and may break, so it is better to keep them in place.
10. Place a new part in place of the old one and assemble the suspension in the reverse order.
11. If you need to replace the silent blocks of the Priora rear beam, use a press out tool to remove the old parts, noting the depth of their installation, and put new ones in their place.
12. For a car, a torsion bar is installed directly from the factory. But for better stability of the rear suspension, you can additionally install a stabilizer - this increases the torsional rigidity of the body, creates a more “dense” pressure exerted in relation to the car parts, preventing them from becoming unnecessarily loose when moving.

The process of replacing front suspension daisies on a VAZ-2114

Before proceeding directly to the process of replacing daisies, it is necessary to disassemble the lever structure. We will not disassemble the structure of the entire suspension, but simply indicate the location of the silent blocks.

In the picture below, at number 23, there are daisies that need to be replaced.

Now that the location is clear, you can proceed directly to the process itself:

1. The first step is to dismantle the lower engine crankcase protection.
2. The next step is to clean the threads. In order for the bolts to unscrew normally, they must be sprayed with WD-40.
3. Using a 24mm socket, we dismantle the extension nut from the lever side.
4. Using a 17mm wrench, unscrew the extension bracket.
5. We dismantle the element.
6. Using a chisel, knock the silent block out of its seat. There is an alternative option - burning.
7. We press the new part with a hammer. Simply put, we hammer the chamomile into the seat.
8. We carry out the assembly in the reverse order.

Part selection

When the replacement process is considered, we proceed directly to the selection of the part. So, in addition to the original part, there are a number of substitutes that can be installed on a car.

Some manufacturers offer a part whose quality is much better than the standard factory spare part.

Original

2108-2904046 is the original catalog number of the silent block produced by AvtoVAZ. This part is of average quality, but is still recommended by the manufacturer for installation on a car. The average cost is 500 rubles.

In addition to the silent block itself, there are a number of consumables:

• 2108-2904045 — thrust washer for securing the silent block.
• 2108-2904225 — silent block adjusting washer.

These two parts can be included with the spare part, but as practice shows, they must be purchased separately.

Analogues of silent blocks

In addition to the original part, there is a list of analogues that can be installed on the VAZ-2114.

Let's consider which spare parts are suitable from which manufacturers:

Easy replacement of the front suspension arm silent block

When repairing the chassis of front-wheel drive cars of the VAZ family (Samara, Priora, Kalina, Grants), quite often there is a need to replace the silent blocks of the front suspension arms. And if there are usually no problems with replacing the rear hinge of the extension (chamomile), an ordinary hammer and chisel is enough. There are many difficulties with pressing out and pressing in the silent blocks of the lever.

The easiest way is to take the car to a service station, pay the money and not worry about it. But, if you are reading this material, then most likely you will be doing the replacement personally and you want to do everything cheaply, with high quality and without extra effort.

What kind of tricks are not used:

• buy new levers with already pressed silent blocks and daisies (a rather low-budget option);
• they take their removed levers to a service station, where they change the silent blocks with a press;
• grind/buy various pullers;
• They are trying to make a replacement using improvised means.

All options are working and you can use whichever one you consider the most problem-free in your situation. I’ll tell you about a way to replace the silent blocks of a lever without much expense or effort, but you’ll have to prepare a little.

So, in addition to the usual tools, we will need:

1. Old front wheel bearing from Samara, Priora, Kalina or Granta. If you have been repairing your car yourself for several years, then most likely you already have it lying around somewhere. If not, then you can ask your neighbors in the garage, friends, and finally, at any car service center. Its cost is close to zero, so it will be given to you without any problems at one service or another.
2. Long bolt with nut. Preferably hardened, it will last longer. 15 centimeters long, 12 mm in diameter. There should be as many threads as possible. For our purposes, you can take a cylinder head bolt, classic suspension bolts, or in general any suitable bolts.
3. A pair of thick washers with a central hole for our bolt, one with an outer diameter of at least 40 mm, the second with a diameter of up to 30 mm.
4. Silicone grease or soap solution (or dishwashing liquid).

A few words about signs of silent block failure

If you notice:

• Creaking of rubber when driving over uneven surfaces;
• Knocking while driving over uneven surfaces;
• Backlash in connections when checking the chassis;
• Deterioration or cracks in silent blocks;
• Uneven tire wear disrupts wheel alignment.

It is necessary to take immediate action and replace faulty silent blocks.

To work you will need:

1. New lower control arm silent blocks - rubber or polyurethane;
2. Set of keys, hammer;
3. Soap solution;
4. Liquid WD-40;
5. Lift or inspection hole;
6. A device for pressing out and pressing in silent blocks or, in extreme cases, a vice and tubes with washers of the appropriate diameter for pressing in silent blocks. If you don’t have either one or the other, you can make just such a “device” that works 100% and costs a penny. It consists of several washers, a piece of pipe and a long “12” bolt - see photo.

Pressing out the silent block

To press out the old silent block, you need to cut off the rubber side on one side. You can cut the rubber with a simple knife, or you can cut it down with a hacksaw. Then, through any suitable iron spacer, we simply knock the silent block out of the lever. You need to hit it hard, preferably with a sledgehammer, don’t be afraid, you won’t break anything. In the picture below there is already a knocked out silent block with a cut off side.

Instead of a sledgehammer, you can use a heavy-duty vice if you have one. You can burn the rubber with a blowtorch or gas torch. You can drill several holes in the rubber and then knock out the weakened silent block. All options are working, choose the one that is more convenient for you. But, as a rule, just knocking it out is faster and easier (necessarily with a cut side).

Next, we clean the hole for the silent block from rust using a round file or sandpaper and lubricate it with soapy water or silicone grease. I strongly do not recommend using anything else as a lubricant, such as lithol, solid oil, fiol, CV joint, etc. Since such lubricants negatively affect the condition of rubber products. Therefore, only silicone or soap solution.

At this point, the operations of pressing out and preparing the lever for installing a new silent block can be considered completed.

Pressing in the silent block

To press in the new silent block, we need the old wheel bearing, namely its inner race. It consists of two separate parts that have a large chamfer, with the help of which we will tuck the side of the silent block into the lever. This is what one inner half of the wheel bearing looks like.

Using a bolt with a nut, washers and the internal parts of the wheel bearing, we assemble such a sandwich.

We generously lubricate everything with silicone grease, coat the threads of the bolt and washer with lithol or something similar and begin tightening the nut (pressing in the silent block). We tighten it until the silent block is completely installed in its place, disassemble everything, and rejoice. If everything is done correctly, then replacement does not take much time and effort.

Do-it-yourself replacement of Priora silent blocks

When inspecting the car, I noticed cracks on the rubber bushings of the front suspension; the condition was unsatisfactory. The car has a relatively high mileage, so I decided to replace all the rubber joints and bushings in the suspension. And then came the agony of choice, as you always want to do better. The suspension on the Priora, in general, without significant changes, migrated from the VAZ 2108, which weighed noticeably less and had an engine 1.5 times weaker. I wanted to install stiffer bushings. In addition to the original ones, there are a huge number of silent blocks made of polyurethane from different manufacturers. Reviews about them are not always positive, and the price is much higher than rubber ones. In addition, I have the opportunity to compare the operation of identical mechanisms using rubber and polyurethane. Recently, roller bearings with polyurethane tires instead of rubber tires have been used in skip and cage hoisting of mines. As practice has shown, there is no significant increase in tire life; sometimes polyurethane simply breaks out in pieces. As a result, I didn’t want to experiment with my own money and bought all the products produced by Balakovorezinotekhnik.

I don't know about originality. Some of the rubber bands were in boxes with a hologram and the casting looks neater, the rest were simply sold in bulk.

As many car owners know, silent blocks have a direct impact on wheel alignment angles. Therefore, a beginner needs to understand how important it is to monitor the condition of these elements. Replacing the silent blocks of the front levers of a VAZ 2110 is quite simple, but today we will reveal some of the repair features to you.

When replacement is required

It will not be difficult for a more or less experienced driver to understand that the silent blocks are out of order and they need to be replaced. First of all, you will feel a certain discomfort while driving, you will hear the impact of iron in the suspension. But that's not all.

Determining the need to replace silent blocks is not difficult if you pay attention to the characteristic signs of their wear:

• While driving, strong or minor rubber squeaks are observed. It all depends on the degree of wear. Loud noise is a very bad sign;
• A noise similar to a knock is heard in the wheel area. This indicates that the silent blocks are poorly fixed and they are gradually destroyed;
• Cracks form on the surface of the elements, after which the process of disintegration of the silent block begins. In such a situation, it will be impossible not to hear a knock.

Replacing silent blocks

Silent blocks are installed in many places on the car's suspension - tie rods, shock absorbers, beams, levers, and so on. Their main purpose is to dampen vibration and shock that the suspension experiences during operation.

All suspension parts must be replaced along with silent blocks, but they wear out much faster than associated spare parts, so silent blocks have to be replaced quite often.

Externally, the silent block looks like two metal bushings inserted into one another, between which there is a layer of rubber or polyurethane. In some cases, the outer or inner bushing may be missing - this depends on the installation location and the specific intent of the designers who developed the part.

The service life of a silent block directly depends on the loads experienced by the car’s suspension, the part in which it is installed and its quality. You can determine the level of wear of the silent block visually - if the rubber or polyurethane filler has dried out or cracks have appeared on it, it should be changed immediately.

In addition, you need to change the silent blocks in pairs. For example, if the silent block of the left front lever is replaced, then at the same time you need to change the silent block of the right front lever. In addition, you need to change all the silent blocks that are installed on a particular part at once. Otherwise, the suspension will work unevenly, which will lead to premature wear of parts.

In order to replace the silent block, it is best to use a special puller - it smoothly presses it out of the part holder. If you knock out the silent block, the part experiences unnecessary mechanical stress, which can negatively affect it, especially in welding areas.

After the old silent block is removed, the inner surface of the holder and the pin (or bolt) on which the silent block was placed must be cleaned of dirt and lubricated with a thin layer of lubricant or engine oil.

Recently, polyurethane silent blocks have been gaining popularity. They have a longer service life, but are much more expensive than rubber ones. It only makes sense to buy them if the associated parts are in good condition and will last a long time.

Buying cheap, and therefore low-quality silent blocks can lead to damage to suspension parts. The filler may turn out to be too soft or, conversely, too hard, which will not only greatly reduce the service life of the silent block, but also increase the load on the chassis parts.

Replacement of silent blocks of front levers of VAZ 2110

Some car owners are afraid to replace the silent blocks of the front beam on a VAZ 2110 on their own. But in vain. Contacting a service station entails serious financial costs. Plus, it’s far from a fact that the service station will do your job better than you would have done yourself.

Zapisovka

The only thing is that you may need the help of a car service friend. All service stations have a special puller in their tool arsenal. There is no point in purchasing it, since it is expensive and is rarely needed by a car owner. Some craftsmen even make their own puller using a homemade method. There are many drawings and diagrams according to which it is made. So you can try it if you have free time.

There are two silent blocks in the front beam - in the front upper and front lower arm . The procedure for replacing them is somewhat different from each other, so we will consider the processes separately.

Front upper control arm silent block

Broken
Let us immediately note that it is easier to work with it than with the second element. The entire procedure involves performing several sequential operations.

1. Raise the car on a jack and secure it in a stationary position. Turn on the handbrake, put stoppers under the wheels.
2. Remove the front wheel.
3. Unscrew and remove the support. To do this, you will need to turn the wheel out and hit the bipod with a hammer. It is better to do this through some kind of insert.
4. By knocking out the support, you can remove the upper front control arm without serious problems.
5. There is a bolt on the side, it is quite long. Unscrew it. Inspect the end play. Most likely, it is quite serious and is easily felt when checking. Therefore, you absolutely correctly decided to change the silent blocks.
6. You can remove the silent block with a hammer and chisel. Just don't hit it too hard, or you'll damage other suspension components.
7. In some cases, the silent block sits very firmly, so you can’t do without a drill and drilling it. After making the holes, you can safely remove the element.
8. Now use the smaller bushing to press the new silent block into place. The part must fit firmly and securely into the socket.

Replacing front suspension silent blocks on a VAZ 2110

Inexperienced car owners are tormented by doubts about the need to change parts themselves. Of course, this can be explained by a lack of skill. However, as experience shows, work carried out at a service station does not guarantee a high-quality result. In addition, this will entail quite noticeable financial costs. Therefore, it makes sense to try to replace the silent blocks on a VAZ 2110 yourself, using the help of numerous videos and more experienced comrades.

Replacing the silent blocks of the front levers of a VAZ 2110 with your own hands is done using a set of simple tools. But it is worth remembering that there are two similar elements on the front beam, the sequence of changing which is slightly different.

Replacing the upper silent block

To change you need to do the following:

Raise the car using a jack or lift. In the first case, there is a need for rigid fixation, so you need to turn on the handbrake and ensure that the wheels do not move. Remove the wheel and also unscrew and dismantle the support. Most likely, there will be problems with unhindered extraction, so to speed up the process, you can lightly hit the bipod with a hammer, preferably through a soft insert or fabric. After this, you can easily dismantle the upper arm. There is a bolt on it that needs to be unscrewed and removed. Next, the silent block itself is dismantled

It can be done using a hammer and chisel, with extreme precision and care so as not to damage other parts. In particularly difficult cases, you can drill it out using a drill. Coat the new silent block with sealant and install it in the socket

In this case, you can use the old silent block to create a soft layer that will help maintain the integrity of the new part during installation.

Axial play can be eliminated either by completely replacing the post, or by tightening additional washers on both sides. The first method - replacing the front struts on a VAZ 2110 - can even be done with your own hands, but this often does not help due to the low quality of the parts and their high cost. When using the second option, it is possible to reduce the space for the silent block. This will require manual reduction, which will shorten the service life. Each method has its drawbacks; when choosing, you need to focus on the degree of wear.

Replacing the lower silent block

The procedure is a little more complicated than the previous one, but it will also be feasible for the car owner.

1. Remove the stabilizer struts - this will ensure the mobility of the lever.
2. Unscrew all retaining nuts and remove them.
3. Remove the lower silent blocks and install new ones in the same sequence as the upper ones.
4. A feature of the replacement is the need to carry out work with a loaded vehicle. Otherwise, the installation will not proceed correctly, and the parts will soon have to be changed again.

As it becomes clear even from the description of the process, replacing the front silent blocks of a VAZ 2110 with your own hands will take quite a bit of time and will be quite feasible. If you lack the desire or technical capabilities, it makes sense to contact a service station. When choosing it, you need to be confident in the quality of the work being carried out, since the silent block is one of the most important parts that ensures high-quality vehicle control and the safety of all passengers and the driver.

The suspension of the VAZ-2110 car bears a significant load, because it dampens the oscillatory movements caused by the wheels as a result of contact with the road surface. Therefore, the structural elements of the suspension are not connected too rigidly by means of special bushings - silent blocks. Using these elements, the brace, lever and stabilizer are connected

An equally important function of silent blocks is their influence on the angles of the front wheels. Considering the importance of salen blocks, the car owner needs to monitor their condition