How to remove and replace the starter on a VAZ-2112 16 valves

If the starter on a VAZ 2110 or its solenoid relay malfunctions, it must be removed from the car for diagnostics or complete replacement. In most cases, the cause of device failure is the failure of the retractor, but there are cases when the starter itself is the culprit. If you need to remove it from the car, then you will need:

1. Open-end wrench 13
2. Head with knob
3. Socket head 13

The layout of the VAZ 2110 engine is such that before proceeding with the removal procedure, it will be necessary to remove the air filter housing to gain access to the starter.

Shown above is its location when the air filter housing is removed. Now you need to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, as well as the starter power wires. One of which must be unscrewed with a 13 key, having first bent the rubber protective cap:

And the second one can be easily removed, just pull it to the side:

Next, you can begin to unscrew the starter mounting nuts. Depending on the model of the device that is installed on your VAZ 2110, it can be secured with either two or three studs. In this case, the starter is secured using two studs, the nuts of which must be unscrewed:

After you have completed this task, you can carefully move the starter to the side:

And finally we take it up, the result of which is shown in the photo below:

If necessary, we buy a new starter, the price of which for a VAZ 2110 ranges from 2000 to 3000 rubles, depending on the manufacturer and type: gearbox or regular. Of course, the ideal option is a gearbox, since it turns the engine at a higher speed and starts much more confidently.

Replacing the starter on a VAZ 2110, VAZ 2111, VAZ 2112

Welcome! Starter - there are many important electronic things in a car, but the starter and generator are the most important and therefore they need to be looked after and not allowed to wear out, for example, if you want to kill the generator very quickly, then it will be enough to remove the minus terminal from the battery and wait for the moment until the diode bridge fails, with the starter everything is also simple, it will be enough to turn it (There are cases when the engine does not start) until it fails (In general, you should not turn the starter for a long time, 10 seconds without stops are already long for him, so keep breaks of 30 seconds if the car does not want to start for more than 10 seconds) and you can go buy a new one and what is most important is that without a starter it is very, very inconvenient (You will have to constantly push the car), and without a generator, you won’t even be able to go anywhere (or rather, you can, until the battery completely runs out and the car stalls as a result), so be careful with these things and don’t put too much load on them, which can damage them.

Note! To replace the starter with a new one, you will need to take from the tools: A set of wrenches and gloves (We recommend working with gloves, because the distance is small and it’s easy to skin your hands) and also an inspection hole would be useful, or just hang the front part of the car and remove the wheel , because the starter is located at the very bottom and you can’t reach its bottom bolt from above!

Summary:

Where is the starter located? If you look from the top of the car, it will be a little difficult to see it, because some details will interfere with seeing it, but still, if you look at it from a certain angle, then everything is clearly visible, for clarity, in the photo below, the starter is indicated by a red arrow .

When should you replace the starter? Any part wears out from time to time, the same thing happens with the starter, but most often one problem happens to it, it starts to click (When you turn the key to start the car), because of these clicks the car does not start and from time to time the starter may then grab, then click, in addition, another reason that indicates that the starter has become unusable is its weak rotation, that is, you turned the key, it began to turn and turns very weakly, and therefore the car does not start properly and you have to wait for a long time until the engine starts (in this case, also check the battery, it may be discharged), in addition to these faults, there are others, such as turning on the starter repeatedly and turning it off, or when you turn the key and you can hear the sound of the starter, but it spins at idle or when you turn on the starter, you hear an unusual noise (crackling or as if the starter’s armature is touching something and similar noises that you will immediately understand).

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general information

VAZ 2112 starter removal

As mentioned above, the starter provides current support due to permanent magnets. Producing a power of 1.55 kW, this element provides the starting frequency that is so necessary for the cylinders of the car’s power unit. Different motor types have different frequencies, but there is an average starting frequency. It is equal to 40-50 revolutions per minute, if we mean the operation of a gasoline engine, which is the VAZ 2112 engine.

Note. As a comparative example, diesel engines will require the starter to rev at 100-200 RPM.

Consists of the following components:

• Permanent magnets in the amount of 4 pieces. They are mounted inside the starter and perform one of the important missions.
• An anchor that rotates the flywheel, and with it the crankshaft of the car engine.
• Brush unit with 4 brushes. Two of the brushes are called positive, two are called negative. The brush assembly is designed to provide electrical connection.

Note. This assembly has been proven to be one of the least reliable parts of the starter. It is the brushes that are the first to be questioned when the stator is performing poorly and are subject to testing, followed by replacement.

• The planetary gearbox is the next component. It is also the most important element, as it is responsible for transmitting torque to the drive shaft. The gearbox itself consists of several gears that reliably perform their functions.
• A drive that is designed to insert the stator gear into connection with the engine flywheel. The mechanism of this drive is located on the armature shaft.
• Covers, front and back, which are cast mainly from aluminum, or rather from its alloy. The front cover is needed to mount the relay, which is connected to the drive through a plastic lever and ring. Brush holders are located on the back cover.
• Solenoid relay, also called traction relay. Thanks to this component, the drive gear meshes with the ring gear. As soon as the driver turns the key, voltage will not flow anywhere, but to the windings (holding/retracting) of this relay. As soon as the contact relay closes, the pull-in winding is switched off.

Note. It will be useful to know that 8V is the normal voltage of the traction relay, of course, if the ambient temperature is average. It is by this parameter that electricians determine the malfunction of this relay.

It is generally accepted that the VAZ 2112 starter has both its advantages and disadvantages:

• Light weight and small dimensions, making it compact, are among the obvious advantages of this element.
• On the other hand, this is the most loaded part in the entire car system, because being small in size, it must spin the heavy flywheel of a strong car engine. In addition, the starter is also responsible for rotating the crankshaft along with connecting rods and pistons. Because of this drawback, the starter cannot serve for a long time and after a certain time (usually 5-6 years) fails.

Briefly, you can imagine the work of the starter. Through the ignition switch, power is supplied to the relay windings. The windings create an E.M.F. that is transmitted to the relay core. This, in turn, closes the power contacts, transferring power to the stator motor. At the same time, the relay influences the drive, which, with its gear, engages with the engine flywheel.

Note. To prevent reverse transmission of torque, the overrunning clutch disengages the rollers as soon as the machine's engine starts.

How to replace the starter on a VAZ 2110-VAZ 2112?

Note! The first and most important rule when working with electricians is to disconnect the battery so that it does not supply current, this is done by removing the minus terminal from the battery; how to do this in more detail, read the article: “Replacing the battery in a car,” point 1!

Removal: 1) First, drive the car into a viewing hole, overpass, or lift the front part very high with a good jack (it will be enough to lift only one side, two at once are not necessary) and remove the wheel from the car, after the operation, remove the boot or if If you have a crankcase protection installed, then remove it too, because it will prevent access to the starter, immediately after which, by the way, in the engine compartment or under the car (Whichever is more convenient for you), unscrew the top nut securing the starter (see large photo) and also unscrew the nut that attaches the terminal to the solenoid relay (see small photo) and remove this terminal so that it does not interfere (Next to this terminal there will be another wire that is attached to the starter, you will also disconnect it).

2) And finally, unscrew the nut that secures the starter from below (see photo 1) and after that, carefully pull it out of the clutch housing and put it on the ground or put it where you need it, if you suddenly decide to check the starter for serviceability, we’ll give you a couple of tips on how this is done, first use a flat screwdriver to move the coupling back and forth along the shaft and make sure that it moves easily and does not jam anywhere (see photo 2), then twist the gear with the same screwdriver or with your finger (see photo 3), it it should also spin easily and spin only in one direction, it should, if it spins both clockwise and counterclockwise, then the starter will have to be disassembled and repaired, in addition to this, you can also check the solenoid relay, which sometimes clicks and the starter does not engage, to do this, pull two wires so that they have crocodile clips at both ends (it will be easier this way, you can also run clean bare wires), so place the red wire on the plus terminal of the battery and its other end on the control terminal (a wire is also attached to this terminal) of the solenoid relay , as for the black wire, then throw one end to the minus on the battery, and connect the other end to the starter housing as it is all shown in figure number 4, after this operation you will hear a click and the clutch will come forward, when you remove the wires it will be the same again the same click and the clutch will run back, well, the final check is to disconnect this very wire from the control terminal of the traction relay and connect all the wires with the alligator clips in the same way, but only with this wire removed and when the voltage goes back, the armature at the starter should rotate with frequency of more than 5000 min, if this is the case, then the starter is fully operational and by the way, do not hold the wires that come from the battery and that you connected to the starter for more than 10 seconds, otherwise problems may begin with the starter.

Installation: Installation of a new starter occurs in the reverse order of removal; if you do not want to completely change the starter, but you want to overhaul it, then study the article entitled: “Repairing a starter on a car.”

Additional video clip: You can see the process of replacing an element such as a starter in the video located just below, but it shows how to remove the starter from the top without crawling under the car, the article describes a slightly different method, which way you will go, it’s up to you to decide just for you, by the way, in addition to the replacement, this video also describes the test for the functionality of the starter in detail, although the entire operation is performed on a VAZ 2114 car, there are practically no differences from the tenth family.

Required Tools

In order to carry out repairs yourself and replace the starter on a VAZ 2112, you need the tools from the table below.

Table - Tools required to replace the front strut

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The process of replacing the starter on a VAZ-2112

Old and new starter

We will need the new starter itself, keys “13” and “15”; we can also use heads and ratchets for convenience.

First of all, remove the negative terminal on the battery (this is necessary for safety, to avoid a short circuit).

Unscrew the starter fasteners

Installing the starter is done in the reverse order, but for simplicity, here is a small and clear diagram of the connection to the starter relay:

Connection diagram of the starter to the car relay

Or according to this scheme:

More details here

What is a starter for?

Let's introduce a little theory about the ignition system and the starter itself.

The ignition system is necessary to start the engine; the starter itself is designed to create a powerful current (by passing, so to speak, through the starter winding). This is done so that this energy turns the flywheel half a turn.

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Main starter components:

You can see more details in the picture.

1. Front cover with plain bearing.
2. Bendix (engagement drive).
3. Planetary reductor.
4. Rotor with collector.
5. Housing with stator.
6. Solenoid relay.
7. Brush unit.
8. The back cover has a plain bearing. You can see more details in the picture.

Reasons why it is necessary to replace the starter

1. The solenoid relay armature is broken.
2. Broken wiring.
3. Short circuit to negative.

Most of these reasons can be diagnosed if you try to start the engine by closing the contacts on the starter.

Basic faults

The starter has several basic faults that occur quite often.

• Battery;
• Solenoid relay;
• Brushes;
• Bendix;
• Rotor and stator windings;

battery

If the starter does not rotate or clicks appear when you turn the ignition key, then the battery is most likely discharged. If the battery is charged, you should check the condition of the marks on it. Poor contact or oxide on the stamps will interfere with starting the car, since the starter requires a large current to rotate the engine, and weakening the contact of the stamps or their oxidation will increase the resistance, which will make it impossible to start the internal combustion engine.

Retractor

If, when you turn the key, the starter rotates but does not start the engine, then the culprit is most likely the solenoid relay. The main culprit for relay failure is a break in its winding.

Brushes

Brushes are the most common starter element that fails. If they wear out, starting the engine is impossible, since they do not provide contact with the rotor commutator. When the brushes are worn down to 4 mm, they must be replaced.

Bendix

The Bendix is ​​a type of overrunning clutch that engages the gears with the flywheel. Its failure is a mechanical failure of the starter. It is impossible to repair it, just replace it with a new one.

Windings

The winding fails due to increased currents generated when the engine starts in cold weather or when the bendix jams. The wire wound on laminated steel simply cannot withstand such current surges and breaks. This can be solved by replacing the rotor or stator, and best of all the starter.

Removing and installing a starter on a VAZ 2110 car

The article describes a detailed step-by-step procedure with photo accompaniment for removing and installing the starter with its own rocks on a VAZ car.

If your car has problems starting, or the starter turns off on its own (the car stalls), or there is an incomprehensible sound (noise) when starting, then these are signs of a starter malfunction.

In this case, it is necessary to repair the starter or completely replace it with a new one. If there are minor consequences, then you can repair it yourself, although by opening it, you can always find and replace internal faulty or damaged parts, which will significantly reduce waste if you buy a new one. It is also not as difficult as it seems at first glance.

In any of these cases, you will still have to remove it and reinstall it. We removed the starter on a VAZ 2110; the procedure is similar on other models.

Causes of failure

A starter is a unit that is used to start the engine. Essentially, this is an electric motor that rotates the engine flywheel through a clutch until the flammable liquid ignites and the engine starts.

There can be many reasons for replacing or repairing the starter:

• a grinding noise in the engine compartment when turning the ignition key to start (bendix malfunction or flywheel wear);
• clicks when turning the key (retractor relay);
• The engine is difficult to turn (rotor brushes are worn out).

Starter VAZ 2110
These are the main reasons; an electrician will tell you in more detail during disassembly and diagnostics. Basically, it can be repaired, but if reasons such as replacing the armature arise, then it is advisable to replace the entire starter assembly, but the problem arises: how to remove the starter on a VAZ 2110?

Many motorists have encountered situations where the starter in a car does not turn. You can read about possible reasons in the following article: https://vazweb.ru/desyatka/elektrooborudovanie/ne-krutit-starter.html

Instructions for removing and installing the starter:

1. First of all, disconnect the wire from the battery at the “–” terminal.

2. Dismantle the crankcase on the engine.

3. Next, from the top of the engine compartment you need to unscrew one nut that holds the starter mount.

4. The wire must be disconnected from the traction relay terminal at the bottom of the machine.

5. Unscrew one nut from the contact bolt of the traction relay and disconnect the wire.

6. The starter is secured from below with one nut, which should also be unscrewed.

7. Now calmly remove it and do the repairs. A new or repaired starter should be installed in the same way as it was removed, only in the reverse order.

Recommendations for “extending the life” of the trigger mechanism

Above, we studied the structure of the electric motor and the starting relay, and also answered the question of how to remove the starter on a VAZ 2110 with your own hands. Let's add to all this a number of recommendations for careful handling of this element - this will reduce the likelihood of part failure:

• Never spin the engine for more than 7-8 seconds.
• Wait at least 1 minute between attempts to start the engine.
• Always depress the clutch before starting - this will eliminate additional stress in the form of the clutch and the transmission input shaft.
• Fill the engine with engine oil appropriate for the season of operation - thick oil greatly increases the load on the starting mechanism.

If signs of a malfunction nevertheless appear, the first thing to do is stop trying to start the engine and figure out the cause, otherwise there is a high probability of complete failure of the mechanism. In such a case, it is better to spend time starting the car “from the pusher”.

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Lada 2110 PhiX › Logbook › Repair and replacement of VAZ 2110 starter

Hi all. Recently the starter has started to work poorly. Sometimes it didn’t work the first time, the retractor shoots, but the starter doesn’t turn. Sometimes it would turn with a crunch.

I decided that it was the Bendix, but it turned out that it was not the problem, it was perfect.

To begin with, I sentenced the retractor. Although it worked, the contact of the supply pin was burnt. The pin got so hot that it melted the attachment point. It is clear that this is most likely not a cause, but a consequence.

Further disassembly of the starter revealed a broken planetary gear. It is plastic, burst and crumbled. Now it’s clear why the starter jammed.

The cost of a new metal gear is 150 rubles. The cost of the assembled gearbox is 750 rubles. There is no point in taking it as a collection, because... All other parts of the gearbox are in excellent condition. I also purchased a tool to remove the retaining ring for RUR 170

I assembled the gearbox with a new metal gear. Lubricated it with CV joint.

I put the starter in place, and a miracle happened: the car started up normally.

But it was too early to rejoice; after driving for a couple of days, the problem partially returned. The starter sometimes jammed and in general began to turn noticeably slower. I had to take it off again. This time, I was not lazy and disassembled it completely. It turned out that the magnets had fallen apart.

Most likely, this happened as a result of the starter jamming on an old, broken gear and its subsequent overheating.

As a result, I didn’t bother with further repairs and bought a new, factory, KZATE gear starter for 3200 rubles.

Now it starts just fabulous. The new starter spins like a hurricane. I should have not been too lazy right away and disassembled the starter completely, it would have saved money and time. But there is also a plus: I gained interesting experience in repairing gear starters.

Original parts and their analogues: which is better

Despite the fact that this vehicle model ceased production more than 10 years ago, it is not difficult to purchase original starters made by AvtoVAZ. Moreover, their quality is not always higher than their analogues. Original part:

There are many analogues on sale from a variety of manufacturers. The cost fluctuates quite significantly. The following manufacturers have proven themselves to be good:

Bosch starters have proven themselves to be good. This manufacturer carries out quality control. There is no chance of purchasing a product that does not work. It should also be noted that different manufacturers may produce parts of different sizes.

For example, the Bosch starter is slightly larger than the KEHO starter. The price of the part will vary significantly depending on the manufacturer. The difference between the dimensions can be seen in the photo. Larger parts will be difficult to install.