Replacing the oil pump without removing the engine

Location, principle of operation and design of the pump

The standard VAZ 2106 oil pump, the price of which is quite reasonable, is a product with a gear pair and a shaft installed in the internal cavity of the crankcase pan. This device is held on the cylinder block by 2 fasteners. The drive type gear is rigidly mounted on the shaft, and the driven element, pressed into the body of the product, rotates on the console in free mode.

An oil receiver pipe with a filter mesh and a pressure-reducing valve built into the part is attached to the pump body. An automobile oil pump operates on the following principle: it sucks in engine lubricant and directs it through an oil line running inside the wall of the cylinder block to the oil purification filter. At the exit from the cleaning filter, the aggregate oil spreads further through the main channels and is supplied to lubricate the main and 2 bearings of the vehicle oil pump drive shaft installed on its axle.

It is necessary to install only parts on the “six” that, according to the nomenclature code, correspond to the catalog numbers of the products installed on the vehicle. Thus, the VAZ 2106 oil pump differs from the same products that are mounted on other versions of Volzhsky Automobile Plant cars. They differ from similar parts, for example, in the geometry of the oil intake device, which is adapted to the configuration of the oil pan.

When comparing the design of the VAZ oil pump of the sixth series with analogues for other versions of the VAZ, you can see differences in the linear dimensions of the shaft with splines and gear. If it is necessary to replace the pump due to the mileage between operations, or due to a sharp drop in engine lubricant pressure, then you need to select parts with the designation 2101.

Main malfunctions of the lubrication system

External signs of a malfunction in the lubrication system are low or high oil pressure in the system and deterioration in oil quality due to contamination.

A decrease in pressure is possible as a result of insufficient oil level, dilution, leakage through leaks in connections, contamination of the oil receiver strainer, wear of oil pump parts, sticking of the pressure reducing valve in the open position and due to wear of the crankshaft and camshaft bearings.

The oil level should be checked on a warm engine, but not immediately after stopping it, but after 3-5 minutes so that the oil has time to drain. If the level is below normal, it is necessary to add oil to the oil pan, having first identified and eliminated the cause. An external inspection reveals oil leaks from under the camshaft drive cover, valve mechanism cover, cylinder block, oil filter, as well as from the filler plug, through the oil pressure sensor fitting, from under the oil separator cover of the crankcase ventilation system and through the oil dipstick seal. The oil level may drop due to wear of the valve stem seals, wear and coking of the piston rings or their breakage, wear of the pistons and their grooves, wear of the engine cylinders, wear of the valve stems and their guides, as well as coking of the oil ring slots or filling them with oil deposits. These malfunctions lead to increased oil consumption and, accordingly, a drop in pressure in the system.

An increase in pressure in the lubrication system is possible due to the use of oil with high viscosity, sticking of the pressure relief valve in the closed position and clogging of the oil lines.

Since the crankshaft rotates, under the influence of centrifugal forces, engine wear products are deposited on the walls of its oil channels. Over time, the flow area of these channels decreases so much that the connecting rod bearing begins to experience oil starvation. Increased contamination of the channels is facilitated by the use of low-quality or inappropriate engine oil, regular engine operation in intensive modes, and untimely oil changes.

The oil supply channels to hydraulic compensators can also become coked over time, and then the hydraulic compensator stops working. If it gets stuck when the valve is open, it will cause the piston to knock out the valve. In this case, the hydraulic compensator itself is destroyed and damage to the camshaft, pistons, connecting rods and the appearance of cracks in the cylinder head are possible. Oil problems are also likely with hydraulic tensioners that provide tension on camshaft drive belts and chains. Their channels also become clogged, which can cause timing failure and destruction of the cylinder head. If there is a mechanism for changing the valve timing in the timing belt, dirt can cause a failure or disruption of its operation.

When operating a vehicle, there may be cases where the oil pressure gauge may be faulty. To check the correct operation of the pressure indicator, instead of the sensor, screw in the fitting of the control pressure gauge and, by comparing the readings with the device being tested, judge its operation.

Removing and installing the oil pump

The oil pump is removed for replacement when its supply decreases, causing a constant drop in oil pressure in the engine lubrication system, as well as when oil leaks through the sealing surfaces of the pump housing and cylinder block.

Spare parts only supply the pump assembly, so this section only covers pump removal and installation. The work is shown using the example of the A16 XER engine; on other engines the pump is removed using almost similar techniques.

Repairing an oil pump requires a set of new spare parts, which are not available separately at retail. Therefore, if the pump fails, replace it as an assembly or contact a specialized service for repair.

You will need: all the tools necessary to remove the accessory drive belts and timing gear, the right power unit suspension mount, as well as a TORX T30 wrench and a TORX E12 socket.

1. Disconnect the wire from the negative terminal of the battery.

2. Drain the cooling system (see Replacing the coolant).

3. Remove the accessory drive belt (see Replacing the accessory drive belt).

4. Remove the right power unit suspension mount...

5. ...and the bracket for attaching it to the engine (see Replacing the power unit suspension mounts).

6. Remove the crankshaft pulley...

7. ... auxiliary drive belt tension roller...

8. ...and the lower timing cover (see Replacing the timing belt).

9. Remove the intermediate roller of the timing belt by unscrewing the bolt securing it...

10. ...timing belt...

WARNING

After removing the timing belt, do not rotate the crankshaft and camshafts, as the pistons may damage the valves.

11. ...and the tension roller of the timing belt by unscrewing the bolt securing it (see Replacing the timing belt).

12. Remove the timing pulley from the crankshaft shank.

13. Remove the two bolts securing the water distribution pipe to the water pump.

NOTE

For clarity, the catcollector has been removed.

WARNING

The flange of the water distribution pipe is sealed with a rubber ring. Replace this ring every time the connection is disassembled.

14. Remove the three bolts securing the oil sump to the oil pump...

15. ...nine bolts securing the oil pump to the engine cylinder block...

NOTES

Please note: the oil pump mounting bolts vary in length (bolts A are short, bolts B are long). For clarity, shown with the engine removed

16. ...and remove the oil pump assembly with the water pump.

NOTE

For clarity, shown with the engine removed.

17. Remove the sealing gasket installed under the oil pump housing flange.

NOTE

Replace the oil pump gasket with a new one each time you disassemble the connection, since the old gasket may not ensure a tight connection when reinstalled.

HELPFUL ADVICE

Whenever you remove the pump, replace the crankshaft front oil seal (see Replacing Crankshaft Oil Seals).

18. Install the pump in the reverse order of removal and tighten its mounting bolts evenly crosswise to a torque of 20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m).

19. Install all previously removed parts and fill with coolant (see Replacing the coolant).

HELPFUL ADVICE

When installing a new oil pump, we recommend replacing the oil filter element.

Car design for dummies

The main malfunctions of the lubrication system are:

high or low oil pressure,
oil leakage through leaky connections,
clogging of fine and coarse filters,
violation of the tightness of the crankshaft oil seals,
malfunction of the crankcase ventilation system.

The causes of malfunctions in the engine lubrication system and methods for repairing them are very diverse. It should be borne in mind that the normal operation of the lubrication system determines the durability of the engine as a whole. Even a short-term disruption of the uninterrupted supply of oil to rubbing surfaces inevitably leads to serious damage.

Oil pressure is monitored using an oil pressure gauge. New cars, in addition to the pressure gauge, also have a warning light that lights up when the pressure in the system drops below the permissible limit.

Increased oil pressure in the system can be caused by high oil viscosity. Despite a number of positive aspects, increased oil viscosity also has a negative effect on engine operation, because mechanical losses increase, that is, the wear rate of parts increases, fuel consumption increases and the effective engine power decreases.

Thus, the lubrication system must be filled with oil of a certain viscosity recommended by the manufacturer. As an exception, for engines with an increased degree of wear of the crankshaft bearings, the use of oil of higher viscosity is allowed. Viscosity is determined using a field ball viscometer and can range from 6 to 20 cst at a temperature of 20°.

Low engine oil pressure is usually a consequence of increased clearances in the crankshaft bearings. It has been established that in this case the oil, passing under pressure through the gaps, forms a thick oil mist in the crankcase, which is removed by the crankcase ventilation system. In addition, during normal engine operation, the clearances in the cylinder-piston group simultaneously increase. Therefore, a decrease in oil pressure in the system is usually accompanied by an increased consumption of oil through waste and carryover. Exhaust gases take on a blue tint. Based on these signs, it is easy to determine the true cause of low blood pressure.

When oil is diluted with fuel or water, its viscosity decreases and the pressure in the system decreases. Fuel enters the oil when the spark plug or injector is not working, as well as due to increased clearances in the cylinder-piston group.

If water seeps into the lubrication system through leaks in the head gasket, it is necessary to tighten the head nuts with a torque wrench, following the tightening rules. If the cylinder liner seal is damaged, replace the O-rings or gaskets. Cylinder blocks with cracks are usually discarded and sometimes repaired.

The presence of fuel in the oil can be determined by simple physical and chemical analyzes of an oil sample. If fuel gets into the oil, it is necessary to clarify how this happens. In an idle cylinder, fuel flows down the walls into the crankcase. An inoperative cylinder can be identified by sequentially switching off the cylinders. If fuel gets into the lubrication system of a diesel engine, it is necessary to remove the valve box covers and carefully check the connections of the fuel lines to the injectors. Then start the engine and let it run for 3-4 minutes. at 1700-1900 rpm. The location of the fuel leak is determined by the drops of fuel that appear in the fuel line connections. If fuel does not leak out, but the oil is diluted, it is necessary to remove the injectors and check their tightness using a device.

In a carbureted engine, fuel can enter the crankcase due to a ruptured fuel pump diaphragm. This is usually accompanied by interruptions in the fuel supply to the carburetor, so based on the combination of these signs, the malfunction is not difficult to identify.

Oil leakage through leaks in pipeline connections, oil seals, and gaskets is eliminated by tightening threaded connections, replacing oil seals or gaskets and other worn parts.

If there is no oil pressure at all in the lubrication system, despite the presence of oil and a working indicator, the engine must be stopped immediately. The most likely cause of a sudden drop in pressure may be damage to the oil line or the oil pump drive. Once the cause of the malfunction is determined, appropriate repairs are made.

Convenient selection and large assortment: spare parts for special equipment, hydraulics, drilling rigs, hydraulic hammers.

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Repair

If you have the desire and time, you can repair the unit, because this is not a VAZ pump, which cannot be restored. There is nothing complicated in such work. For repairs you need a small number of tools:

wrenches 10 (open-end, box, socket);
ruler;
set of probes (flat);
vice.

Replacing the drive gear in this vehicle unit

Instructions for removing the oil pump for Chevrolet and Daewoo Lanos, ZAZ Chance

It should be noted right away that the process of removing the oil pump on Lanos and Chance 1.5 is quite labor-intensive and long. However, if there are reasons for the need for diagnostics, then you should get down to business in a timely manner. The removal process begins with draining the engine oil. It is also better to carry out work in an inspection hole, which greatly facilitates the procedure. As soon as the oil is drained from the engine, we proceed to directly removing the oil pump on Lanos. The process of removing the oil pump is described for Lanos cars with an engine capacity of 1.5 liters 8 valves and Chance 1.5. For 1.6-liter Lanos, the replacement process is almost identical.

Initially, you should de-energize the car by disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery.
Jack up the car and remove the front right wheel.
Remove the air filter housing with the pipe.
Remove the protective casing of the gas distribution mechanism using a "10" key.
If the car has power steering, then the mechanism pump must be removed. The dismantling process includes unscrewing the three mounting bolts of the power steering pulley. Next, loosen the generator mounting bolt (using a “12” key) and remove the belt. After this, the power steering pulley is removed.
Set the piston of the first cylinder to the top dead center position. This procedure is carried out in order to remove the camshaft drive belt without disturbing the valve timing. To install the piston at TDC, you need to align the camshaft pulley with the mark on the cover (shown in the photo). This can be done by rotating the crankshaft pulley using a key set to “17”.
The crankshaft pulley is dismantled. To do this, engage fifth gear, squeeze the handbrake (it should be depressed anyway, since the car is jacked up) and press the brake pedal (ask an assistant). Using a key set to “17”, the bolt securing the crankshaft pulley is broken off and unscrewed, followed by dismantling the outer pulley.
After this, check the alignment of the mark on the inner pulley (star) of the crankshaft and the oil pump housing.
Remove the tension roller and timing belt. There is no need to remove the pump.
Unscrew the pressure sensor mounting bolt, disconnect the terminal, and remove it from the mounting hole. It is not necessary to unscrew the sensor, since you can simply disconnect the terminal. Be careful not to confuse this sensor with the crankshaft sensor. The photo shows the location of the sensors.
The camshaft pulley is dismantled.
Unscrew the bolts securing the rear timing cover. It is secured with four bolts, two of which are on top and two on the bottom.
Read also: Replacing coolant Lada 21124 (VAZ 21124)
The rear timing cover is removed.
Next we move into the pit and remove the crankcase. The engine protection, if present, is first dismantled. You can read how to remove the crankcase on a Lanos in this material.
We begin to unscrew the two fastening bolts of the oil receiver tube to the cylinder block. The 2 bolts securing the oil receiver to the oil pump are also unscrewed.
The Lanos oil receiver is dismantled. When you remove it, you can immediately carry out diagnostics. First of all, you need to wash the metal mesh using gasoline. The O-ring at the junction of the pump and receiver must be replaced. In case of low tightness, the efficiency of the oil pump decreases.
Next, the crankshaft toothed pulley is removed.
If it gets stuck, use a puller.
To remove the Lanos oil pump, you need to unscrew the 7 mounting bolts with a “10” key.
Using a screwdriver, pry up the mechanism and dismantle it.
If there is a gasket, you need to remove it from the cylinder block. Remaining gasket and sealant must be removed.
We clean the tray of accumulated dirt.

This completes the procedure for removing the oil pump on Lanos and Chance 1.5. You can proceed to the stage of diagnostics and identifying the causes of the malfunction.

Replacing the oil pump on a VAZ-2112 16 valves photo, video

If a red indicator lights up on your instrument panel, signaling a lack of oil pressure in the system, then do not rush to run to the store and buy a new oil pump.

The video discusses the most basic reasons why oil pressure may drop in a VAZ engine:

Replacing the oil pump

There is nothing difficult about replacing an oil pump. We drive the car into the pit, prepare the tools and get to work.

Disconnect the battery.
Removing the battery terminal for repair
Drain the oil into the prepared container (stopper on the tray).
The plug is unscrewed with a key
We jack up the car, place it on a good stand (a stump will do just fine) and remove the right wheel.
Remove the timing belt.
Timing belt without casing.
Remove the crankshaft pulley and key (you will need an assistant to clamp the flywheel with a screwdriver).
Remove the crankcase cover.
Removing the pallet
We remove the oil intake itself.
We clean the oil receiver grid (with solvent or kerosene).
And directly remove the oil pump itself (6 bolts on the cylinder block).
The location of the 6 bolts that secure the oil pump is marked with arrows

Reassemble the oil pump in reverse order.

The pan and oil pump gaskets must be replaced with new ones. Also, the new oil pump should be washed out of preservative grease and filled with oil (to prevent it from running dry during the first start after repair).

Why is an oil pump needed?

Pump appearance

The oil pump in the engine is designed to build up pressure in the oil system, for the necessary lubricating effect of all rubbing parts of the internal combustion engine. If the pressure in the system is insufficient, the lubrication effect will be ineffective, which in turn will lead to the engine being unsuitable for operation. In this case, the low oil pressure warning light on the instrument panel should light up. Therefore, you should not delay repairing the oil pump.

You are left with two options. Take the car to a service station and lose a lot of time and money, or change the oil pump yourself.

Pump diagnostics

Oil pump removed for diagnostics. Symptoms: oil leak.

First, you need to make sure that the oil pressure sensor itself is working properly - check whether the sensor itself is dry or oily.

Secondly, you need to check whether power is supplied to it correctly or whether a wire is broken somewhere. And only after these procedures, if the light does not go out, will you have to change the oil pump.

Why might it break prematurely?

An oil leak from the oil pump can lead to expensive engine repairs.

Replacement of the oil pump can also be caused by poor quality oil, which will lead to rapid clogging of the oil receiver grid and subsequent lack of oil pressure in the system. It is not uncommon for an oil pump to become wet and oil to leak from underneath it. In these cases, you can get by by replacing the gasket and cleaning the oil receiver mesh.

In general, the oil pump does not bring much trouble to VAZ-2112 owners. It is designed for 120 thousand kilometers. When purchasing a new pump and spare parts for its repair, choose original spare parts. The official manufacturer of oil pumps for the VAZ-2112 is the Tolyatti Plant (TZA).

Main causes of low oil pressure

The main reasons for low oil pressure on classic VAZ models are as follows:

Using low quality oil or the wrong type of engine.
Oil filter clogged.
Malfunction of the pressure sensor (you can check it by measuring the pressure with a mechanical pressure gauge).
Clogged oil receiver or failure of the oil pump.
Damage to the oil receiver as a result of mechanical deformation of the oil pan.

One of the reasons why the oil pressure light comes on is a faulty sensor.

All these reasons can lead to failure of the oil pump and its replacement. When purchasing a new pump, preference should be given to original products and trusted manufacturers. Otherwise, the result may be unpredictable.

The actual life of an oil pump is determined both by the quality of the product itself and the quality of the oil and oil filter used. Its failure in most cases is associated with wear of the gears and drive axis. At the same time, the repair is quite simple. On a pump removed from the car, you only need to replace the worn elements with new ones.

Replacing the oil pump on a VAZ 2109, 2108

The power plant of a modern car is equipped with several pumps. They can be called “hearts”, each of which pumps a specific liquid - fuel, antifreeze or oil. Today we will talk about one of them – oil. Since it is impossible to diagnose this unit without partially disassembling the motor, the condition of the pump is determined by indirect signs.

If it malfunctions, events most often unfold as follows: the oil pressure warning light lights up on the instrument panel. The car enthusiast checks its level and sees that it is normal (or adds oil if necessary), but the lamp does not even think of going out, which leads to the need to troubleshoot.

There can be many reasons why the light comes on, but most likely the oil pressure sensor is broken or something is wrong with the pump. In this article we will tell you how to correctly replace this unit on a VAZ-2109 and other cars of this family.

Where is the oil pump on the VAZ 2109

Its location is behind the crankshaft pulley. As a result of this circumstance, it will not be possible to get to it without removing some parts, in particular, the pulley itself and the oil pan. Below is a photo showing the oil pump in its seat.

When to change the oil pump

If the pump fails, the following things happen:

The oil pressure drops, as a result of which the corresponding control light on the dashboard lights up.
Oil consumption increases, and it constantly has to be topped up (however, this does not always happen).

How to replace the oil pump on a VAZ 2109, 2108, 21099

Tools:

Before you begin the replacement, prepare all the necessary tools. This is a set of wrenches, a set of sockets, a universal joint and an extension. If the pump is replaced with a new one, then buy the necessary spare part (its catalog number is “2108-1011010″). Also, drive the car into a hole or overpass, otherwise it will be very difficult for you to get to the pump.

Removal:

1) Remove the crankshaft position sensor. It should be noted that this is only relevant for an injection engine; if the engine is carburetor, skip this point.

2) Drain the engine oil.

3) Next, remove the timing pulley.

4) Now you can remove the oil pan. Then find the oil receiver and unscrew the bolts that secure it, and then remove it.

5) Take a socket of the required size and an extension, and use them to unscrew the 6 bolts that secure the oil pump to the engine block

Be extremely careful as there are washers under the bolts and it is very important not to lose them

6) Ideally, after step 6, the pump should be removed, but in practice this does not always happen. If this is your case, take a thicker screwdriver, insert it between the pump and the main bearing and gently wiggle it (remember, do not damage the bearing!).

7) Carefully remove the oil pump.

Installation:

1) Before you install a new unit, perform one very important procedure. You need to find the drive gear and turn it like this... (continued below)

2) So that its position coincides with the special flats located on the crankshaft.

3) Now take some engine oil and lubricate the front crankshaft oil seal (more precisely, its working edge).

4) Is the oil seal lip lubricated? Install the pump onto the crankshaft. For this you will need an ordinary pencil. It will be needed to tuck the oil seal into its place (this must be done strictly with the unsharpened end of a pencil!). After this, screw back the 6 bolts securing the oil pump, not forgetting the washers.

5) Now reassemble the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal. Archive important!

Since you will have to remove the timing belt to get to the timing pulley (and at the same time the radiator along with a number of other parts), be extremely careful with the crankshaft when changing the pump.

It must not be allowed to rotate at a significant angle, otherwise the pistons have every chance of meeting the valves, as a result of which they may become deformed, and this will lead to dire consequences.

Causes of failure

The main reasons why an oil pump fails (partially or completely) include oil leakage, oil pickup failure and wear of parts. Most often, oil pump gears suffer from wear.

Causes of oil pump failure

Oil leak

Quite often, drivers are faced with oil leaking directly from the pump housing. It is not possible to notice such a malfunction immediately, as a rule, only by indirect symptoms (the appearance of oil stains under the car, increased lubricant consumption, etc.). A leak can be caused by a leak in the oil pump gasket. A similar phenomenon is often encountered by motorists who, when replacing a pump, leave the old gasket, hoping that it will last for some time.

Oil leaking from oil pump

Oil receiver clogged

When the oil receiver screen becomes clogged, the oil pressure in the system quickly decreases, causing the indicator light to light up on the instrument panel. The same clogged crankcase leads to clogging of the oil receiver. To eliminate the malfunction, the used lubricant must be completely drained, and the pan and oil pump parts must be disassembled and cleaned with kerosene.

Oil pump oil receiver clogged

Wear

As physical wear occurs, the gap between the pump housing and the gears increases, and the pressure produced by the same pump, on the contrary, decreases. The new product allows a gap of up to 0.2 mm, but during vehicle operation the values can increase to 0.5 mm. Some craftsmen replace and adjust gears, but this is a very complex and time-consuming process. Therefore, it will be easier to change the oil pump completely.

Oil pump wear

The oil pump must be removed from the engine in the following order:

Remove the distributor cover and turn the crankshaft to a position in which ball 2 on the flywheel (mark “MZ”) is installed against the edge of pin 1 fixed in the inspection hatch of the clutch housing, and the distributor rotor plate is directed towards the housing terminal to which the low-voltage wire is connected. voltage from the ignition coil.
Unscrew the union nut and disconnect the vacuum tube from the fitting of the ignition distributor regulator chamber. Disconnect the low voltage wire from the terminal on the distributor body, loosen the bolt of the clamp securing the distributor in the cylinder head socket, and remove the distributor.
Remove the oil sump.
Unscrew the two bolts securing the pump housing flange to the bottom plane of the cylinder block and remove the pump. Installation of the oil pump into the engine is carried out in the reverse order. It must be taken into account that the oil pump drive gear must be engaged with the camshaft helical gear in a strictly defined position.
This is necessary to ensure correct mutual connection of the ignition distributor drive shaft with the pump shaft, since the position of the distributor vacuum regulator housing relative to the cylinder head casing depends on this.
At the upper end of the pump drive shaft there is a shank 1, which fits into the slot of the distributor shaft. When installing the pump correctly, shank 1 should be positioned perpendicular to axis 2 of the crankshaft when the piston of the first cylinder is at idle. compression stroke. To install the pump correctly, you need to rotate its drive shaft so that shank 1 is approximately parallel to axis a, connecting the two holes attaching the pump to the cylinder block, as shown by the line.
When installing the pump in place, do not rotate its housing. When the pump drive gear engages with the camshaft gear and rotates through a certain angle, the pump shaft shank will take the correct position. When installing the pump on the engine, it is necessary to install a new paper gasket between the pump housing flange and the bottom plane of the cylinder block. After installing the oil pump and distributor, adjust the initial ignition timing and secure the distributor body in the required position using the clamp bolt. If the oil pump and initial ignition timing have been set correctly, then after fixing the distributor, its vacuum regulator will take the position shown in the figure.
Reinstall the oil pan.

Removal from engine for disassembly

The video demonstrates the process of checking the VAZ 2104 oil pump. But measuring the gap between the housing and the gears, assessing the output of the drive and driven gears, the oil pump housing cover and many other subtleties are relevant for all types of oil pumps. Before disassembling, we recommend studying the structure and operating principle of the oil pump.

For a preliminary check, remove the distributor and remove the oil pump drive gear. If you find deep scuffs on the axle, you will most likely encounter knocked-down splines. Wedging of the drive gear is extremely dangerous, as the splines can be licked off. The consequence of a breakdown will be oil starvation, which for the engine ends at least with the crankshaft liners turned. You can also visually assess the play of the oil pump rod. On a working pump, the gap between the rod and housing pair should not exceed 0.1 mm.

The oil pump on classic VAZ cars is unscrewed from the crankcase. Therefore, to check, you will have to drain the oil and remove the pan, having first loosened the engine mounts (the engine needs to be raised a little).

Troubleshooting

Unscrew the oil receiver cap with pressure reducing valve. Don't lose the original spring thrust washer

Also note that one of the bolts will be shorter. Therefore, be sure to remember the location of its seat.

Using a caliper, measure the length of the spring at rest (should be at least 38 mm).

Remove the cover on which you can remove the wear marks left by the gears

Deep scoring is a clear sign that the oil pump is worn out. Repairing the cover involves leveling the mating plane.

Remove the oil pump drive gear from the housing. Check the condition of the teeth and shaft. Scratches and abrasions indicate wear. In the driven gear, additionally evaluate the condition of the fixation axis hole. Check the walls of the oil pump housing and the driven gear axis. Furrows and potholes indicate that debris has entered the work area.

Clearance tolerances

The gap between the housing plane and the gears. To measure, apply a caliper and insert a suitable feeler gauge into the gap formed. The norm is 0.066-0.161 mm. A gap of 0.2 mm is considered critical.
Gap between gear teeth. At extreme wear, the gap is 0.25 mm. If you get values of no more than 0.15 mm, the gears are still in good condition.
The gap between the walls of the working area of the oil pump housing and the gears should not exceed 0.25 mm; A range of 0.11-0.18 mm is considered normal.
The optimal gap between the hole in the housing and the gear shaft is 0.016-0.055 mm. When checking the VAZ oil pump without removing it from the engine, we said that the play should not be more than 0.1 mm. As for the gap between the axle and the driven gear, it should be in the range of 0.017-0.057 mm; critical limit – 0.1 mm.

The entire troubleshooting process is clearly shown in the video.

Eliminating oil leaks

Many models of saws experience oil pump malfunctions during their operation. The nature of these defects may vary, but ultimately this leads to an oil leak. Moreover, such leaks can appear even when the saw is in a lying position. Oil pump pf-43 on a chainsaw and its design. Why doesn't the oil pump work? This is justified by the uneven distribution of water in the storage tank.

Leaks also occur due to the fact that oil pumps for chainsaws have a fitting on their own body for attaching a hose. A loose connection between the water tank and the pump may result in oily droplets.

Such difficulties can be solved by disassembling the saw and repairing the oil pump.

The disassembly process should be approached very carefully so as not to destroy the moving parts of the pump. The following tools will also be useful for this:

In most cases, all chainsaw oil pumps consist of 2 main halves. In one half there is a working mechanism, and in the second there is a storage chamber.

The video discusses repairing a chainsaw

and its sealing in the housing. And this is a similar video.

If the pump leaks, it is necessary to replace the gasket between the two parts of the mechanism.

For repairs, you should disassemble the unit into halves, without touching the working part. There should be a gasket at the junction. Hello everyone, tell me how to remove the oil pump and replace it like in a chainsaw. In this case, if it has huge compressed areas, then the gasket needs to be changed.

If the gasket is not bad, then it should be wiped and replaced. Then the hose is checked. There should be no cracks or diaper rashes on it that will disturb its density. As a rule, when the engine operates normally at low speeds, the oil pump. If similar defects are detected, the hose must be replaced. How to change the oil pump in an alligator chainsaw at home, you will need a few tools and desire, everything is very simple, support our channel in any way you can. If the hose is not bad, then it needs to be washed, degreased and sealed.

Then all output channels are checked, in which there should be no third-party inclusions (garbage, slag, etc.). How to change the oil pump in an alligator chainsaw at home, replacing the oil pump. This debris will lead to congestion, which will create vacuum plugs. If they are detected, the channels should be cleaned. This can be done with compressed air.

Typical faults

The most common oil pump malfunctions include:

valve spring damage or deformation;
reduction valve failure;
wear of gear teeth;
wear of seats on the oil pump housing;
damage to the body;
clogging of the pump oil receiver.

Main malfunctions of the oil pump
There are not many signs indicating a breakdown of the oil pump. The main ones include:

the appearance of suspicious sounds at the pump installation site;
rapid heating of the motor;
noticeable increase in oil consumption;
the appearance of local pinpoint oil leaks;
reduction in engine power.

Signs of a faulty oil pump

On a note! A warning light on the dashboard in the form of an oil can, which is constantly lit, indicates a decrease in oil pressure to the minimum permissible level.

Preventive measures

In order to reduce the possibility of various oil leaks while using the saw, it should be periodically serviced. During this process, it is necessary to monitor the tightness of all hoses and gaskets. How does a chainsaw oil pump work | husqvarna. If they are detected, the connecting parts should be pulled.

It is imperative to inspect the quality of the oil being poured. It must be of high quality and used in strict accordance with the features indicated in the product passport. With all this, under no circumstances can you use mining, since it has a heterogeneous structure. Also, it is imperative to do repeated purging of the oil pump. How to remove the oil pump of a Huskvarna chainsaw, kak-snyat-maslyanyiy-nasos-benzopilyi-huskvarna. This will help prevent debris from coking in its working channels.

Low quality lubricating water will worsen the quality of the tool and reduce its service life.

In addition, if the lubrication is poor, the chain may fail, replacing which will be a rather expensive procedure.

After performing sawing work, it is necessary to make sure to clean the saw from any sawdust that has fallen on it. Oil pump; Generally, the oil pump consists of two on the surface should not. During long breaks in work, the chainsaw should be hung in a vertical position. This will allow the oil water to spread moderately throughout all the channels of the instrument. Such uniform distribution will avoid vacuum plugs, which can cause oil pump malfunctions.

General installation instructions

To ensure proper operation and longevity of the pump, the installation instructions of the motor manufacturer must always be followed when installing a new pump.

However, the following general guidelines must always be followed:

Release the filled oil. It must be checked for possible contamination. First of all, metallic contaminants often cause clogging and mechanical wear of individual engine components.
When installing the pump, be sure to ensure cleanliness. The oil suction pipe is usually equipped with only one coarse filter. Metal and contaminant particles can easily enter the new pump after repair and cause repeated wear in a short time. Therefore, it is necessary to clean, if possible, all structural elements, channels and the oil suction pipe that are connected to oil.
When installing a new oil pump, it is always necessary to change the oil filter as well. If the oil pressure system is heavily contaminated, it also needs to be further cleaned.
Before installing a new oil pump, it must be compared with the geometry of the old pump.
The pump drive (gears, sprockets, drive chains and belts) must be checked for possible damage.

Before installing the pump, all moving parts of the pump (gears, shafts) must be lubricated with the prescribed oil.

When installing, pay attention to the correct position of the pump. If installation problems occur (improper fit, oblique position), do not screw it with force in relation to the fastenings on the housing

This can cause damage to the pump, functional problems and leaks.

When installing the oil pump and oil suction pipe, always use new seals and O-rings. Avoid general use of liquid sealants. They may only be used and installed where specified by the engine manufacturer. The pump mounting screws must be tightened during installation taking into account the tightening torques prescribed by the engine manufacturer and the appropriate screw tightening sequence.

If safety washers are provided against unintentional unscrewing, they must be used in accordance with the engine manufacturer's instructions.

Before starting the engine, we recommend filling the oil system using a special pressure reservoir (pressure method). In this case, the pressure side of the oil system becomes completely filled with oil and there is no air in it. Typically, the system is filled until oil reaches the engine lubrication points, located at the highest points and furthest from the oil pump. In this case, oil should come out on the valve rocker arms or from the camshaft bearings. This prevents damage that may occur when starting the engine with insufficient oil pressure.

Once the oil system is “pressurized,” the engine is filled to the prescribed oil level. When starting the engine after changing the oil pump, the engine takes a few seconds to build up oil pressure. If oil pressure is not created, then it is necessary to interrupt the starting process, immediately turn off the engine and eliminate the cause. In this case, abandon the idea of running the engine at high speeds in order to accelerate the formation of oil pressure in the system. Use only those oils prescribed and recommended by the engine manufacturer.