Clutch cylinder VAZ 2107 - purpose, repair and replacement


The device of the working cylinder in a VAZ

In classic VAZ 2106, 2101, 2107 models, the clutch consists of two cylinders - the main and the working. Essentially, they do the same job. The clutch slave cylinder in the VAZ 2106, 2101, 2107 is located near the vehicle’s gearbox - in these models there are no significant differences in the structure of the part. It is secured to the box body with several bolts. The location of the part in these VAZ models is designed in such a way that it can only be seen from below the car.

When you press the clutch pedal, a piston moves inside the master cylinder, causing the brake fluid to be pushed out. After this, the brake fluid passes through the entire cylinder and, under the influence of the created pressure, exerts work on the same piston, which in turn presses on the fork in the cylinder. Both clutch cylinders of the car are dependent on the presence of brake fluid.

Therefore, it is very important to check the presence of this fluid in the tank, which is located under the hood of the car, and not allow it to drop to a critical level.

It often happens that liquid leaks. This happens due to wear of parts or due to the use of brake fluid that is not intended for VAZ cars. For VAZ 2106, 2101, 2107 models, the DOT-3 brand is used. The use of another type has a bad effect not only on the clutch slave cylinder, but also on the main one.

There are also cases when the master cylinder may also be the result of a clutch failure in a VAZ car - such a failure is very easy to notice. It is enough to open the hood of the car and look at the reservoir into which the brake fluid is poured. There will be noticeable drips at the junction of it with the cylinder. In this case, you need to tighten the bolts. If the fluid continues to leak, then it is necessary to use a repair kit or replace the part completely.

Monitoring the brake fluid

One of the main signs of failure of the clutch slave cylinder in VAZ 2106, 2101, 2107 cars is partial or complete failure of the pedal inside the car when pressed. This indicates a lack of tightness in the system - gradually the amount of brake fluid decreases, and the harder and more often you press the pedal, the more fluid will leave at a time.

This will cause the clutch to stop working and changing gears will be difficult or impossible. If you do not monitor the level of brake fluid in the reservoir and do not eliminate leaks in a timely manner, then consequences may arise - the clutch basket and release bearing will fail, not to mention the creation of emergency situations.

To eliminate the cause of the breakdown or completely replace the working cylinder, depending on the nature of the breakdown, you will need a new working cylinder, brake fluid and a standard set of tools. It is best to replace the working cylinder in a VAZ 2106, 2101, 2107 car from an inspection hole or on a lift. Before starting work, it is necessary to drain the brake fluid that is in the clutch system. Having all the necessary tools at hand, the procedure for removing the cylinder is very easy.

The first step is to pull out the pusher clamp, then remove the tension spring. Next, slowly unscrew the nut on the hose with the liquid, after placing a container to collect it. Then proceed to unscrew the cylinder mounting bolts, after first pulling out the pusher with the clutch fork. Move the fork with the pusher so that it does not interfere with you. Between the working cylinder and the rubber hose there is a rubber gasket with a sealing washer. It is very important not to lose it, because it is not included in the repair kit.

Replace the clutch slave cylinder and proceed with reassembly in reverse order. If necessary, you can adjust the depth of pedal pressing on the cylinder fitting. After completing all the work, fill the brake fluid into the clutch reservoir. Filling will help to completely flush the entire hydraulic clutch system of a VAZ car. Bleeding is performed to clear your system of air that is in the brake fluid.

Product location

The master cylinder on a VAZ 2107 is located under the hood, directly on the wall separating the interior from the hood, near the driver’s feet. Directly above it is the expansion tank, and next to it are the vacuum booster and the brake master cylinder. Usually, simply looking at the product is enough to determine the problem. The presence of a leak indicates that the part is faulty and requires repair or replacement.

Purpose of the device

Cars are equipped with clutch master and slave cylinders, without which the operation of the mechanism is impossible. The VAZ 2107 clutch master cylinder is designed to push out brake fluid. Below is a diagram from which you can visually find out the operating features of the unit.

When you press the clutch pedal, the piston moves in the device in question, thereby pushing out the brake fluid. This liquid enters the working cylinder through a tube, where the reverse process is observed (the liquid pushes out the piston). Brake fluid drives a piston, which is connected by a fork to the clutch disc. As a result, the clutch disc and flywheel are separated, allowing you to change gear. The GCS is also called the main one, since it is with its help that force is supplied from the pedal when it is pressed.

The need to replace the device: when required

Like all parts of any car, the GVC tends to wear out, resulting in the need for repair or replacement. The simplest breakdown of a product is wear of the boot, which can be determined by the characteristic signs of a fluid leak.

To identify a cylinder malfunction, an initial visual inspection is required. It is possible to repair a failed main circulation system on a VAZ 2107; for this you can look for repair kits, but this is not always rational due to the quality of modern spare parts, so it is easier and faster to replace it entirely. The malfunction can also be determined by the characteristic loss of pressure in the system, which is determined by pressing the pedal. Let’s take a closer look at how to change a faulty VAZ 2107 mechanism.

We change it ourselves

Replacing the VAZ 2107 clutch master cylinder begins with the need to pump out the brake fluid from the hydraulic reservoir. This can be done using a syringe or a rubber bulb. Together with this socket or a 10mm wrench, unscrew the bracket securing the expansion tank and move it to the side to gain access to the cylinder.

The next step involves removing the clutch expansion tank hose. To do this, you need to loosen the hose clamp, then disconnect the hose and position it so that it does not interfere with further work. If you want to remove the tank completely, this is done very simply.

Further actions are performed in the following sequence:

  1. Using a “10” wrench, you need to unscrew the pipeline securing nut to the device. Once the nut is unscrewed, the tube can be moved to the side.
  2. There is a hose nearby near the steel pipeline, which also needs to be disconnected from the main device. This can be done by loosening the fixing clamp.

  3. The GCS is fixed to the body using two fastening nuts. To unscrew them, you will need to use a wrench with an extension and a “13” socket. After unscrewing the two nuts, you can remove the product and drain the remaining brake fluid from it. If it is not possible to dismantle the unit, you can press the clutch pedal, as a result of which it will move.
  4. But repairs are usually not rational, so after removing the old one, a new unit is installed in its place. Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal. After installation, it is necessary to carry out the process of pumping the hydraulic drive, first pouring fuel fluid into the tank. You can find out how the system is pumped from the relevant material on the website.

We perform pumping correctly

Bleeding the clutch must be done immediately after replacing the working cylinder, as well as when the level of brake fluid in the reservoir is low. Work is carried out on bleeding in VAZ 2106, 2101, 2107 cars through a fitting located on the working cylinder.

First, fill the brake fluid reservoir full. Find a partner for this job who will press the clutch pedal inside the car. Take the hose and put it on the fitting of the slave cylinder, then tell your partner to depress the clutch pedal several times. After this, let him press the pedal all the way and do not let go, at this time you should slightly loosen the nut on the fitting to release some liquid and air.

Replacing the clutch master cylinder on a VAZ-2104-2107

The main purpose of the clutch master cylinder is that it transmits force to the slave cylinder from the clutch pedal using working fluid. If the master cylinder is faulty, vehicle control will be impaired and it will be impossible to disconnect the transmission from the engine. How to determine if the clutch master cylinder is faulty:

  • Periodically check the level of working fluid in the tank. A sharp decrease in it will indicate a system malfunction;
  • check for leaks in the main and working cylinder housings;
  • failure of the clutch pedal, which occurs due to the entry and accumulation of air in the clutch system;
  • underpressure of the pedal and vibration of the gear shift lever.

Main types of faults:

  • there is a leak in the master cylinder;
  • cuff wear;
  • piston wear;
  • the inside of the case is damaged (chips, scratches, etc.);
  • For all classics of the Auto VAZ family, the clutch device is the same, including for 2107. The sequence of actions is the same.

There are two ways to eliminate a malfunction of the master cylinder - replacement with a new one and repair. What can be repaired:

  • replace rubber cuffs;
  • frame.

These actions do not always lead to the desired effect, especially on an old car with decent mileage. It is recommended to replace the master cylinder with a new one. Its cost is not high, approximately from 450 to 500 rubles. It's better to buy the original.

Malfunctions of the VAZ 2107 clutch master cylinder

Like any mechanism, the master cylinder is subject to wear, which reduces the efficiency of the system as a whole. The main malfunctions of the cylinder are fluid leaks or loss of nominal dimensions of the cylinder mirror, piston, wear of cuffs and seals. This is expressed in incomplete disengagement of the clutch, the pedal may fall through or be too tight. At the first suspicion of the clutch drive, we perform an initial diagnosis of the system:

  1. Check the fluid level in the clutch reservoir. A level that is too low indicates a brake fluid leak.
  2. Inspect the master cylinder for leaks. It should be taken into account that it can leak both in the area of ​​the hydraulic drive fitting, the plug gasket, and in the area of ​​the protective cap, which faces towards the pedal. In this case, the liquid will penetrate into the interior under the carpet and the leak may not be noticed immediately.


    In this case, the leak was caused by wear of the piston cuff; fluid flowed into the passenger compartment.

  3. If the clutch starts to engage only after a few presses of the pedal, then most likely air has entered the drive system. In this case, it is necessary to find out the cause of airing (loss of tightness, leak of the main or working cylinder), and only then perform bleeding and removal of air from the hydraulic system.

Possible malfunctions and their diagnosis

Signs indicating malfunctions in the clutch drive can be diagnosed based on the following: - The level in the clutch reservoir has dropped significantly, this indicates that brake fluid is leaking somewhere in the system; if the connecting tubes are intact, then this may be caused by worn cuffs or piston failure in the master cylinder. — A visual inspection showed the presence of places where fluid was leaking: tubes, cuffs, etc. — When pressed, periodic failures of the pedal occur, this indicates that there is air in the clutch drive, this happens when hoses are cracked or when the level in the reservoir drops below the minimum. — When changing gears, a characteristic sound is heard in the gearbox, reminiscent of a “crunch”; the cause may be a malfunction of the piston or spring of the master cylinder.

Replacement

The cost of this type of work in a car service starts from 550 rubles. But for most car enthusiasts, this operation is not so difficult to perform on their own.

  • new GVC;
  • brake fluid;
  • set of wrenches with extension;
  • syringe or rubber bulb.
  1. Pump out the fluid from the hydraulic drive reservoir using a syringe or rubber bulb.
  2. Remove the expansion tank and move it to the side so that it does not interfere with work.
  3. Unscrew the tube with a 13mm wrench. Move it a little.
  4. Loosen the clamp and disconnect the rubber hose that goes from the tank to the cylinder.
    Unscrew the two nuts with a 13mm socket wrench and an extension.
  5. Remove the master cylinder from the studs.
  6. Replace the GCS with a new one.
  7. Reassemble everything in reverse order.

Bleeding the clutch

The replacement has been made, but you should not hit the road without bleeding the clutch system. The process is similar to bleeding the brakes and is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. Brake fluid is poured into the reservoir.
  2. A hose is put on the master cylinder fitting, the other end is lowered into a bottle filled with liquid. This will show how air leaves the system during the pumping process.
  3. The operation requires an assistant. One sits in the car and presses the clutch pedal 5-6 times on command, after which he leaves it pressed. The second one opens the fitting until the release of air stops. This is done several times until all air is removed from the clutch system.
  • Tighten the fitting and add fluid to the reservoir.
  • Conclusion

    After replacing the clutch master cylinder and bleeding the entire system, you can safely hit the road without fear that the clutch will fail and the car will lose control because of it.

Replacing the clutch master cylinder VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107

Replacing the clutch master cylinder of VAZ 2101, 21063 and other classic VAZs is carried out in the same way as replacing the brake master cylinder of a VAZ. The first step is to take the fluid from the clutch reservoir - this is necessary so that after disconnecting the rubber hose in the winding going from the reservoir to the clutch master cylinder, the liquid does not spill into the engine compartment - it has a very negative effect on the paint, after accidental contact with the paint it should be wipe with a wet cloth. To pump out liquid from the tank, you will need a syringe, or “bulb”.


After the fluid has been pumped out, you should move the washer fluid tank aside. It is not at all necessary to remove it, you just need to unscrew the two nuts holding the tank and, together with the hose, take it closer to the hood. After the glass washer tank is removed, you will need a wrench, or even better, a special wrench for unscrewing the fittings that hold the metal tube in the clutch master cylinder. The fitting should be completely unscrewed from the clutch master cylinder and the metal tube should be pulled out of the cylinder. After unscrewing the metal tube, you should unscrew the lower clamp that clamps the rubber hose on the clutch master cylinder, prepare a small container so that after the clamp is loosened from below, you can pull out the hose, take it to the side - over the prepared container and drain the liquid remaining in the rubber hose . Then unscrew the upper clamp on the rubber hose. To remove the VAZ clutch master cylinder you will need a 13mm wrench, but it will be more convenient to work with an inertial wrench with an adapter tube; when working with an adapter tube, the brake cylinder will not interfere with you, the nuts holding the clutch cylinder can be unscrewed with a regular wrench, but this is much less convenient and will take more time. After unscrewing the nuts, the clutch cylinder is pulled out from the studs. Before installing the new cylinder, you need to press the clutch pedal, you can use a brick, if you do the work yourself, you will see that the clutch plug has come out, you need to put a new clutch cylinder on it. Assembly is carried out in the reverse order, after the new cylinder is installed and the fluid is added, it is necessary to pump the clutch pedal using the fitting on the clutch slave cylinder.

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Dismantling the hydraulic drive

To perform the operation we will need:

  1. container for operating fluid and a large-volume syringe.
  2. set of wrenches and sockets;
  3. screwdriver and pliers.

The order of work is as follows:

  1. Brake fluid is pumped out from the expansion tank of the master cylinder of a VAZ 2107 car using a syringe. A rubber tube is disconnected from the drive, from which the remains are also poured into the prepared container. If liquid gets on paint surfaces, they must be wiped with a damp cloth.
  2. Using an open-end wrench set to “10”, unscrew the fitting of the pipeline connecting the main and working hydraulic drives.
  3. Using a “13” socket and an extension adapter, unscrew the nuts holding the assembly to the engine compartment panel.
  4. To remove the master cylinder from the studs, simply press the clutch pedal, this will move it out of place, after which you can pull it out by hand.

The work on removing the unit is completed, and you can begin installing the spare part.

How to replace the clutch master cylinder on a VAZ 2107 yourself

Cars of the Volzhsky plant models 01-07 have a hydraulic clutch drive. The main actuator of this mechanism of the VAZ 2107 is replaced in the event of its breakdown or failure. The cylinder is secured to the engine compartment shield on the driver's side with two studs and nuts, and a reservoir with brake fluid is installed in the upper part. A pipeline is laid from it to the working unit.

  1. Fault diagnosis
  2. Dismantling the hydraulic drive
  3. Hydraulic drive installation

Fault diagnosis

Identifying the causes of a clutch drive malfunction begins with an external inspection and check of the master and slave cylinders. The main cause of malfunctions of these components in most cases is wear of the rubber cuffs and wear on the walls of the mechanism. In this case, the main and working drives must be unconditionally replaced; attempts to repair them rarely give a positive result.

Dismantling the hydraulic drive

To perform the operation we will need:

  1. container for operating fluid and a large-volume syringe.
  2. set of wrenches and sockets;
  3. screwdriver and pliers.

The order of work is as follows:

  1. Brake fluid is pumped out from the expansion tank of the master cylinder of a VAZ 2107 car using a syringe. A rubber tube is disconnected from the drive, from which the remains are also poured into the prepared container. If liquid gets on paint surfaces, they must be wiped with a damp cloth.
  2. Using an open-end wrench set to “10”, unscrew the fitting of the pipeline connecting the main and working hydraulic drives.
  3. Using a “13” socket and an extension adapter, unscrew the nuts holding the assembly to the engine compartment panel.
  4. To remove the master cylinder from the studs, simply press the clutch pedal, this will move it out of place, after which you can pull it out by hand.

The work on removing the unit is completed, and you can begin installing the spare part.

Hydraulic drive installation

Replacing a mechanism involves purchasing it in a retail network or via the Internet. Installation work is performed in the following sequence:

  1. The clutch master cylinder of the VAZ 2107 is put on the studs and pushed all the way to the base.
  2. The nuts are screwed onto the fasteners and tightened with a wrench to “13”.
  3. The union nut of the pipeline laid to the working hydraulic drive is screwed into the main cylinder.
  4. The rubber tube is connected to a plastic connecting element and secured with a clamp.
  5. The expansion tank is filled with brake fluid, which enters the main and slave cylinders of the clutch through tubes. Replacing the fluid in the system is mandatory due to wear products.

Upon completion of installation of parts, it is necessary to inspect and check the tightness of the nuts. Replacing the main or working clutch drive of a VAZ 2107 car ends with bleeding the system.

Communities › Auto club VAZ and Lada Classic. › Blog › How to replace the clutch master cylinder of a VAZ-2107

If you begin to notice that there are visible leaks from under the cuff on the side of the clutch pedal, and there is a wet mark under the hood at the place where the cylinder is attached, while there is a sharp decrease in the brake fluid level in the reservoir, and the clutch is not being released well, then it’s time to change the clutch master cylinder.

We buy a new clutch cylinder and find time for repairs - with good skill, you can do it in an hour.

So, we need to arm ourselves with: - An open-end wrench for 8 and 13 - A socket wrench for 13 with an extension - A flat and figured screwdriver - VD-40 or an analogue, a metal brush - A medical dropper or hose for pumping - A rubber bulb or syringe for pumping liquids - Clean jar for liquid

How to replace the clutch slave cylinder on a VAZ 2101-VAZ 2107

Lada Priora hatchback Logbook Steering rack repair
1) To remove it, first you will need to stock up on a wrench and, using a wrench, loosen the nut that secures the hose to the cylinder.

Please note that you only need to loosen the tightening of this nut, and not completely unscrew it, and then disconnect the hose from the cylinder, this does not need to be done yet, this is just below!

2) Then put the wrench aside, and then use pliers to pull back and then completely remove the release spring from the cylinder.

3) Next, without removing the pliers, straighten and then remove the cotter pin from the hole located in the tip of the pusher of this cylinder.

The cotter pin is one of those parts that is very often lost, so put it in a visible place so that later you can easily find it and install it back!

4) Next, using a wrench, remove the two bolts that secure the cylinder to the clutch housing of the gearbox.

5) Now disconnect the bracket from the cylinder, which was also bolted together with the cylinder itself and which serves to secure the tension spring.

6) Then, grasping the working cylinder with your hand, carefully remove it, while removing the pusher, which is indicated by the arrow, from the hole located in the fork.

7) And then completely unscrew the nut that secures the hose to the cylinder, and then completely remove the cylinder from the car.

Before you start unscrewing this nut, prepare some kind of plug or container into which all the brake fluid from the clutch hydraulic hose will drain. Now that everything is prepared, carefully unscrew the nut that secures the hose and thereby disconnect the hose from the cylinder and then drain all the used brake fluid from the hole in the hose, as well as from the hole in the working cylinder itself!

It would be better, of course, to drain all the fluid from the hose into a container and, after installing the new cylinder, pour completely new brake fluid into the clutch hydraulic drive, because when the fluid is drained, it will thereby flush the entire system from the dirt that is in it! (For information on how to add brake fluid to the clutch reservoir, see the article entitled: “Replacing clutch fluid”)

1) Installation of a new clutch cylinder occurs in the reverse order of removal.

After installing the cylinder, be sure to bleed the clutch! (For information on how to bleed the clutch, see the article: “Bleeding the clutch on a VAZ”)

For more details on the process of replacing this cylinder, you can watch the video clip located just below:

Removing and installing clutch slave and master cylinders

2104, 2105, 2107

repair

transmission

clutch

Dismantling and assembling clutch cylinders

Troubleshooting in the clutch drive of the Lada 2105, replacing oil seals in the main working cylinder, adjusting the clutch of the Lada 2107, bleeding the clutch of a car with your own hands VAZ 2104, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2107.

Dismantling and assembling clutch cylinders Clutch device VAZ 2107, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2104, do-it-yourself repair, transmission repair, clutch, troubleshooting and repair

Parts of the VAZ 2107 clutch master cylinder: 1 - housing; 2 — lock washer; 3 - fitting; 4 - gasket; 5 - cap; 6 — retaining ring; 7 — pusher piston; 8 - sealing ring; 9 — piston of the main cylinder; 10 - spring

Main cylinder. Remove the protective rubber cap 5 of the cylinder body of the VAZ 2104, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2107 and the retaining ring 6. This will allow you to remove the piston 7, the sealing ring 8, the floating piston 9 with the sealing ring and the piston return spring 10 from the housing. The cylinder mirror and the outer surface of the piston must not have any damage or hazards. The internal diameter of the master cylinder should be 19.05+0.025–0.015 mm. Check the condition of the piston return spring and replace it if it has lost elasticity. Replace the O-rings. Check the protective cap at the rear end of the cylinder and if the cap is damaged, replace it with a new one. Before assembly, carefully clean and rinse the parts with brake fluid. Do not allow mineral oil, gasoline, kerosene or diesel fuel to come into contact with the parts, as these substances will cause the rubber seals to swell. After checking all the parts, assemble the clutch master cylinder of the VAZ 2107, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2104 in the reverse order of disassembly; Moreover, lubricate all parts of the cylinder with brake fluid or preservation fluid NG-213.

Parts of the clutch release cylinder of VAZ 2104, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2107 (working cylinder): 1 - housing; 2 - fitting; 3 - cap; 4 - pusher; 5 - sealing ring; 6 - piston; 7 — sealing ring; 8 - plate; 9 - spring; 10 — washer; 11 — retaining ring

Working cylinder of VAZ 2104, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2107. Remove the protective rubber cap 3 together with the pusher 4, remove the piston and disassemble it, having first removed the retaining ring 11. After disassembly, carefully rinse and check all parts, as indicated for the master cylinder. Installation of a deformed pusher is not allowed. After checking, proceed with assembly (the reverse order of disassembly), lubricate the parts with hydraulic fluid for the Lada Classic.

Clutch VAZ 2107, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2104

  • Clutch device

    Clutch device VAZ 2107, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2104

    Clutch Release Adjustment

    Adjusting the clutch release of VAZ 2107, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2104

    Main clutch cylinder VAZ Classic, Niva

    Dear customers, in order to avoid errors when sending the clutch master cylinder, please indicate the model and year of manufacture of your car in the “Comment” line.

    The main components in a hydraulic system are the cylinders. They are called the master and slave cylinders of the VAZ 2107 clutch.

    The clutch master cylinder is designed to convert the mechanical force from the corresponding pedal into a hydraulic force, which flows through the main pipes from the master cylinder to the working cylinder and is converted by it into the mechanical movement of the release fork, which in turn moves the release bearing.

    1 - flywheel; 2 — clutch driven disc; 3 — clutch basket; 4 — release bearing with clutch; 5 — hydraulic clutch reservoir; 6 - hose; 7 — master cylinder of the hydraulic clutch release; 8 — servo spring of the clutch pedal; 9 — clutch pedal return spring; 10 — clutch pedal travel limit screw; 11 — clutch pedal; 12 — hydraulic clutch release pipeline; 13 — ball joint fork; 14 — clutch release fork; 15 — release spring for clutch release fork; 16 — hose; 17 — working cylinder of the hydraulic clutch release; 18 — clutch bleeder fitting

    When you press the pedal, the master cylinder rod is activated, at the end of which there is a piston with an oil-gasoline-resistant cuff. The piston transmits pressure to the hydraulic fluid, thereby providing a force that is transmitted through the tube to the piston of the working cylinder. It converts hydraulic force into mechanical movement of the release fork, which in turn moves the release bearing, which presses the VAZ 2107 clutch disc.

    1 - body; 2 — lock washer;; 3 — flexible hose fitting for supplying liquid from the tank; 4 — fitting gasket; 5 — protective cover; 6 — retaining ring; 7 — bushing; 8 — piston cuff, sealing ring; 9 — piston of the main cylinder; 10 - spring.

    The master cylinder body is cast iron. It is mounted on the pedal bracket under the engine hood. Its cylinder is bored to a diameter of 19.05 mm and a length of 112 mm. From the outer end it is closed with a plug installed on a copper gasket; it is tightened with a torque of 8-10 kgf*m. The cylinder houses the steel master cylinder piston. It is sealed with a cuff tightly pressed against the cylinder mirror under pressure with liquid. This fluid is supplied under the cuff through channels with diameters of 2 mm. The sealing part of the piston (ring holder - sealing ring) has a size of 19 m. The cuff is at the same time an annular floating valve, which closes the bypass hole when the piston moves. The force on the piston is transmitted from the clutch pedal through the pusher and the pusher piston.

    The chrome-plated steel piston has an outer diameter of 19 mm. The forces at the beginning of the piston stroke and the sealing of the interface between the pistons are transmitted through the sealing ring. After the clutch is disengaged, the pistons are returned to their original position by a spring.

    The fluid enters the master cylinder from a reservoir installed under the hood through a rubber fitting and an inlet (compensation) hole having a diameter of 4.5 mm. Compensation for the vacuum generated during the return movement of the piston is carried out by the flow of liquid into the working cavity of the main cylinder through the hole, the gap at the rear end of the cuff and the hole. The bypass hole (0.7 mm) is designed to bypass excess fluid from the main cylinder into the reservoir, which flows from the working cylinder into the main cylinder when the piston returns to its original position.

    Technical characteristics of the clutch master cylinder VAZ 2101 - 2107:

    Working pressure: MPa – 20;

    Cylinder diameter: mm – 19;

    Piston stroke: mm - 35.

    The hydraulic system uses only brake fluid of type DOT-3, 4, which has deep penetrating ability and does not corrode rubber O-rings.

    Other articles of the product and its analogues in the catalogues: 2101-1602615-17, MB01-1602610, A11.1602610, C1939 C3.1.

    VAZ 2101, 2102, 2103, 2104, 2105, 2106, 21074, VAZ 2121, VAZ 2131, VAZ 2120.

    Before assembly, the parts of the main cylinder of the hydraulic drive are lubricated with special lubricant DT-1, and the head of the pusher tip is lubricated with Litol-24 or LSTs-15 grease.

    Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, especially before a long trip. Use only brake fluid. Wash away dust or wash the cylinders only with special cleaning liquids or, for example, methyl alcohol, but in no case with gasoline or oil.

    Any breakdown is not the end of the world, but a completely solvable problem!

    How to independently replace the clutch master cylinder on a VAZ 2101-2107 family car.

    AvtoAzbuka online store, repair costs will be minimal.

    Just COMPARE and BE SURE!!!

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    Clutch master cylinder VAZ 2107

    The VAZ 2107 hydraulic clutch drive is the best option for rear-wheel drive vehicles. An important role in the hydraulic drive system is played by the clutch master cylinder (MCC).

    Purpose of the GVC

    The GCS converts the force of pressing the pedal into working fluid pressure (WF), which is transmitted through pipelines using the working cylinder piston (WCC) to the fork rod. As a result, the latter rotates on a hinged support and moves the pressure bearing, turning the clutch (MC) on or off. Thus, the GVC performs two functions:

    • converts pressing the clutch pedal into fluid pressure;
    • transmits pressure to the working cylinder.

    Operating principle of the GCS

    To create pressure in the hydraulic system you need:

    • working environment;
    • cylinder with piston;
    • the force that causes the piston to move.

    The VAZ 2107 MS drive uses brake fluid (ROSA DOT-4 is recommended), which practically does not compress and does not have a negative effect on rubber products.

    The piston moves through a rod connected to the clutch pedal. The pressure in the system is created by analogy with a medical syringe due to the fact that the piston and the hole through which the gas is ejected have different diameters. The system differs from a syringe in that the GCS provides for the forced return of the piston to its original position. In addition, the heating of the fluid and moving parts during operation is taken into account.

    The GCS works as follows. Working fluid through hole 19 is supplied from the tank into the working cavity 22 in front of the piston. When you press pedal 15, pusher 16 moves and, resting against piston 7, moves it forward. When the piston closes holes 3 and 19, the pressure of the liquid in front of it will begin to increase sharply and will be transmitted through the pipelines to the RCS piston. The latter will turn the fork through the pusher, and its front ends will move the clutch with the release bearing (VP) forward. The bearing will press on the friction spring of the pressure plate, which, moving towards the VP, will release the driven disk, and the clutch will disengage.

    When the pedal is released, the reverse process will begin. The pressure on the piston will disappear, and due to the return spring 23 it will begin to move to its original position. At the same time, the RCS piston and the fork return spring will also begin to move in the opposite direction and create pressure in front of it, which will be transmitted back to the RCS through the pipeline. As soon as it becomes greater than the force of the return spring of the GCS piston, it will stop. Through the bypass channel in piston 21, the inner surface of the floating sealing ring 20, which acts as a check valve, will be under pressure. The ring will flatten and block the bypass hole 3 in the cylinder body. As a result, a slight excess pressure will remain, which will remove all the play resulting from wear of the pushers, fork eyes and release bearing. As the temperature in the working chamber of the cylinder increases, all parts and working fluid will expand. The pressure in front of the piston will increase, and it will move back a little, opening compensation hole 3, through which excess liquid fluid will flow into the tank.

    This explanation is necessary in order to understand how important it is to monitor the serviceability and cleanliness of the GVC. If the compensation hole in the piston or housing becomes clogged, the temperature inside the cylinder will quickly rise, which will create excess pressure in the master cylinder. It can squeeze out the gaskets and fluid will begin to leak. The pedal will become stiff and the O-rings will wear out faster.

    Location of the GVC

    Since the pusher must be positioned horizontally and fit exactly into its piston, the GCS is mounted on the front partition of the engine compartment on the left side. It is impossible to install it any other way - it is screwed onto two studs welded to the partition. No additional conditions are required to dismantle it. Access to the fastening nuts, pipeline fittings and reservoir hoses is provided by simply lifting the hood lid. At the same time, the main brake cylinder should not be confused with the main brake cylinder (MBC), which is located nearby, a little further from the sidewall of the left wing. The GTS is larger and more complex; more tubes fit into it.

    Installing the clutch master cylinder repair kit

    It is not difficult to determine when it is necessary to repair the master cylinder; the main signs of its malfunction are:

    • Insufficient clutch release (clutch drives)
    • Any type of leakage, whether from under the nuts securing the hose and tubes, or from the end from under the rubber seals
    • Master cylinder stuck in pressed position

    In my situation, the main leak was due to a worn out sealing ring, in other words, fluid flowed down the clutch pedal into the passenger compartment.

    I started the repair by dismantling the reservoir hose, unscrewed the clamp on the main cylinder and quickly removed it from the main cylinder, turned it up and pinched it behind the reservoir cap so that the liquid did not flow out of the reservoir. Next, I unscrewed the tube that goes to the working cylinder, I did this with a special key, it’s a pity there is no photo, but you can buy one without any problems at any auto store. All that remains is to unscrew the main one itself, it is secured with two 13 nuts and remove it from under the hood.

    The boot was removed and it was noticeable that fluid was flowing from here.

    Having picked up the boot with a screwdriver, I saw exactly where the liquid was flowing from; the assumption was absolutely correct.

    Next, you need to wipe the cylinder, remove dirt and rust.

    Attention. Do not use gasoline or similar liquids for washing, as they will very quickly ruin the new rubber bands. To flush the clutch and brake elements, use clean brake fluid.

    After cleaning the dirt, you can begin disassembling. To do this you will need an awl or similar object.

    Next, you need to carefully remove the insides, keeping in mind that the piston is under the action of a spring.

    This is what it looks like

    Next, you need to clean the master cylinder body, you cannot scrape the parts with a screwdriver, sandpaper, etc., this is just in case, I use a rag with brake fluid. In repair manuals, I often came across such expressions that if rips, scratches, etc. appeared on the parts, then it is unusable. But despite all this, practice shows that despite all the risks, provided that a high-quality repair kit is installed, the master cylinder works without problems. I used this kit:

    Repair kit for clutch master cylinder VAZ

    We remove the old rings, clean all the grooves and holes. There should be no dust or debris there.

    The ring is removed, clean the piston, install a new one

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    And by the way, here is the reason for the clutch cylinder leaking:

    The ring is not worn evenly

    After cleaning and replacing the rings, you can assemble the cylinder, below is a photo of what should be there and how:

    Here is a photo not cleaned, I added it here to show the correct assembly

    Having assembled the cylinder, install the corkscrew ring

    Bleeding the clutch on a VAZ 2106

    After the repair has been made, it is necessary to bleed the clutch. In all repair manuals you can find standard instructions for bleeding the clutch, but it may not always help.

    1. The first bleeding option is standard; it consists of filling the tank with liquid, unscrewing the bleeding fitting, putting a hose on the fitting, and lowering the other end into a container with clean liquid. Then, by pressing the pedal, we monitor when the air stops being released, and also do not forget to control the level in the tank.
    2. The second method is to use an assistant - one person presses the pedal 4-6 times and keeps it pressed to the floor. The second unscrews the bleeder fitting; air bubbles should come out of the fitting; as soon as they stop coming out, you need to screw the fitting in and then release the pedal. And so on until normal operation of the pedal is restored and air bubbles stop coming out.
    3. There is also the simplest method of pumping, but which does not always work - to implement it you just need to pour liquid into the reservoir and unscrew the fitting on the working cylinder. The liquid will flow by gravity through the entire system and when it begins to flow steadily out of the fitting, it can be closed and the pumping can be considered complete.

    Selection of GVC for VAZ 2107

    The best option for replacement is to purchase a GCS designed specifically for classic VAZ models. Clutch master cylinders from UAZ, GAZ and AZLK vehicles are not suitable. The same applies to foreign analogues - foreign cars with rear-wheel drive are equipped with GVCs, which only highly qualified specialists can adapt to the VAZ 2107 (different sizes, different threads for pipelines, different pipe configurations). However, you can easily replace the original cylinder with a GCS from a VAZ 2121 and from a Niva-Chevrolet.

    Manufacturer's choice

    When purchasing a new GVC, you should focus on products from trusted Russian manufacturers (AvtoVAZ JSC, Brik LLC, Kedr LLC), the Belarusian company Fenox, which is adapted to our conditions and is affordable. The average cost of GVC is 600–800 rubles.

    Table: comparative characteristics of GVCs from different manufacturers

    Manufacturer, countryTrademarkCost, rub.Reviews
    Russia, TolyattiAvtoVAZ625Original GVCs are made with high quality and are more expensive than analogues
    BelarusFenox510Original GVCs are inexpensive, made with high quality, and are popular among drivers
    Russia, MiassBrick Basalt490Improved design: the absence of a technological plug at the end of the cylinder and the presence of an anti-vacuum cuff increases the reliability of the product
    GermanyAND THOSE1740The originals are of the highest quality. The price is tied to the EURO exchange rate
    GermanyHORT1680Original GCS are reliable and durable in operation. The price is tied to the EURO exchange rate
    Russia, MiassCedar540The original GVCs do not cause any particular complaints

    Recently, there have been many counterfeits of well-known brands on the market. They can be distinguished by their low-quality workmanship and low price relative to their original analogues.

    Purpose, malfunctions and repair of the VAZ 2101 clutch master cylinder

    All classic Zhiguli cars have the same clutch mechanism design. One of the main components in the hydraulic drive system is the clutch master cylinder, through which the release bearing is controlled. The hydraulic drive is replaced when the mechanism breaks down or fails.

    Clutch master cylinder VAZ 2101

    Stable operation of the clutch master cylinder (MCC) has a direct impact on the functioning of the gearbox and its service life, as well as the smoothness of gear shifting. If the hydraulic drive breaks down, control of the gearbox becomes impossible, as does further operation of the vehicle.

    What is it for?

    The main function of the GCS is to briefly disconnect the power unit from the gearbox when changing gears. When you press the pedal, pressure is created in the system, which acts on the clutch fork rod. The latter drives the release bearing, controlling the clutch.

    How it works

    The main components of the node are:

    • outer cuff;
    • sealing collar;
    • union;
    • stock;
    • return spring;
    • frame;
    • case for protection.

    Principle of operation

    The hydraulic clutch consists of two cylinders - the main and the working (GC and RC). The operating principle of the hydraulic drive is based on the following:

    1. Liquid enters the GC through a hose from the tank.
    2. When the clutch pedal is acted upon, the force is transmitted to the rod by a pusher.
    3. The piston in the main center moves out, which leads to the valve closing and compression of the liquid.
    4. After the fluid is compressed in the cylinder, it enters the hydraulic system through a fitting and is supplied to the DC.
    5. The slave cylinder drives the fork, which moves the clutch with the release bearing forward.
    6. The bearing presses on the friction spring of the pressure plate, releasing the driven disk, after which the clutch disengages.
    7. After the pedal is released, the cylinder piston returns to its original position under the influence of the spring.

    Where is

    The GCS on the VAZ 2101 is installed under the hood near the vacuum brake booster and the master cylinder of the brake system. There are also reservoirs near the clutch cylinder: one for the braking system, the other for the hydraulic clutch.

    When is replacement needed?

    The cylinder elements wear out over time, which leads to interruptions in the operation of the mechanism. Repair or replacement of the main circulation system is necessary when the following symptoms appear:

    • airiness of the system;
    • leakage of working fluid;
    • wear of cylinder components.

    The presence of air in the hydraulic drive system disrupts the performance of the system, making its operation impossible. Air can enter the hydraulic drive through microcracks in the sealing elements of the cylinder or in the connecting hoses. If, when checking the system, a constant lack of fluid in the expansion tank is discovered, you need to inspect the entire clutch mechanism, since fluid can leave not only the master cylinder. If the amount of fluid in the hydraulic drive system is insufficient, the required pressure to move the clutch fork will not be able to be generated. This problem will manifest itself in the inability to separate the engine and gearbox when pressing the clutch pedal. If the leak is caused by wear of the connecting hoses, then replacing them does not raise any special issues. If the problem is related to the GCS itself, then the product will have to be dismantled, disassembled and the cause found out, or simply replaced with a new part.

    Which one is better to put

    On the VAZ 2101 it is necessary to install a hydraulic clutch designed for the VAZ 2101–07. Cylinders designed to work in UAZ, GAZ and AZLK vehicles are not suitable for installation on a “penny” car. The situation is similar with imported analogues. It will be quite problematic to introduce a GVC from any foreign car, which is due to different mounting of the unit, different threads and tube configuration. However, a hydraulic drive from a VAZ 2121 or from a Niva-Chevrolet is suitable for the “classic”.

    Manufacturer's choice

    Today there are many companies that manufacture clutch master cylinders. However, when choosing and purchasing the unit in question, preference should be given to the following manufacturers:

    • JSC AvtoVAZ;
    • Brick LLC;
    • Kedr LLC;
    • Fenox;
    • ATE;
    • TRIALLI.

    The average cost of a hydraulic clutch is 500–800 rubles. However, there are products that cost about 1,700 rubles, for example, cylinders from ATE.

    Table: comparison of hydraulic clutch actuators from different manufacturers by price and reviews
    Manufacturer, countryTrademarkCost, rub.Reviews
    Russia, TolyattiAvtoVAZ625Original GVCs are made with high quality and are more expensive than analogues
    BelarusFenox510Original GVCs are inexpensive, made with high quality, and are popular among drivers
    Russia, MiassBrick Basalt490Improved design: the absence of a technological plug at the end of the cylinder and the presence of an anti-vacuum cuff increases the reliability of the product
    GermanyAND THOSE1740The originals are of the highest quality. The price is tied to the EURO exchange rate
    GermanyHORT1680Original GCS are reliable and durable in operation. The price is tied to the EURO exchange rate
    Russia, MiassCedar540The original GVCs do not cause any particular complaints

    Clutch master cylinder repair

    If you do not pay attention to poor clutch performance, then it is likely that the teeth on the gearbox gears will wear out, which will lead to failure of the unit. Repairing the box will require much more time and material investment. Therefore, if signs of malfunctions appear, you should not delay repairs. To work you will need the following tools:

    • key to 10;
    • 13mm socket with extension;
    • screwdriver;
    • 13mm wrench for brake pipes;
    • rubber bulb for pumping out liquid;
    • repair kit for GCS.

    Removal

    We dismantle the cylinder in the following order:

      We unscrew the fastening of the expansion tank of the cooling system, since it blocks access to the hydraulic drive.

    Disassembly

    Tools you need to prepare:

    • key to 22;
    • Phillips or flathead screwdriver.

    We perform the procedure in the following sequence:

    1. We clean the outside of the cylinder from dirt with a wire brush so that during disassembly no debris gets inside.
    2. We clamp the hydraulic drive in a vice, unscrew the plug with a 22mm wrench and remove the spring.

    Do not use metal objects or sandpaper to clean the cylinder body from dirt inside. Only brake fluid and rough cloth can be used. For the final flushing of the unit, we also use brake fluid and nothing else.

    When carrying out repair work on the clutch or brake system cylinders, after disassembling the device, I inspect the internal cavity. There should be no burrs, marks or other damage on the inner walls of the cylinders. Installing new parts from the repair kit will not give any result and the main circulation system will not work correctly if the inner surface has scratches. The same applies to the piston surface. Otherwise, the cylinder will have to be replaced with a new part. If there are no flaws, then the result of the repair will be positive.

    Replacing cuffs

    For any repair of the clutch master cylinder, which involves disassembling it, it is recommended to replace the rubber elements.

    To do this, perform the following steps:

      We pull the cuffs off the piston, prying them up with a screwdriver.

    When installing the cuffs, the matte side of the rubber elements should face the cylinder rod.

    Assembly

    The assembly process is performed in reverse order:

    1. We rinse the internal cavity of the cylinder with clean brake fluid.
    2. Lubricate the cuffs and piston with the same liquid.
    3. We insert the pistons into the cylinder.
    4. We install the retaining ring in place, and insert a spring on the other side of the main center.

    Video: GCS repair on a “classic”

    Bleeding the clutch

    In order to eliminate the possibility of failure of the clutch mechanism, the hydraulic drive system must be pumped after the repair is completed. To carry out the procedure, the car must be placed on an overpass or inspection hole, and the following must be prepared:

    • brake fluid;
    • wrenches for loosening brake pipes;
    • rubber tube of suitable diameter;
    • transparent container.

    What kind of liquid to fill

    For classic Zhiguli cars, the factory recommends using RosDot 4 brake fluid in the hydraulic clutch system. A 0.5 liter container will be sufficient for repairs. The need to fill the fluid may arise not only during repair work, but also when replacing the fluid itself, since over time it loses its properties.

    How to bleed the clutch

    It is better to do the work with an assistant. The liquid level in the tank should be below the neck. We perform the following steps:

    1. We pull one end of the hose onto the fitting of the clutch slave cylinder, and lower the other into the container.
    2. An assistant presses the clutch pedal several times until it becomes tight and holds it down.

    Video: bleeding the clutch on classic Zhiguli cars

    During the pumping process, fluid will leave the clutch reservoir, so its level must be monitored and topped up as necessary.

    To bleed the clutch or brake system, I use a transparent tube, which allows me to visually assess whether there is air in the fluid or not. There are situations when you need to bleed the clutch, but there is no assistant. Then I unscrew the fitting on the clutch slave cylinder, unscrew the reservoir cap and throw a clean cloth, for example, a handkerchief, over its neck, create pressure with my mouth, i.e. I simply blow into the reservoir. I blow it several times to bleed the system and completely remove air from it. I can recommend another fairly simple pumping method, in which the liquid passes through the system by gravity, for which it is enough to unscrew the fitting on the working cylinder and control the liquid level in the tank. When the air is completely released, tighten the fitting.

    Failures of the VAZ 2101 clutch master cylinder are a rare occurrence. If problems do arise, they are associated with damage to the boot or the use of low-quality fluid. If the mechanism malfunctions, you can restore functionality on your own. To carry out repair work, you need to prepare the necessary tools and read the step-by-step instructions, which will eliminate possible mistakes.

    Repair of clutch master cylinder VAZ 2107

    If problems arise with the GVC, it must be removed from the car, disassembled, defects eliminated, assembled and reinstalled. The work can be performed by any car owner with minimal plumbing skills. If you don’t have such skills, it’s easier to change the cylinder assembly. To repair and replace the GCS, you will need the following tools and materials:

    • a set of open-end and ring wrenches;
    • set of heads with ratchet;
    • long thin screwdriver;
    • round nose pliers;
    • 0.5 l of brake fluid ROSA DOT-4;
    • water repellent WD-40;
    • a small container for draining the fuel;
    • bleeding hose;
    • syringe 22–50 ml.

    Dismantling of the main central circulation system

    To dismantle the VAZ 2107 GCS, you will need to perform the following steps:

      Unfasten the expansion tank fastening belt and move it to the side.

    Disassembly of the main central circulation system

    Before disassembling, you need to clean the GCS from dirt, smudges, and dust. The disassembly itself is carried out as follows:

      Clamp the main valve in a vice, use a 22mm wrench to unscrew the plug and pull out the spring that returns the piston to its original position.

    Replacing rubber o-rings

    It is recommended to change the rubber O-rings each time the GCS is disassembled. To do this you need:

      Carefully pry up the O-ring with a screwdriver and pull it out of the groove.

    GCS assembly

    1. Rinse the cylinder mirror with fresh working fluid ROSA DOT-4.
    2. Lubricate the piston and sealing rings with the same liquid.

    Installation of GCS

    Installation of the GCS is carried out in the reverse direction of removal. Pay special attention to the correct installation of the pusher in the piston and uniform tightening of the fastening nuts.

    How to replace the VAZ 2107 clutch master cylinder, diagram, video

    Clutch diagram of the master cylinder VAZ 2107

    In any car model, including the VAZ-2107, regardless of which engine is used in the car - an injector or a carburetor - both all systems and components are important. All owners, without exception, must monitor the serviceability of each element. After all, constant care for your four-wheeled iron friend will help you avoid troubles along the way, and timely repairs will reduce the cost of the replacement and repair process as a whole.

    The clutch master cylinder is necessary to transmit force to the working element. The force is transmitted at the moment the clutch pedal is pressed under the influence of the working fluid.

    It is possible to prevent such an unpleasant situation only if you constantly monitor the operation of the analyzed element and, if necessary, promptly replace the master cylinder on a VAZ-2107 car.

    What reasons will indicate a malfunction?

    The following signs will help you understand that the clutch master cylinder is malfunctioning:

    • a sharp decrease in the level of working fluid in the tank;
    • traces of leaks in the area where the working and main cylinders are located;
    • a kind of “failure” when pressing the clutch pedal;
    • inability to fully press the clutch pedal.

    Among the main types of malfunctions noted by experts, it is worth highlighting the following:

    • malfunction of the cylinder itself;
    • worn cuffs or piston;
    • filling the system with low-quality brake fluid, which may contain both numerous dust particles and an excess of moisture.

    To eliminate the causes of the malfunction of the main element, it is time to use two methods - replace the one that has become unusable with a new one or eliminate a minor breakdown by repairing it yourself. However, it is worth understanding that only rubber cuffs and the body can be repaired, and besides, repairing components will not always give the expected result. It should also be noted that as for the boot, it also needs to be inspected for the presence of large contaminations. According to experts, it is best to completely replace the cylinder, especially since its cost does not exceed 550 rubles.

    Phased replacement

    Step-by-step replacement of the main cylinder is carried out in the following sequence:

    1. Using a medical syringe and a rubber bulb, you need to pump out all the liquid from the hydraulic reservoir.
    2. The expansion tank is removed to simplify the work process.
    3. Using a 13 key, the clamp of the connecting pipe is loosened.
    4. The fastener holding the rubber hose connected to the cylinder reservoir is unscrewed.
    5. Use a 13 key to unscrew the two clamps to remove the unusable element from the studs.
    6. A new one is installed in place of the failed clutch master cylinder, having first cleared the area of ​​debris and dirt.

    At this point, the replacement process can be considered complete, and car owners will only have to assemble all the components in the reverse order.

    A training video and diagram will help to simplify the whole work even more, which you can familiarize yourself with at the most convenient time by visiting the Internet resource for this.

    https://youtube.com/watch?v=pvKxbRTt3QY

    Bleeding the clutch

    After repairing or replacing the VAZ 2107 GCS, the clutch needs to be pumped. This will require an inspection hole or overpass.

    Selecting and filling working fluid

    ROSA DOT-3 or DOT-4 brake fluid is used as the working fluid in the VAZ 2107 hydraulic clutch drive.

    RJ is poured into the GCS tank, located in the engine compartment on the front bulkhead. To correctly fill the system, before filling, you need to loosen the air bleeder fitting on the working cylinder by one or two turns and tighten it after the liquid begins to flow out without gas bubbles. The tank must be filled to the appropriate level.

    Bleeding the hydraulic clutch

    It is advisable to use two people to bleed the hydraulic drive - one presses the clutch pedal, the other unscrews and tightens the air bleeder fitting on the working cylinder, having previously put a hose on it. You will need to do the following:

    1. Press the pedal firmly several times and hold it pressed.
    2. Unscrew the fitting and drain the liquid along with the air.

    Continue the operation until all air has been removed from the clutch hydraulic drive.

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